Faucet leaks above ball assembly when using cold water
When the cold water is on, the water leaks above the ball assembly, and then drains into the cupboard below the sink. It is like the water is not being stopped at all from going where it should not go.
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if you have the ring removed, screw the handle back on and pull up on it,, your leak is probably due to a worn , torn , "O" ring,, and Moen parts are found at most hardware stores ,, ( including Home depot , and Lowes) On Moen faucets , Look for the dent in the flange that squares off,, where that square is on the ring, is where the retainer ring is that holds the faucet in place ..its a "C" clip with a head on it, remove this ring and the assembly should come out , be sure and use plumbers grease when replacing the O rings,, they last much longer that way
The single-handle faucet with a ball inside to control both hot and cold water may either leak at the spigot or at the handle. A handle leak is usually caused by improper adjusting-ring tension. Simply adjust the tension to stop the leak. Leaks at the handle can also result from a worn cam gasket. Dripping from the spigot is usually caused by worn spring-loaded, soft rubber seat assemblies.
Parts for ball-type faucets are available in kits. Get the spring/seats kit for spigot leaks, or the complete kit for handle leaks. It may be advisable to use the complete kit to replace all working parts of the faucet at the same time. In any case, you'll need a kit containing the spanner/hex wrench for removing the handle (hex end) and turning the adjusting ring (spanner end).
Without turning the water off, loosen the handle set screw. Slide the handle from its stem.
For a handle leak, try using the spanner wrench to tighten the adjusting collar. Tighten it by turning the wrench and collar clockwise until the faucet doesn't leak when it is turned on and off. If the adjustment is too loose, the faucet will leak. If you turn it too tight, the handle will be hard to move. When the adjusting ring cannot be turned with the wrench, it is corroded. At this point, you will need to remove the cap to free the adjusting ring. (See next step.) You must turn the water off before removing the cap! Apply penetrating oil to the threads, remove the ring and clean all parts before reassembling.
Install the seats. For faucet leaks at the spigot, you must install new rubber seats and springs. You must turn off the water to make this repair. Unscrew the chrome cap by turning it counterclockwise. If it won't turn easily, wrap electrical tape around the cap and turn it with pliers. The adjusting ring, which is threaded into the cap's center, will come off with it. For a seats/springs replacement, pull the ball up and out by its stem. The gasketed cam will come with it. Now you can locate the two rubber seats and springs inside the faucet body. Remove them with pliers or yours fingers and install the new ones. The springs go into the holes first, and the cupped sides of the seats fit over the springs.
Service the ball. If the ball is dirty or coated with scale, clean it or replace it with a new one. Both plastic and brass balls are available, but use a plastic one if your home has hard water.
Reassembly. Put the ball and cam back into the faucet with the slot in the side if the ball fitting over the pin in the faucet body. Then make sure the tab on the cam slips down into the notch in the body. Not aligning the tab and notch is the number one cause for a faucet leaking after it is repaired. Finally, screw on the cap and adjust the ring as described in Step 2. If a properly adjusted ball-type faucet leaks at the cap, the cam and gasket must be replaced.
Swing spouts. If a single-lever ball faucet leaks at the base, you should replace the O-rings. Remove the spout-retaining parts, as well as the spout. Wrap the spout-retaining nut with electrical tape to protect it, and remove the nut with a wrench or pliers by turning counterclockwise. Remove the spout by pulling it up and side-to-side. One or more O-rings should now be exposed. Take the O-rings to your hardware or home center store to get matching O-rings for replacement. Clean any scale that appears on the spout base, faucet body, and the inside of the swinging spout. Install the new O-rings and reverse the steps above to reassemble the faucet.
Disc faucets may have one or two handles. The water is controlled by openings in the two discs. When the discs are rotated to align, the water flows; when the discs are misaligned, the water shuts off. If the discs wear, the worn discs cause the faucet to leak. Simply turning the handles harder will not stop the leak.
To repair a leak in a two-handle disc faucet, turn off the water and remove the handle on the side that's leaking.
Use pliers to pull the disc assembly out of the faucet.
Beneath the disc unit is the seat assembly, or seal. Replacing this special O-ring may stop the leak.
You may need to install a whole new disc assembly for faucets that have been used over a long period of time. In this case, all moving parts of the faucet will have been replaced and should last as long as the original discs did. The parts of some disc units snap apart into a separate bonnet assembly and bottom cap.
To repair a leaking single-handle disc, turn off both the hot and cold water and remove the handle to expose the disc assembly. Take out the screws to lift the assembly out of the faucet.
You'll notice that beneath the disc unit are three O-ring seals. Though unlikely, water could be leaking between the unit and one of these seals. In this case, you may be able to stop the leak by cleaning the disc assembly and faucet body and installing a new set of seals. If that doesn't work, the entire disc unit must be replaced. This will renew all moving parts.
Replacing the unit is fairly simple. Place the three O-rings into their recesses in the bottom of the disc unit. Then install the unit and tighten the screws. Finally, replace the handle–and you're done!
It sounds like two problems. Problem 1) Clog inside faucet or clog inside pipes at faucet Remove supply tubes leading to faucet and see if problem is inside pipes or inside faucet. My bet is clog inside faucet.
Problem 2) Water heater leak ... you say tank valve is leaking? Is that cold-water shut-off valve? Or tank drain valve? Or TP valve?
If cold water shut-off is leaking, then replace shut off.
If tank drain valve is leaking, then check if plastic valve is cracked. If drain valve is cracked, then replace with a brass valve from Home Depot. If plastic valve breaks off, then use hammer and screwdriver to gently chip out the broken plastic valve. New valve threads need teflon tape to seal pipe. If valve is just dripping, then put garden-hose cap over end of valve and screw down tight.
If TP valve is leaking, then replace with same temperature and pressure rating. New TP valve threads need teflon tape to seal pipe. Problem 3) If pressure is low all over house: Buy pressure gauge at hardware store that screws onto hose connection.
Test pressure on outdoor spigot. Open faucet and check if pressure drops. This says if problem is inside pipes that enter house.
Test pressure on water heater drain valve. This says if pressure problem is before -or- after water heater.
If problem is before the water heater, then shut-off valve located on cold water line is suspect. If problem is after water heater, it could be in hot water outflow pipe on top of water heater, or a nearby elbow. Remove hot water line leading from water heater and check pressure. This says if problem is where hot water leaves tank. Read articles above about clogs inside water lines.
moen does not have a ball and washers....sounds like a Delta maybe. Moen uses cartridges. Either way sounds like a balancing spool problem....but you will need to make sure of the right name for the faucet to get the parts.
Remove hot/cold button in handle, remove screw/pull off handle. Remove the two screws in the wall plate/remove plate. Use a wrench to remove the diverter assembly. Get new diverter assy and reinstall eveything. You don't need to turn off the water.
Turn the water off at the faucet, remove the handle and the retaining nut that is apart of the trim. You will see where you can use a wrench to remove it. The ball assembly will come right out and you can replace the washers right below it. Put it back together and if needed, tighten the tension ring that is on the retaining nut (usually grey or white in color) so it won't leak water around the ball stem. Good luck.