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My ge wprb8050 makes loud noise on spin cycle. I've replaced the tub bearing and agitator/coupler. Any ideas?

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 12 Answers

SOURCE: My Capacity Plus Admiral Washer will spin and agitate, but it makes a loud grinding noise.

Well, Sounds to me like the Bearings are going out, but it could make that noise a good while, before it goes completely out.. Replacement would possably be more cost effective, Kinda hard to beleive !!!!!!

Posted on Oct 26, 2008

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: GE washer (wjsr4160gww) makes loud noise during spin cycle

Remove the front panel and you will see two metal guides attached to the front of the frame. One of them will probably be bent and the transmission assembly will have jumped over one or the other of the guides. You need to manually pull it back to center then straighten the bent guide. May have been caused by load being out of balance or machine not properly leveled. Good luck.

Posted on Mar 12, 2009

  • 57 Answers

SOURCE: when entering spin cycle, making a loud noise. I

Check your belt it may be lose. A lose belt will cause a squealing noise and the machine spin slower or take time to come up to full speed

Posted on Oct 09, 2009

marka19
  • 1430 Answers

SOURCE: No agitation or spin and motor seems to make a loud "ticking"

This is usually caused by the motor coupler. This is very inexpensive and easy to replace. To watch a free video on how to check and replace this part go to www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html this will walk you thru this. It may be a different model but the troubleshooting and replacement will be the same. You can also enter your model # for your specific model to get diagrams and illustrations.

Posted on Apr 02, 2010

oldTech2332
  • 2341 Answers

SOURCE: GE PROFILE wprb8050. agitator will not spin. I

Hello,

If you can easily spin that agaitor coupler free by hand..its stripped and needs to be replaced. The part number for it is WH49X10042 it could be purchased at your local appliance parts store or online at;
searspartsdirect.com
apdepot.com
partselect.com
apwanger.com
repairclinic.com

GENE

Posted on Aug 30, 2011

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My ge washer is making a scraping noise when it agitates i did not hear the noise when it first started what could be wrong with it now please answer ASAP!!!!!!!! (AGGERAVATING!!!!!!) THANKS.


LOUD NOISES IN washing MACHINE;

LOT OF THINGS TO CHECK, THE BELT LOOSE OR WORN, THE CLUTCH, THE TRANNY, THE BEARINGS BOTH TUB SEAL AND BEARING, DRIVE BLOCK, THE REAR DRUM BEARING, the balance or counter weights.

THE DRIVE PULLEY- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it.
THE TRANSMISSION, THE MOTOR COUPLER, THE MOTOR DRIVE BEARINGS,
THE DRIVE MOTOR- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced.

The drive coupling connects the motor to the transmission and consists of two plastic drive forks with a rubber coupling between them. One of the drive forks is attached to the drive motor shaft and the other is attached to the transmission input shaft. As the motor shaft rotates, the rubber coupling between the drive forks absorbs the torque to prevent the forks from breaking. Normal use will create wear on the coupling and eventually the drive forks may slip and cause a vibrating noise. If the transmission seizes or if the spin basket cannot turn freely, then the coupling may fail and again you may experience a vibrating noise. Most models will require you to remove the cabinet to access the drive coupler. Disconnect power from the appliance before attempting any repairs.

A worn drive block will usually have a pounding sound, like hammering metal, during spin when it first starts. If there is enough interlocking tab left on the drive block, you'll see it finally engage at top speed with an empty basket.

In a transmission lock up the holes get enlarged in the rubber isolator and the studs break off the motor and transmission couplers. This is usually caused by the abrupt motor reversal between the agitate and pump out functions. If you hear a loud bang every time the motor reverses, the coupler is getting loose. An obvious sign of a failed coupler is a pile of black rubber shavings under the washer. If the motor runs and the agitate and spin functions don't work, the studs may have broken off the coupler (old coupler design) or the coupler may have broken at the shaft (new design) and you need a new coupler kit. The coupler can also just crack around its center hole allowing it to slip on the motor or transmission shaft hampering those functions.

If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced.

Front load washers often use a self contained electric drain pump and the motor may be worn or damaged and require the complete pump to be replaced. Remove any foreign objects or replace the worn or damaged pump, thencarefully tighten the hose clamps and check for leaks before installing the cabinet or front panel.

All front-load washing machines have shock absorbers that are used to dampen the tub movement in the spin cycle. The shock absorbers or struts are attached to the base frame and to the outer tub and you will need to remove the front panel or the rear panel to access them. When shock absorbers weaken or become damaged, the machine will often make a loud banging sound during the spin cycle and if the symptom is not corrected, can lead to damage of other components. Inspect the shocks for signs of broken attachments, leaked fluids or a weakened dampening action and replace both shocks if worn. Remove power from the appliance before attempting this repair.

Some models of top-load washers use tub dampening straps to cushion the movement of the tub during the spin cycle. There are four straps attached to the top of the tub and to each corner of the cabinet

Also There are four suspension rods that suspend the tub and allow the tub to free float. If the suspension rods are noisy, there will be a squeaking noise during wash. You can fix this by putting bearing (lithium base) grease in the cup that each rod rests in. If it continues to squeal replace all four rods the cups come with the rods, replace them as well.

If your washer has a loud banging noise during spin the balance weight may be loose. This weight is to counter act the weight of the motor so you will find the weight directly behind the motor. Sometimes simply tightening the bolts will fix your issue but if the bolts are stripped out get some bolts slightly longer than the original bolt to allow you to put a locking nut on the bottom side of the mounting plate. If the weight is broken replace it.

Another noise issue can arise from a worn SNUBBER RING on some washers that have a snubber like some Maytags, if u notice tiny pc's of white/grey shavings on the floor or around the bottom washer area? A sign of bad snubber. When removing to replace be careful as the spring underneath is pressure loaded.

A very similiar sound can be produced when the belt is worn but the difference is that a snubber noise can be produced during the spin cycle or when the cycle has finished and the spin tub is coasting to a stop. A worn belt noise can only be produced while the motor is actively engaged in spinning the spin tub. If it is discovered that the belt is worn and the base has black, shredded belt residue then it may not necessary to clean it out (belt residue generally will not cause a problem with the snubber). It will be necessary however, to find the cause of the belt failure.


Lastly Washer vibration can be caused by a broken counter balance spring. Ur washer may be equipped with one or more counter balance springs which help to absorb the natural movement of the spinning tub. If a counter balance spring fails the tub might lean in one direction more than another and it will shake and cause vibration.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

GRINDING NOISES:

The plastic drive is known as a splutch (splined clutch). One problem with these washers has been loosening of the nut that locks the pulley to the agitator input shaft. If it gets loose, the pulley drops and the teeth no longer have good contact with the teeth of the splutch basket drive gear in spin mode. The solution is application of blue locktite to the threads of the input shaft. There have also been a lot of failures of the actuator that operates the cam ring of the splutch which raises and lowers the basket drive gear. It is raised for agitate mode and lowered for spin. There is a spring between the basket drive gear and the gearcase housing that maintains pressure on the basket drive gear. There are cams on the cam ring that ride up and down on cams in the splutch cam (housing) as it is rotated by the actuator thus raising and lowering the basket drive gear. The gearcase has a planetary gear set in it.
One Way To Test For Spin Bearing Noise Is To Lift Up Top Part Of Machine With The Lid Taped Down, Explained Below, Put It In Spin Cycle, AndQuicklyPlace The Palms Of Your Hand Inside Of Basket Pushing Against Opposite Ends In The Basket To Stop It From Turning, Yes It Can Be Done Because It Takes A While Before It Starts Spinning At Full Speed, If Noise Has Gone Away, Its Your Spinner Bearing. Do Not Repeat Until You Stopped The Machine And Start Over Again. The Same Kind Of Noise Can Also Be A Bad Water Pump, Which Are Known To Fail And Have Since Been Redesigned, But That Noise Will Be Heard In Spin And Agitate Mode, And The Noise Will Have A Higher Pitch Sound, More Like A Screeching Sound.








Apr 14, 2017 | GE Washing Machines

1 Answer

My ge washing machine is 4 years old and has bee making a loud banging sound while in use it has also bee spouting water from the bottom while washing what advise can you give me to have this fix


LOUD NOISES IN washing MACHINE;

LOT OF THINGS TO CHECK, THE BELT LOOSE OR WORN, THE CLUTCH, THE TRANNY, THE BEARINGS BOTH TUB SEAL AND BEARING, DRIVE BLOCK, THE REAR DRUM BEARING, the balance or counter weights.

THE DRIVE PULLEY- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it.
THE TRANSMISSION, THE MOTOR COUPLER, THE MOTOR DRIVE BEARINGS,
THE DRIVE MOTOR- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced.

The drive coupling connects the motor to the transmission and consists of two plastic drive forks with a rubber coupling between them. One of the drive forks is attached to the drive motor shaft and the other is attached to the transmission input shaft. As the motor shaft rotates, the rubber coupling between the drive forks absorbs the torque to prevent the forks from breaking. Normal use will create wear on the coupling and eventually the drive forks may slip and cause a vibrating noise. If the transmission seizes or if the spin basket cannot turn freely, then the coupling may fail and again you may experience a vibrating noise. Most models will require you to remove the cabinet to access the drive coupler. Disconnect power from the appliance before attempting any repairs.

A worn drive block will usually have a pounding sound, like hammering metal, during spin when it first starts. If there is enough interlocking tab left on the drive block, you'll see it finally engage at top speed with an empty basket.

In a transmission lock up the holes get enlarged in the rubber isolator and the studs break off the motor and transmission couplers. This is usually caused by the abrupt motor reversal between the agitate and pump out functions. If you hear a loud bang every time the motor reverses, the coupler is getting loose. An obvious sign of a failed coupler is a pile of black rubber shavings under the washer. If the motor runs and the agitate and spin functions don't work, the studs may have broken off the coupler (old coupler design) or the coupler may have broken at the shaft (new design) and you need a new coupler kit. The coupler can also just crack around its center hole allowing it to slip on the motor or transmission shaft hampering those functions.

If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced.

Front load washers often use a self contained electric drain pump and the motor may be worn or damaged and require the complete pump to be replaced. Remove any foreign objects or replace the worn or damaged pump, thencarefully tighten the hose clamps and check for leaks before installing the cabinet or front panel.

All front-load washing machines have shock absorbers that are used to dampen the tub movement in the spin cycle. The shock absorbers or struts are attached to the base frame and to the outer tub and you will need to remove the front panel or the rear panel to access them. When shock absorbers weaken or become damaged, the machine will often make a loud banging sound during the spin cycle and if the symptom is not corrected, can lead to damage of other components. Inspect the shocks for signs of broken attachments, leaked fluids or a weakened dampening action and replace both shocks if worn. Remove power from the appliance before attempting this repair.

Some models of top-load washers use tub dampening straps to cushion the movement of the tub during the spin cycle. There are four straps attached to the top of the tub and to each corner of the cabinet

Also There are four suspension rods that suspend the tub and allow the tub to free float. If the suspension rods are noisy, there will be a squeaking noise during wash. You can fix this by putting bearing (lithium base) grease in the cup that each rod rests in. If it continues to squeal replace all four rods the cups come with the rods, replace them as well.

If your washer has a loud banging noise during spin the balance weight may be loose. This weight is to counter act the weight of the motor so you will find the weight directly behind the motor. Sometimes simply tightening the bolts will fix your issue but if the bolts are stripped out get some bolts slightly longer than the original bolt to allow you to put a locking nut on the bottom side of the mounting plate. If the weight is broken replace it.

Another noise issue can arise from a worn SNUBBER RING on some washers that have a snubber like some Maytags, if u notice tiny pc's of white/grey shavings on the floor or around the bottom washer area? A sign of bad snubber. When removing to replace be careful as the spring underneath is pressure loaded.

A very similiar sound can be produced when the belt is worn but the difference is that a snubber noise can be produced during the spin cycle or when the cycle has finished and the spin tub is coasting to a stop. A worn belt noise can only be produced while the motor is actively engaged in spinning the spin tub. If it is discovered that the belt is worn and the base has black, shredded belt residue then it may not necessary to clean it out (belt residue generally will not cause a problem with the snubber). It will be necessary however, to find the cause of the belt failure.


Lastly Washer vibration can be caused by a broken counter balance spring. Ur washer may be equipped with one or more counter balance springs which help to absorb the natural movement of the spinning tub. If a counter balance spring fails the tub might lean in one direction more than another and it will shake and cause vibration.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

GRINDING NOISES:

The plastic drive is known as a splutch (splined clutch). One problem with these washers has been loosening of the nut that locks the pulley to the agitator input shaft. If it gets loose, the pulley drops and the teeth no longer have good contact with the teeth of the splutch basket drive gear in spin mode. The solution is application of blue locktite to the threads of the input shaft. There have also been a lot of failures of the actuator that operates the cam ring of the splutch which raises and lowers the basket drive gear. It is raised for agitate mode and lowered for spin. There is a spring between the basket drive gear and the gearcase housing that maintains pressure on the basket drive gear. There are cams on the cam ring that ride up and down on cams in the splutch cam (housing) as it is rotated by the actuator thus raising and lowering the basket drive gear. The gearcase has a planetary gear set in it.






Jan 14, 2017 | GE Washing Machines

1 Answer

Grinding noises


LOUD NOISES IN washing MACHINE;

LOT OF THINGS TO CHECK, THE BELT LOOSE OR WORN, THE CLUTCH, THE TRANNY, THE BEARINGS BOTH TUB SEAL AND BEARING, THE REAR DRUM BEARING, the balance or counter weights.

THE DRIVE PULLEY- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it.
THE TRANSMISSION, THE MOTOR COUPLER, THE MOTOR DRIVE BEARINGS,
THE DRIVE MOTOR- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced.

The drive coupling connects the motor to the transmission and consists of two plastic drive forks with a rubber coupling between them. One of the drive forks is attached to the drive motor shaft and the other is attached to the transmission input shaft. As the motor shaft rotates, the rubber coupling between the drive forks absorbs the torque to prevent the forks from breaking. Normal use will create wear on the coupling and eventually the drive forks may slip and cause a vibrating noise. If the transmission seizes or if the spin basket cannot turn freely, then the coupling may fail and again you may experience a vibrating noise. Most models will require you to remove the cabinet to access the drive coupler. Disconnect power from the appliance before attempting any repairs.

A worn drive block will usually have a pounding sound, like hammering metal, during spin when it first starts. If there is enough interlocking tab left on the drive block, you'll see it finally engage at top speed with an empty basket.

In a transmission lock up the holes get enlarged in the rubber isolator and the studs break off the motor and transmission couplers. This is usually caused by the abrupt motor reversal between the agitate and pump out functions. If you hear a loud bang every time the motor reverses, the coupler is getting loose. An obvious sign of a failed coupler is a pile of black rubber shavings under the washer. If the motor runs and the agitate and spin functions don't work, the studs may have broken off the coupler (old coupler design) or the coupler may have broken at the shaft (new design) and you need a new coupler kit. The coupler can also just crack around its center hole allowing it to slip on the motor or transmission shaft hampering those functions.



If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced.

Front load washers often use a self contained electric drain pump and the motor may be worn or damaged and require the complete pump to be replaced. Remove any foreign objects or replace the worn or damaged pump, thencarefully tighten the hose clamps and check for leaks before installing the cabinet or front panel.

All front-load washing machines have shock absorbers that are used to dampen the tub movement in the spin cycle. The shock absorbers or struts are attached to the base frame and to the outer tub and you will need to remove the front panel or the rear panel to access them. When shock absorbers weaken or become damaged, the machine will often make a loud banging sound during the spin cycle and if the symptom is not corrected, can lead to damage of other components. Inspect the shocks for signs of broken attachments, leaked fluids or a weakened dampening action and replace both shocks if worn. Remove power from the appliance before attempting this repair.

Some models of top-load washers use tub dampening straps to cushion the movement of the tub during the spin cycle. There are four straps attached to the top of the tub and to each corner of the cabinet

Also There are four suspension rods that suspend the tub and allow the tub to free float. If the suspension rods are noisy, there will be a squeaking noise during wash. You can fix this by putting bearing (lithium base) grease in the cup that each rod rests in. If it continues to squeal replace all four rods the cups come with the rods, replace them as well.

If your washer has a loud banging noise during spin the balance weight may be loose. This weight is to counter act the weight of the motor so you will find the weight directly behind the motor. Sometimes simply tightening the bolts will fix your issue but if the bolts are stripped out get some bolts slightly longer than the original bolt to allow you to put a locking nut on the bottom side of the mounting plate. If the weight is broken replace it.

Lastly Washer vibration can be caused by a broken counter balance spring. Ur washer may be equipped with one or more counter balance springs which help to absorb the natural movement of the spinning tub. If a counter balance spring fails the tub might lean in one direction more than another and it will shake and cause vibration.




Apr 19, 2015 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

My machine is 2 months old and makes a horrible thumping noise during the spin cycle. Also the fabric softener compartment won't drain water


Ugh the thumping noise during spin may mean bad agitator spindle where the splines have been damaged or perhaps a damaged transmission spline, at other times it could be due to bad counter weights . check below

LOUD NOISES IN washing MACHINE;

LOT OF THINGS TO CHECK, THE BELT LOOSE OR WORN, THE CLUTCH, THE TRANNY, THE BEARINGS BOTH TUB SEAL AND BEARING, THE REAR DRUM BEARING, the balance or counter weights.

THE DRIVE PULLEY- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it.
THE TRANSMISSION, THE MOTOR COUPLER, THE MOTOR DRIVE BEARINGS,
THE DRIVE MOTOR- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced.

The drive coupling connects the motor to the transmission and consists of two plastic drive forks with a rubber coupling between them. One of the drive forks is attached to the drive motor shaft and the other is attached to the transmission input shaft. As the motor shaft rotates, the rubber coupling between the drive forks absorbs the torque to prevent the forks from breaking. Normal use will create wear on the coupling and eventually the drive forks may slip and cause a vibrating noise. If the transmission seizes or if the spin basket cannot turn freely, then the coupling may fail and again you may experience a vibrating noise. Most models will require you to remove the cabinet to access the drive coupler. Disconnect power from the appliance before attempting any repairs.

A worn drive block will usually have a pounding sound, like hammering metal, during spin when it first starts. If there is enough interlocking tab left on the drive block, you'll see it finally engage at top speed with an empty basket.

In a transmission lock up the holes get enlarged in the rubber isolator and the studs break off the motor and transmission couplers. This is usually caused by the abrupt motor reversal between the agitate and pump out functions. If you hear a loud bang every time the motor reverses, the coupler is getting loose. An obvious sign of a failed coupler is a pile of black rubber shavings under the washer. If the motor runs and the agitate and spin functions don't work, the studs may have broken off the coupler (old coupler design) or the coupler may have broken at the shaft (new design) and you need a new coupler kit. The coupler can also just crack around its center hole allowing it to slip on the motor or transmission shaft hampering those functions.



If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced.

Front load washers often use a self contained electric drain pump and the motor may be worn or damaged and require the complete pump to be replaced. Remove any foreign objects or replace the worn or damaged pump, thencarefully tighten the hose clamps and check for leaks before installing the cabinet or front panel.

All front-load washing machines have shock absorbers that are used to dampen the tub movement in the spin cycle. The shock absorbers or struts are attached to the base frame and to the outer tub and you will need to remove the front panel or the rear panel to access them. When shock absorbers weaken or become damaged, the machine will often make a loud banging sound during the spin cycle and if the symptom is not corrected, can lead to damage of other components. Inspect the shocks for signs of broken attachments, leaked fluids or a weakened dampening action and replace both shocks if worn. Remove power from the appliance before attempting this repair.

Some models of top-load washers use tub dampening straps to cushion the movement of the tub during the spin cycle. There are four straps attached to the top of the tub and to each corner of the cabinet

Also There are four suspension rods that suspend the tub and allow the tub to free float. If the suspension rods are noisy, there will be a squeaking noise during wash. You can fix this by putting bearing (lithium base) grease in the cup that each rod rests in. If it continues to squeal replace all four rods the cups come with the rods, replace them as well.

If your washer has a loud banging noise during spin the balance weight may be loose. This weight is to counter act the weight of the motor so you will find the weight directly behind the motor. Sometimes simply tightening the bolts will fix your issue but if the bolts are stripped out get some bolts slightly longer than the original bolt to allow you to put a locking nut on the bottom side of the mounting plate. If the weight is broken replace it.

Lastly Washer vibration can be caused by a broken counter balance spring. Ur washer may be equipped with one or more counter balance springs which help to absorb the natural movement of the spinning tub. If a counter balance spring fails the tub might lean in one direction more than another and it will shake and cause vibration.



Mar 29, 2015 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

My Whirlpool Estate topload washer agitator will not spin in spin cycle & makes grinding noise


No spin, try these:

Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically.

Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand.


Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either)

Next check for a loose, worn or broken belt if belt driven.

On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly.
The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.

LOT OF THINGS TO CHECK, THE BELT LOOSE OR WORN, THE CLUTCH, THE TRANNY, THE BEARINGS BOTH TUB SEAL AND BEARING, THE REAR DRUM BEARING, the balance or counter weights.

THE DRIVE PULLEY- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it.
THE TRANSMISSION, THE MOTOR COUPLER, THE MOTOR DRIVE BEARINGS,
THE DRIVE MOTOR- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced.

Jul 09, 2014 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

1 Answer

Viking washer grinding noise on spin cycle


LOUD NOISES IN washing MACHINE;

LOT OF THINGS TO CHECK, THE BELT LOOSE OR WORN, THE CLUTCH, THE TRANNY, THE BEARINGS BOTH TUB SEAL AND BEARING, THE REAR DRUM BEARING, the balance or counter weights.

THE DRIVE PULLEY- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it.
THE TRANSMISSION, THE MOTOR COUPLER, THE MOTOR DRIVE BEARINGS,
THE DRIVE MOTOR- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced.

The drive coupling connects the motor to the transmission and consists of two plastic drive forks with a rubber coupling between them. One of the drive forks is attached to the drive motor shaft and the other is attached to the transmission input shaft. As the motor shaft rotates, the rubber coupling between the drive forks absorbs the torque to prevent the forks from breaking. Normal use will create wear on the coupling and eventually the drive forks may slip and cause a vibrating noise. If the transmission seizes or if the spin basket cannot turn freely, then the coupling may fail and again you may experience a vibrating noise. Most models will require you to remove the cabinet to access the drive coupler. Disconnect power from the appliance before attempting any repairs.

A worn drive block will usually have a pounding sound, like hammering metal, during spin when it first starts. If there is enough interlocking tab left on the drive block, you'll see it finally engage at top speed with an empty basket.

In a transmission lock up the holes get enlarged in the rubber isolator and the studs break off the motor and transmission couplers. This is usually caused by the abrupt motor reversal between the agitate and pump out functions. If you hear a loud bang every time the motor reverses, the coupler is getting loose. An obvious sign of a failed coupler is a pile of black rubber shavings under the washer. If the motor runs and the agitate and spin functions don't work, the studs may have broken off the coupler (old coupler design) or the coupler may have broken at the shaft (new design) and you need a new coupler kit. The coupler can also just crack around its center hole allowing it to slip on the motor or transmission shaft hampering those functions.

If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced.

Front load washers often use a self contained electric drain pump and the motor may be worn or damaged and require the complete pump to be replaced. Remove any foreign objects or replace the worn or damaged pump, thencarefully tighten the hose clamps and check for leaks before installing the cabinet or front panel.

All front-load washing machines have shock absorbers that are used to dampen the tub movement in the spin cycle. The shock absorbers or struts are attached to the base frame and to the outer tub and you will need to remove the front panel or the rear panel to access them. When shock absorbers weaken or become damaged, the machine will often make a loud banging sound during the spin cycle and if the symptom is not corrected, can lead to damage of other components. Inspect the shocks for signs of broken attachments, leaked fluids or a weakened dampening action and replace both shocks if worn. Remove power from the appliance before attempting this repair.

Some models of top-load washers use tub dampening straps to cushion the movement of the tub during the spin cycle. There are four straps attached to the top of the tub and to each corner of the cabinet

Also There are four suspension rods that suspend the tub and allow the tub to free float. If the suspension rods are noisy, there will be a squeaking noise during wash. You can fix this by putting bearing (lithium base) grease in the cup that each rod rests in. If it continues to squeal replace all four rods the cups come with the rods, replace them as well.

If your washer has a loud banging noise during spin the balance weight may be loose. This weight is to counter act the weight of the motor so you will find the weight directly behind the motor. Sometimes simply tightening the bolts will fix your issue but if the bolts are stripped out get some bolts slightly longer than the original bolt to allow you to put a locking nut on the bottom side of the mounting plate. If the weight is broken replace it.

Lastly Washer vibration can be caused by a broken counter balance spring. Ur washer may be equipped with one or more counter balance springs which help to absorb the natural movement of the spinning tub. If a counter balance spring fails the tub might lean in one direction more than another and it will shake and cause vibration.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

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Apr 16, 2014 | Viking Ovens

1 Answer

Loud noise on spin cycle


LOUD NOISES IN washing MACHINE;

LOT OF THINGS TO CHECK, THE BELT LOOSE OR WORN, THE CLUTCH, THE TRANNY, THE BEARINGS BOTH TUB SEAL AND BEARING, THE REAR DRUM BEARING, the balance or counter weights.

THE DRIVE PULLEY- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it.
THE TRANSMISSION, THE MOTOR COUPLER, THE MOTOR DRIVE BEARINGS,
THE DRIVE MOTOR- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced.

The drive coupling connects the motor to the transmission and consists of two plastic drive forks with a rubber coupling between them. One of the drive forks is attached to the drive motor shaft and the other is attached to the transmission input shaft. As the motor shaft rotates, the rubber coupling between the drive forks absorbs the torque to prevent the forks from breaking. Normal use will create wear on the coupling and eventually the drive forks may slip and cause a vibrating noise. If the transmission seizes or if the spin basket cannot turn freely, then the coupling may fail and again you may experience a vibrating noise. Most models will require you to remove the cabinet to access the drive coupler. Disconnect power from the appliance before attempting any repairs.

A worn drive block will usually have a pounding sound, like hammering metal, during spin when it first starts. If there is enough interlocking tab left on the drive block, you'll see it finally engage at top speed with an empty basket.

In a transmission lock up the holes get enlarged in the rubber isolator and the studs break off the motor and transmission couplers. This is usually caused by the abrupt motor reversal between the agitate and pump out functions. If you hear a loud bang every time the motor reverses, the coupler is getting loose. An obvious sign of a failed coupler is a pile of black rubber shavings under the washer. If the motor runs and the agitate and spin functions don't work, the studs may have broken off the coupler (old coupler design) or the coupler may have broken at the shaft (new design) and you need a new coupler kit. The coupler can also just crack around its center hole allowing it to slip on the motor or transmission shaft hampering those functions.

If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced.

Front load washers often use a self contained electric drain pump and the motor may be worn or damaged and require the complete pump to be replaced. Remove any foreign objects or replace the worn or damaged pump, thencarefully tighten the hose clamps and check for leaks before installing the cabinet or front panel.

All front-load washing machines have shock absorbers that are used to dampen the tub movement in the spin cycle. The shock absorbers or struts are attached to the base frame and to the outer tub and you will need to remove the front panel or the rear panel to access them. When shock absorbers weaken or become damaged, the machine will often make a loud banging sound during the spin cycle and if the symptom is not corrected, can lead to damage of other components. Inspect the shocks for signs of broken attachments, leaked fluids or a weakened dampening action and replace both shocks if worn. Remove power from the appliance before attempting this repair.

Some models of top-load washers use tub dampening straps to cushion the movement of the tub during the spin cycle. There are four straps attached to the top of the tub and to each corner of the cabinet

Also There are four suspension rods that suspend the tub and allow the tub to free float. If the suspension rods are noisy, there will be a squeaking noise during wash. You can fix this by putting bearing (lithium base) grease in the cup that each rod rests in. If it continues to squeal replace all four rods the cups come with the rods, replace them as well.

If your washer has a loud banging noise during spin the balance weight may be loose. This weight is to counter act the weight of the motor so you will find the weight directly behind the motor. Sometimes simply tightening the bolts will fix your issue but if the bolts are stripped out get some bolts slightly longer than the original bolt to allow you to put a locking nut on the bottom side of the mounting plate. If the weight is broken replace it.

Lastly Washer vibration can be caused by a broken counter balance spring. Ur washer may be equipped with one or more counter balance springs which help to absorb the natural movement of the spinning tub. If a counter balance spring fails the tub might lean in one direction more than another and it will shake and cause vibration.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!






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Jan 02, 2014 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

I have a LG WM3987HW combo washer dryer that is also making the roaring noise on spin cycle


LOUD NOISES IN washing MACHINE;

LOT OF THINGS TO CHECK, THE BELT LOOSE OR WORN, THE CLUTCH, THE TRANNY, THE BEARINGS BOTH TUB SEAL AND BEARING, THE REAR DRUM BEARING, the balance or counter weights.

THE DRIVE PULLEY- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it.
THE TRANSMISSION, THE MOTOR COUPLER, THE MOTOR DRIVE BEARINGS,
THE DRIVE MOTOR- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced.

The drive coupling connects the motor to the transmission and consists of two plastic drive forks with a rubber coupling between them. One of the drive forks is attached to the drive motor shaft and the other is attached to the transmission input shaft. As the motor shaft rotates, the rubber coupling between the drive forks absorbs the torque to prevent the forks from breaking. Normal use will create wear on the coupling and eventually the drive forks may slip and cause a vibrating noise. If the transmission seizes or if the spin basket cannot turn freely, then the coupling may fail and again you may experience a vibrating noise. Most models will require you to remove the cabinet to access the drive coupler. Disconnect power from the appliance before attempting any repairs.

A worn drive block will usually have a pounding sound, like hammering metal, during spin when it first starts. If there is enough interlocking tab left on the drive block, you'll see it finally engage at top speed with an empty basket.

In a transmission lock up the holes get enlarged in the rubber isolator and the studs break off the motor and transmission couplers. This is usually caused by the abrupt motor reversal between the agitate and pump out functions. If you hear a loud bang every time the motor reverses, the coupler is getting loose. An obvious sign of a failed coupler is a pile of black rubber shavings under the washer. If the motor runs and the agitate and spin functions don't work, the studs may have broken off the coupler (old coupler design) or the coupler may have broken at the shaft (new design) and you need a new coupler kit. The coupler can also just crack around its center hole allowing it to slip on the motor or transmission shaft hampering those functions.

If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced.

Front load washers often use a self contained electric drain pump and the motor may be worn or damaged and require the complete pump to be replaced. Remove any foreign objects or replace the worn or damaged pump, thencarefully tighten the hose clamps and check for leaks before installing the cabinet or front panel.

All front-load washing machines have shock absorbers that are used to dampen the tub movement in the spin cycle. The shock absorbers or struts are attached to the base frame and to the outer tub and you will need to remove the front panel or the rear panel to access them. When shock absorbers weaken or become damaged, the machine will often make a loud banging sound during the spin cycle and if the symptom is not corrected, can lead to damage of other components. Inspect the shocks for signs of broken attachments, leaked fluids or a weakened dampening action and replace both shocks if worn. Remove power from the appliance before attempting this repair.

Some models of top-load washers use tub dampening straps to cushion the movement of the tub during the spin cycle. There are four straps attached to the top of the tub and to each corner of the cabinet

Also There are four suspension rods that suspend the tub and allow the tub to free float. If the suspension rods are noisy, there will be a squeaking noise during wash. You can fix this by putting bearing (lithium base) grease in the cup that each rod rests in. If it continues to squeal replace all four rods the cups come with the rods, replace them as well.

If your washer has a loud banging noise during spin the balance weight may be loose. This weight is to counter act the weight of the motor so you will find the weight directly behind the motor. Sometimes simply tightening the bolts will fix your issue but if the bolts are stripped out get some bolts slightly longer than the original bolt to allow you to put a locking nut on the bottom side of the mounting plate. If the weight is broken replace it.

Lastly Washer vibration can be caused by a broken counter balance spring. Ur washer may be equipped with one or more counter balance springs which help to absorb the natural movement of the spinning tub. If a counter balance spring fails the tub might lean in one direction more than another and it will shake and cause vibration.
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

GRINDING NOISES:

The plastic drive is known as a splutch (splined clutch). One problem with these washers has been loosening of the nut that locks the pulley to the agitator input shaft. If it gets loose, the pulley drops and the teeth no longer have good contact with the teeth of the splutch basket drive gear in spin mode. The solution is application of blue locktite to the threads of the input shaft. There have also been a lot of failures of the actuator that operates the cam ring of the splutch which raises and lowers the basket drive gear. It is raised for agitate mode and lowered for spin. There is a spring between the basket drive gear and the gearcase housing that maintains pressure on the basket drive gear. There are cams on the cam ring that ride up and down on cams in the splutch cam (housing) as it is rotated by the actuator thus raising and lowering the basket drive gear. The gearcase has a planetary gear set in it.

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May 31, 2012 | LG WM3987HW 4.2 cu.ft. White Front Load...

2 Answers

Making loud noise in the spin cycle and now does not spin at all


Sounds like the tub bearing is gone. Get it checked out though. It could be the pump bearing, a cheaper fix. Or as bad as the tub bearing, a motor bearing.

Feb 26, 2010 | Maytag Washing Machines

2 Answers

Washing machine has started to make noise. What could be the issue.


could be coupler or bearings on the bottom of the agitator and tub

Jul 09, 2009 | Maytag MER5775Q Electric Kitchen Range

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