Question about Heating & Cooling
When heater came on, one of the four elemets did not come on
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: No Gas in Heating Element
If you are using the heater at temperatures below 40 degrees, ther will not be enough gas vapor to run the heater. If the temperature is above 40, look for an obstruction in the gas piping or gas valve itself. There is a small screen on the inlet side of the gas valve that you can inspect if you remove the inlet hose. Make sure you reinstall the hose using a teflon base pipe sealant on the threads.
Posted on Dec 19, 2007
before you replace the heater
most common cause of heating failure is burn out of the thermal cut-out.
(also called thermal fuse, overtemp cutout and probably half a dozen other names)
These are a small screw on device on the exhaust duct, when exhaust air reaches too high a temperature, like a blockage, they fail before a fire.
examin the exhaust duct inside the dryer for devices that look like this or like this with wires connected to the terminals. there may be 2(hi lo), test with a ohmmeter -conductivity good, no conductivity replace.
there are only a few different kinds the local parts guy will have them all. take the dud one for him to match.
Posted on Aug 27, 2008
SOURCE: propane heater
I recently had a similar problem with my DESA wall-mounted vent-free natural gas heater. We had it repaired but the problem recurred annually until it wouldn't stay on, even on low. There is a part known as an oxygen depletion sensor (sometimes called a flame sensor) that is part of the pilot assembly. When it is working properly, it sends a very tiny current that lets the heater know to keep feeding gas. After a few years the sensor can get rusty, which interferes with its electrical job, causing it to tell the heater to shut off so it doesn't kill you. A temporary repair can be effected by removing the part and cleaning it with sandpaper or emery paper. I suppose compressed air might work too but probably not for long if it is impeded by rust and not just dust. I found all this out from the repairman who thought he had it fixed and then it went out as he was leaving. He couldn't find the part but I found it online at a DESA-authorized distributor and it was about $40. He installed it in about 10 minutes and it has now worked like new (it's at least 15 years old) for over a month.
Posted on Feb 24, 2009
yes you can, but is complicated, involves changing injector, burner, and reprogramming the PCB for the new gas type. Get a pro to do it for you
Posted on Dec 05, 2009
You should contact whoever sells you propane. They may be able to offer help or advice without needing to send a technician. Here\'s a little background info I\'ve picked up since owning some Empire Direct Vent propane wall heaters. According to me, try these steps first.
Gas appliances have a valve in them with three positions. Off, On, and Pilot. Now, gas is a relatively dangerous substance, so you wouldn\'t want it to come flowing freely in your house if it wasn\'t being burned off. So, any appliance like a furnace or a water heater that runs automatically (as opposed to, say, your oven) has a safety device. It\'s an electrical system within the heater that works to ensure gas is only flowing if the heater is on and burning off the gas.
There is a device, called a Thermopile or Millivolt Generator, that looks like a cylinder about 1/4 in diameter, and probably about 2" long, though you may only see the top of it. It is located in the heater such that it is in direct contact with the flame of the Pilot light. When the gas is flowing, and the pilot light is on, metals in the Thermopile actually generate electricity from the heat. The gas valve in the heater stays open as long as there is electricity coming from the Thermopile. Make sense? So, in order for gas to flow into the heater while the valve is set to ON, that whole feedback system has to be operational.
Now, there wouldn\'t be heat when you first start a cold heater. So, when you light the pilot light, you turn the valve to PILOT. Notice that you have to push it in to get gas to flow, and you have to keep pushing it for 15-30 seconds or it\'ll go off. That\'s because in PILOT mode, you are manually overriding the gas valve and forcing it open, and if you let up before the thermopile has time to heat up, the gas will go out.
A pilot light, once lit, can go out for several reasons. These direct vent wall heaters are especially vulnerable to drafts of air from outside affecting burning conditions in the heater. They can literally "suck" the flame out. What happens is that the heater will be burning fine, but then when the thermostat sends the signal to turn off the heater (room is warm enough), the suction caused when the main gas burner goes out sucks out the pilot flame also. Without the pilot flame heating the Thermopile to keep the valve open, the heater won\'t start next time the room gets cold.
That\'s one reason. Another is that the pilot flame itself can be too weak because gunk can build up in the hole. It\'s a really tiny hole, so the tool to open it won\'t be found at your local hardware store. But your propane company should have a few. It\'s a tiny, tiny drill bit and you work it around in the hole of the pilot jet. Google pictures of the heater if you don\'t know where some of these parts fit on it. You may have to use a wrench and remove the pilot jet in order to clean it.
Now, remember you\'re dealing with gas, so you only want to be taking parts out if you know how to put them back in! You can do diagnostics on the electrical part of this system without taking any parts off. Find a friend who has a multimeter, and remove the leads on the thermopile. It should be making a certain amount of electricity when it\'s in the heat stream. You can contact Empire to get the voltages.
*You may have a faulty thermopile; check with meter. this would also apply if it seems the thermostat is acting funny (Thermopile provides current for thermostats in these systems)
*You may have a clogged pilot orifice; call propane company
*you may have to continually light your pilot light if there are windy
Hope this helps! Remember again, be safe around gas! If you don\'t feel confident putting it back together safely, don\'t take it apart!!!
Posted on Nov 25, 2012
Tips for a great answer:
Jan 03, 2017 | Heating & Cooling
Feb 24, 2015 | Mr Heater Base Camp Portable Buddy Propane...
Sep 12, 2014 | Dryers
Mar 14, 2011 | Vanguard International Infra Red - Medium...
Nov 28, 2010 | Hotpoint Dryers
Jan 21, 2010 | Rinnai Desa Vent-Free Infrared Gas Heater:...
Jun 30, 2009 | Hayward H Series Pool & Spa Heater 400k...
17 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!