Question about Whirlpool Refrigerators
Check therimistors, cold control and defrost timer
MAY HAVE A BAD START RELAY OR CAPACITOR ON THE COMPRESSOR , CAN BUY A INEXSPENSIVE 3 IN 1 HARDSTART KIT AND BY PASS THEM , NOT THAT HARD TO DO, COMES WITH INSTRUCTIONS> BY THE WAY DO U HEAR ANY CLICKING SOUNDS FROM COMPRESSOR? BUT U MAY ALSO WANT TO CHECK UR COLD CONTROL THERMOSTAT IF IT GOES BAD U MAY GET A NON START ALSO HAVE IT CHECKED FOR PROPER VOLTAGE AND OHMS RESISTANCE WHEN IN THE ON POSITION
A BAD DEFROST TIMER though seldom CAN SHUT DOWN COMPRESSOR HAVE IT CHECKED WITH MULTI METER.
to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click.
Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS.
And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
Some fridges are now using ADC boards.
Designers are using microprocessors (on solid state circuit boards) to adapt defrost intervals and durations to compensate for differences and changes in operating conditions. Such techniques are calledAdaptive Defrost Control, commonly abbreviated as ADC. Theu are normally found in same locations as the timer would be but look somewhat different in appearance. It is more difficult to test these units without the appliance schematic.
Some ADC / control boards control other functions of the refrigerator, too, such as icemaking and electrical air damper door opening and closing.The defrost frequency may also be shortened under certain circumstances.
AT TIMES YOU MAY HEAR THE COMPRESSOR CLICK OFF AND ON OVER AND OVER. Signs of a bad start relay or capacitor. Check with an OHMS meter for continuity (ohms) and voltage, capacitor can be checked for Microfares. ( if in series with the windings)
If you hear your compressor "short-cycling" (starting and stopping at short intervals) try jumping across the two leads of the cold control thermostat ( in the fridge compartment) with an alligator jumper. You can also check both for live voltage current and ohms- If there is a greenthirdlead, ignore it for this test; it is the ground wire. If the fridge starts running constantly, the cold control is bad. Replace it.
To check ur compressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, sometimes located next to compressor in a casing.
You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur start winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground or COM
Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms
Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms, u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity
God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.
TO REPLACE RELAY AND CAPACITOR WITH A HARDSTART KIT YOU CAN USE
A 3 in 1 start kit for compressors sizes 1/4 through 1/3 HP. And a 5 in 1 for higher H.P. (BE SURE TO MATCH WITH UR COMPRESSOR MODEL NUMBER AND TYPE) The kit includes relay, capacitor, and overload device, pre-wired. The kit will replace all 3 electrical components on capillary refrigeration systems. For newer systems with a run capacitor use proper kit. For smaller horsepower compressors useTJ90RCO810.
The wire set up is as follows the red wire goes to the right side of compressor prong, the white wire to the left side prong, the black wire to the center prong, and the 2 other black wires go to the power and the ground connection
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Refrigeration System Basics Chapter 1
Posted on Jan 07, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: defrost thermostat connector
Where is the defrost heater? If it is below the problem area, I don't think it is a defrost problem. This sounds like low freon. The symptoms of this are heavy frost on only part of the coils. Try deforsting with a hair dryer and putting it back together. Wait about 3 hours and look again. If there is frost only on part of the coils that is bad. The most this unit could defrost is every 4 hours, most are on 8 or 12 hour cycles. On most units the defrost timer shuts off the compressor and gives current to the defrost heater/s through the defrost thermostat. This thermostat is closed below 15 degrees and opens at a much higher temp after sensing the heat. This shuts off the heat usually before the timer and lets the water drip down where it should go. Then the timer turns the compressor back on and removes current from the defrost system. A common defrost problem is if the doors are left open for a LONG time or not shut all the way. Sometimes it causes so much ice that it can't melt with just one defrost cycle. This problem builds as if air flow is restricted it causes even more frost and gets worse. If this ever happens , just find the defrost timer and turn it very slowly click by click just until the compressor stops. Let it defrost , then do it again in about 2 hours. If it is a low freon problem there may still be a partial warrenty left sometimes the sealed system is guarenteed ror 5 - 10 years. Sometimes if it is not covered it is not worth fixing.
Posted on Jul 04, 2008
What temps. do you have in the freezer and the fridge sections?
Are both the compressor and the condensor fans running?
Can you put a thermometer in there?
This could be a compressor,evaporator fan, defrost element and or a circuit board issue.
Posted on Sep 15, 2009
I will give the wiring diagram a try but your refrigerator has a simple defrost timer that is most likely the reason for your problem. Give me a few moments and I will give you a photo. Inside the fresh food compartment and behind the control panel is where the timer is located. Sea Breeze
Posted on Oct 23, 2009
make sure the damper vent door located between the freezer and refrige compartments is opening and letting in cold air from the freezer,if they ice up they can stick shut and not allow air flow,this door is behind a plastic grille an a hair dryer works great to defrost them
Posted on Apr 30, 2010
SOURCE: Have a Kenmore bottom freezer
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