- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Your problem is a bearing of inner tub may also need spider assembly caused by overloading using non HE detergent 0r to much soap if noise gets worst it will take out seal and will start leaking thru-back side under stater motor that you call generator Remove stater drum by holding inner drum and taking rear nut of stater drum after removing drum UN plug wire connections remove 4 bolts holding coil . then remove front of washer remove all counter waits remove all bolts from outer tub remove shocks remove springs and drain and vent hoses pull out the whole basket from unit pull tub in half remove inner tube Pop out both bearings back and front replace with new bearing and seal reverse back together same way you take apart may take 2 people heavy stuff
1. Bring Band-Aids, Frigidaire seems to leave many sharp edges!! Remove top panel. Most of these have front controls, so the screws on the top back allow the whole top to come off easily, remove the screws and pull the cover forward. If the dryer is mounted on top of the washer, remove the dryer off first. Remove the 2 lower screws on the front panel, pull kick panel down and off. Turn off the hot and cold water taps and remove back panel. 2. Loosen two screws that hold weight on back half and slide out weight. 3. Remove drive belt. Cut wire tie, unplug motor and leave wiring in the bottom of the washer. Remove 4 screws/bolts that hold on motor and remove motor. 4. On front right, loosen screw and remove rubber drain trap from tub. Squeeze large snap ring and remove water level sensor ( thing that looks like an old fuel filter ) from rubber drain also. Remove little hose from top of water level switch also. ( NOTE: You can also disconnect the level switch hose at the top of the washer. This will make it easier to re-connect, however you'll need to be careful that you do not damage the hose when you remove the tub assembly ). 5. At this point, you might want to remove the motor control board and pump motor assembly. Each is secured by 2 screws and are easily removed. This will prevent accidental damage and give you more room inside the washer to work with. There are 2 connectors on the control board and 1 on the pump motor � be sure to remove those first. 6. Shocks, push the lock tab to allow the pin to be slid out of the tub and the shock will be free from the drum. ( picture help one and picture help two )Push pins through to the rear and remove. The baskets will now be hanging from the springs. 7. From top, twist out the tube from top of the outer tank. Place support under drum. I use 2 blocks of wood. 8. From front, carefully cut the glued spots where the door seal is glued to the front panel and remove the fill spout holder clip. The tools used is a piece of copper tubing flattened down. I use a wire tie to reinstall as the metal clip can be a pain to work with! 9. Drum should just be hanging from 2 large springs. Remove the clips/spring holders that go over the top of the springs so they can be lifted and removed from the washer. Start on either side, lift spring, move toward center and lower to disconnect drum from the frame. Completely remove spring. Repeat on the other side. Drum should now be sitting on the supports. 10. From above, lift drum and slide out the rear. Leaves you with an empty cabinet. 11. Lay drum on front face on a blanket or sheet and start to remove screws that hold halves together. Once all screws are out, the back half with pulley (top half if sitting on face) easily lifts up from the other half. 12. Remove and replace tub gasket seal. New seal will appear thicker than old one. The old seal can be picked out with a small flat screwdriver. Assembly. 13. Place supports in bottom of washer. Lift and slide drum back into place on top of supports. 14. I use a zip/wire tie to go around the water fill tube where the spring clip was and then cut the leftover tail off of the zip/wire tie. I remove the 2 screws holding the plastic hose in place to make installing the wire tie easier. Push the rubber boot over the plastic hose and use the wire tie to secure the boot to the plastic hose. Helps to install drum support springs (big ones on top) first. 15. Install safety clips back over springs. Glue the top hose back into place. 16. Front assembly reverse of disassembly. 17. Back and Motor assemble reverse of disassembly. 18. Finally, pull the boot over the front of washer. Don't do this until drum is in fully, or the boot might not end up on straight and might twist a bit. Small spots are re-glued again in place, super glue works well for this.. Spot glue at the 12 o'clock, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 o'clock positions around the opening. 19. Put on back and top. 20. Run load, check for leaks. Note: back panel is structural and should be on for a load to be run. 21. Should be done. Total time 3+ hours. I hope this helps anyone who has to get into the Frigidaire -Kenmore ( 417.###### ) front loader and replace the seal/tub bearing&shell or inner basket. Tips for removal / replacement of inner tub....
1. After removing the back panel and drive belt, remove the pulley from the shaft. The bolt is removed easily, but we often have to gently pry around the base of the pulley to remove it (unless you have a puller). The pulley is very light and the metal is soft, so be very careful that you do not damage or bend it while prying.2. The inner tub will lift out once you have split the outer drum halves. 3. Remove the 3 tumbling fins from the old inner tub. The new tub will not include these, so you'll need to reinstall the old ones. They are held on by one or to screws each. *Careful* of the outside of the wash basket as it is VERY sharp!!
Is the drum bouncing around? Remove the front lower panel and the top from the cabinet. Replace the shocks and/or tub support springs if they are broken. If the spin is noisy, there might be a problem with the inner basket or the tub bearing. Good luck!
sorry no recalls on fridgidaire front load,,there pretty good units,,the mildew and slugg comes from not using he or low suddsing detergent..now dont move so fast ,,because a new spin basket may not solve your problems with noise..check that back tub bearing while you have it a part..now that unit is fresh and new ,,clean the unit every other month with bleach..hot wash cold rinse,,that will keep suds slug and smell out unit...onthejob
It may be something that was in the wash and fell thru the holes in the inner drum. Check all the plastic agitators and make sure they are all secure and an attach bolt has not backed out of one and rubbing the outer tub. It will wear a hole in it fast if it is.
Usually when the bearings go bad, it gets very loud on the spin cycle, like a loud roar and sometimes clothes will have rust or grease stains on them.
I just replaced my tub bearings on my Frigidare and spent about $60. They are all pretty much the same. On mine they only list the complete rear outer tub assembly with bearings, but you can knock the old bearings and seal out and match them up at a bearing supply house or you can buy online. Online seems much cheaper. If you buy bearings, make sure you get ones with a -2rs on the end of the part number. ex. 6308-2rs. They are sealed and hold up much better in water environment.
I would give it a try, the junk man doesn't care if it comes in pieces or one big piece.
There are a couple online articles that can probably help you. Do a google search for 'washer rear tub bearings"
The bearing in the duet is attached to the outer rear tub of the washer. You have to remove the whole rear half of the outer tub. Take off the back and you will see all the screws around the tub where they attach together. you have to buy the whole rear half too. They wont let you replace just the bearings.
If your machine produces a lot of banging noises when in a permanent press final spin you may be experiencing a broken spider. It is a part which is not made from stainless steel metal, but attached to a stainless still drum (tub spin). So, when it is soaked in water all the time during a normal operation of a washer it creates a galvanic element between a stainless still drum and itself. This results in severe corrosion of the "spider" and then leads to it's breakage. To check if you have a broken "spider" open the door of the washer and try to kick your internal drum back and forward while rotating it slowly.If you will hear clicking noises (metal to metal) in some position of the drum it means that your spider is broken. The replacement of this spider will require complete disassemble of the drum. Most likely you will end up replacing this whole part
Drum assembly, spin basket
Part # 131618500Another way is get just a spider part, it's doable, but may be tricky. Cheers!
I just went through the same issue with my Kenmore front loading washing machine. I assumed (and a Sears repairman also told me) that it is the bearings. After I took the drum assembly out, I saw the rear drum broken and the inner tub hitting the outer tub. I ordered the outer drum assembly and only when I took the inner drum assembly out I realized the the "Spider" attached to the inner drum (and spindle) was broken. Entire drum assembly cost $417 + shipping and it may be cheaper in the long run to buy a new washer. I like the front loaders because they save water and good for the environment, but the US manufacturers have not yet perfected the technology like European manufacturers (or they don't want the machines to last too long just like cars). Anyway, I am looking into welding the spider tomorrow. If not will return the outer tub assembly and buy a top loading washer for $300!