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Looking for voltage requirements on a Samsung BN44-00774A Power Supply / LED Board UN55H6203AFXZA US01.

Troubleshooting a Samsung LED TV, need to the voltage when testing backlighting

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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rulds2008
  • 3866 Answers

SOURCE: Polaroid LCD TV Symptom dead

The ware to buy information will be hard to come by hence that manufacture for this product does not use a part number on every single part when servicing the unit. Thus I can recommend where to take it and whom to call for more information since this is a unit that i personally do not repair for my clients anymore due to the aftermarket of their parts and how expensive it is getting them ETC. Here is one solution find someone on Ebay.com that is saling this TV dirt cheap and take the parts from it at your own risk! or you can go the manufacture route by calling this number 1-866-289-5168
I know you came here looking for part numbers and more help then this we understand as experts but to tell you to do something that can harm you or go beyond our scope to get these part numbers, because the part in this unit don't go by that would not help you and us and the cost of the assistance would thus go up surpassing the $9.99. I only can diagnose and check on a solution based on your problem, Yes Fixya does have solutions that do Fix but in the case we can only recommend and I would encourage you to rate my assistance based only on recommendations to solve a solution only,

Thank You

Rulds2008

Posted on Apr 28, 2009

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Power Supply Board for SAMSUNG 40" LCD TV Model LA40R81BX

You'll find some Samsung power supply boards here : http://www.usefulparts.com/index.php?main_page=index&manufacturers_id=11&sort=20a&filter_id=98&alpha_filter_id=0
but you have to open your TV first and find out model number

Posted on May 10, 2010

budmrtn
  • 11361 Answers

SOURCE: I have an insignia NS-LCD37HD that has backlight

Chec to see if you are getting 12vdc at the T-CON board power input pin first.
First, look at the screen in darkened room to see if you can see any slight glow from the screen, if it does, then the problem can be the T-CON (not getting the 12vdc) or the main logic board not feeding the signals to the T-CON board.
if not, next place to check will be the power supply module, make sure it has 24vdc which is required by the backlight inverter to work, the reason for not having 24vdc can be from bad DC filter caps (leaking/bulging top, high ESR) or short circuits in the inverter board which will cause the 24vdc supply to go into shutdown mode, so you may have to disconnect the power cable that feed the inverter board to see if the 24vdc will work without the inverter board hookup, you will need to apply about 3~4 amp of load to the 24vdc to make sure it can handle that. There are fuses on the backlight inverter boards also. So there is some troubleshooting you will have to do to find out the causes of the problem you are having.

If you are going to DIY and have proper tools, electronics knowledge, and know safety precaution then please read on:

Please see my basic troubleshooting guide here:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5093881-lcd_flat_panel_tv_troubleshooting_guide

Failed TV and Monitors: http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

Parts: www.shopjimmy.com
Capacitors kit: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/Default.aspx he can make you a set of caps.

Posted on Oct 04, 2010

Testimonial: "So far so good! Almost got it figured out. Thanks!"

SOURCE: I got a Sony Bravia

http://www.smpcshop.com/KDL-40WL135-KDL-46WL135-p-8895.html
Above is a link for a service manual.

Hi, well I applaud you for starting in the right place, The power supply, as, if, that isn't right nothing else can be. But you simply cannot do anything without a Service Manual. In this it has everything one needs to repair the set. OK if it is shutting down, after that amount of time, of working and then faulting, then it is most definitely a "Thermal" problem, the way we "Find" problems such as this is "Freeze Spray" you use this on each component that is suspected of being the "Culprit" and you will soon,find that errant component. Now also not every fault is a Capacitor, I see many, many people that think, that Capacitors are always the "Culprit" now while that may be true in a few cases, a faulty Electrolytic Cap, or ordinary, Cap goes faulty, this is only a SYMPTOM, something has damaged those caps causing them to "Fail". One MUST always find the root "Cause", otherwise if you just treat, the SYMPTOM, the "Cause" will just make the "Symptom" come back, in short order, as the prime cause still, hasn't been fixed., Now Capacitors hate AC ripple, or Over Voltage. Thats it. Oh.. and Heat, if these Capacitors, are too close to a Heat Source, then thats a prime cause of failure. Resistors, hardly ever go faulty,and if they do, it is generally obvious. However it doesn't hurt to check values with our Multimeter. Remember though resistors are made, with up to 20% tolerance from stated value, as such, are not too critical, unless in Timing circuits etc. Always check, the Values, of resistors, as with any other component, with the power OFF. Now Diodes especially "Zener Diode", are another thing to check, those and ordinary "Signal Diode" should always be suspect. next we have Transistors and IC's. The Transistors MUST ALL be checked to see if they have a good, "Junction" this is done, with our meter set to "Diode Test" and usually are about 0.6 to 0.7. With IC's you must check, voltage levels, or Logic Levels, going in and out, have a look at the circuit diagram, and it will tell you what they should be. It is a good idea to always measure the Power Supply voltages, see if a "Rail" is Low, that will be because some component has gone somewhat or all short circuit, to Earth, now, if the "Rail" is Higher, suspect an "Open Circuit" component, like a Diode, or Transistor. The voltages expressed in the manual are spot on, ANY variation MUST be investigated. I have been doing all this for over 30 years now, and I do indeed wish, we could have a set of "Symptoms" and be ables to say.. "Oh that;s the so-in-so and replace this" however unfortunately this although does happen, most "Symptoms" can have literally tens, of "Causes" all often "Interlinked" One simply has to do a methodical troubleshooting procedure, and always think, "are my Voltages Correct" as this is how, you Fix the problem, by making them so. Keep up the good work. If that link above doesn't furnish a Service manual, it is imperative you get one, even if you must pay for it. It will pay for itself in about 2 mins.
Gee it seems that you have replaced just about the entire "Guts" of the set, in the industry we call this the "Shot gun" method, however it seldom works in reality. One really needs to isolate the Cause, of the "Fault" and repair that and also any damage done by that. As if one doesn't remove the "Cause" it will simply fault again when the "New" bit is connected up. One needs to get the unit going section by section, testing and proving the prior section before connecting up to the next, which also must be tested to make sure that what you are going to connect will NOT damage what you are connecting it to.
Also unfortunately, these LED's Blinks, are NOT an error code in actual fact.
What you need to do is use the service manual, and follow through the troubleshooting steps, to isolate and hopefully repair your problem.
Basically it is all about voltages and if they are correct, a Higher voltage than stated usually means a component is Open circuit or a very high resistance, whereas a Lower than stated voltage usually indicates a Short Circuit, or low value resistance component, is "Faulty". These are all in the SM, as are the waveforms that must be checked, it is indeed very difficult to repair electronics these days without specialised equipment and even though I have over 30 years experience i find it difficult, so good luck.

Posted on Feb 24, 2011

SD Tech
  • 14553 Answers

SOURCE: No Vs Voltage (200-210) out of a BN44-175A Samsung Power supply

if no voltage out either a short on the line pulling it down or its at the source--usually one or the other.

Posted on Aug 29, 2012

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Samsung UN65EH6000FXZA (Version YH02)


There is three possibilities:
1. Defective back lights LED strip.
2. Defective LED driver section integrated in the main power supply.
3. the main board.

How to check it:
1. You need a LED back lights tester to check the strips, or open the panel, use a 3.7 V DC power supply to test each LED diode separately.
2. Use a multi meter to test the out put DC voltage from the connector to the LED strip between the + & - for each section, (like 1+/1-, 2+/2- etc.) it should read 140 - 220 V DC. (need power up the TV).
3. Un-plug the cable between the main board & the power supply, power up the TV, if you get the back lights light up, the main board is bad.

Aug 11, 2017 | Samsung Televison & Video

1 Answer

What are the proper voltage outputs for each pin on both plugs of the power supply board, of a Samsung UN55H6203AFXZA . The power board is #BN44-00774A


If you wish to get some details; visit the site linked here. Pull up older posts.
http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
Circuit diagrams of many popular brand TVs and other devices are given.

May 19, 2017 | Samsung Televison & Video

1 Answer

Samsung un60d6000 tv no picture only sound?


the voltage is ok doo you have constantly 150 v if not led blocks is bad

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1 Answer

I have a Samsung UN55H6203AFXZAversion US01. Can I use the same model number but different version number parts on this?


Hi Anonymous,
Generally the parts work if the connectors are same. You may have to do some corrections in the service manu.

Nov 06, 2016 | Samsung 55" Black LED 1080P Smart HDTV -...

1 Answer

Have sound but no picture. If I shine a light at the screen I can see the picture. Samsung UN55H6203AFXZA. US01


have you got a black screen???
if so it could be what they call the invertor that is behing the screen at the bottom.
may need replacing.
are you able to put a vga cable from your laptop to a monitor?
if you can see a pic on the monitor then yes it could be the invertor that's gone.you will have to get a new one.

Nov 06, 2016 | Samsung Televison & Video

1 Answer

UN55H6203AFXZA US01 turns on with sound but no picture. Flashlight test shows TCON is good. Back panel removed, TV on, no indication of backlight illumination. Standby light blinks 6 when turned on.


You're a technician work to earn I assume. Do understand; this is a forum to help one who knows a little; to make their sets right. Not a help you like people to turn revenue out of it. Understand? Do not know nothing; yet runs a service shop to cheat others!!!!! https://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/

Oct 27, 2016 | Televison & Video

1 Answer

Bn44-00666a led voltages


If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Pull up older posts.
http://electro-medical.blogspot.com/
http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/

Apr 12, 2016 | Samsung Televison & Video

1 Answer

Samsung un40eh5000f led backlight don't work i replaced power supply and main board still no luck


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? 2:46
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Samsung UN40EH5000 40-Inch 1080p 60Hz LED TV

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Amazon.com, Inc.Samsung UN40EH5000 40-Inch 1080p 60Hz LED TV (2012 Model) ... Samsung didn't advertise this (or maybe its just my TV), but I have absolutely NO BACKLIGHT BLEED...... Hope that helps you find the settings that work best for you. ..... Game Modedoesn't really do anything except make the picture darker and less ...

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