Question about Samsung Televison & Video
Troubleshooting a Samsung LED TV, need to the voltage when testing backlighting
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Polaroid LCD TV Symptom dead
The ware to buy information will be hard to come by hence that manufacture for this product does not use a part number on every single part when servicing the unit. Thus I can recommend where to take it and whom to call for more information since this is a unit that i personally do not repair for my clients anymore due to the aftermarket of their parts and how expensive it is getting them ETC. Here is one solution find someone on Ebay.com that is saling this TV dirt cheap and take the parts from it at your own risk! or you can go the manufacture route by calling this number 1-866-289-5168
I know you came here looking for part numbers and more help then this we understand as experts but to tell you to do something that can harm you or go beyond our scope to get these part numbers, because the part in this unit don't go by that would not help you and us and the cost of the assistance would thus go up surpassing the $9.99. I only can diagnose and check on a solution based on your problem, Yes Fixya does have solutions that do Fix but in the case we can only recommend and I would encourage you to rate my assistance based only on recommendations to solve a solution only,
Posted on Apr 28, 2009
You'll find some Samsung power supply boards here : http://www.usefulparts.com/index.php?main_page=index&manufacturers_id=11&sort=20a&filter_id=98&alpha_filter_id=0
but you have to open your TV first and find out model number
Posted on May 10, 2010
Chec to see if you are getting 12vdc at the T-CON board power input pin first.
First, look at the screen in darkened room to see if you can see any slight glow from the screen, if it does, then the problem can be the T-CON (not getting the 12vdc) or the main logic board not feeding the signals to the T-CON board.
if not, next place to check will be the power supply module, make sure it has 24vdc which is required by the backlight inverter to work, the reason for not having 24vdc can be from bad DC filter caps (leaking/bulging top, high ESR) or short circuits in the inverter board which will cause the 24vdc supply to go into shutdown mode, so you may have to disconnect the power cable that feed the inverter board to see if the 24vdc will work without the inverter board hookup, you will need to apply about 3~4 amp of load to the 24vdc to make sure it can handle that. There are fuses on the backlight inverter boards also. So there is some troubleshooting you will have to do to find out the causes of the problem you are having.
If you are going to DIY and have proper tools, electronics knowledge, and know safety precaution then please read on:
Please see my basic troubleshooting guide here:
Failed TV and Monitors: http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums
Capacitors kit: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/Default.aspx he can make you a set of caps.
Posted on Oct 04, 2010
Testimonial: "So far so good! Almost got it figured out. Thanks!"
SOURCE: I got a Sony Bravia
Above is a link for a service manual.
Hi, well I applaud you for starting in the right place, The power supply, as, if, that isn't right nothing else can be. But you simply cannot do anything without a Service Manual. In this it has everything one needs to repair the set. OK if it is shutting down, after that amount of time, of working and then faulting, then it is most definitely a "Thermal" problem, the way we "Find" problems such as this is "Freeze Spray" you use this on each component that is suspected of being the "Culprit" and you will soon,find that errant component. Now also not every fault is a Capacitor, I see many, many people that think, that Capacitors are always the "Culprit" now while that may be true in a few cases, a faulty Electrolytic Cap, or ordinary, Cap goes faulty, this is only a SYMPTOM, something has damaged those caps causing them to "Fail". One MUST always find the root "Cause", otherwise if you just treat, the SYMPTOM, the "Cause" will just make the "Symptom" come back, in short order, as the prime cause still, hasn't been fixed., Now Capacitors hate AC ripple, or Over Voltage. Thats it. Oh.. and Heat, if these Capacitors, are too close to a Heat Source, then thats a prime cause of failure. Resistors, hardly ever go faulty,and if they do, it is generally obvious. However it doesn't hurt to check values with our Multimeter. Remember though resistors are made, with up to 20% tolerance from stated value, as such, are not too critical, unless in Timing circuits etc. Always check, the Values, of resistors, as with any other component, with the power OFF. Now Diodes especially "Zener Diode", are another thing to check, those and ordinary "Signal Diode" should always be suspect. next we have Transistors and IC's. The Transistors MUST ALL be checked to see if they have a good, "Junction" this is done, with our meter set to "Diode Test" and usually are about 0.6 to 0.7. With IC's you must check, voltage levels, or Logic Levels, going in and out, have a look at the circuit diagram, and it will tell you what they should be. It is a good idea to always measure the Power Supply voltages, see if a "Rail" is Low, that will be because some component has gone somewhat or all short circuit, to Earth, now, if the "Rail" is Higher, suspect an "Open Circuit" component, like a Diode, or Transistor. The voltages expressed in the manual are spot on, ANY variation MUST be investigated. I have been doing all this for over 30 years now, and I do indeed wish, we could have a set of "Symptoms" and be ables to say.. "Oh that;s the so-in-so and replace this" however unfortunately this although does happen, most "Symptoms" can have literally tens, of "Causes" all often "Interlinked" One simply has to do a methodical troubleshooting procedure, and always think, "are my Voltages Correct" as this is how, you Fix the problem, by making them so. Keep up the good work. If that link above doesn't furnish a Service manual, it is imperative you get one, even if you must pay for it. It will pay for itself in about 2 mins.
Gee it seems that you have replaced just about the entire "Guts" of the set, in the industry we call this the "Shot gun" method, however it seldom works in reality. One really needs to isolate the Cause, of the "Fault" and repair that and also any damage done by that. As if one doesn't remove the "Cause" it will simply fault again when the "New" bit is connected up. One needs to get the unit going section by section, testing and proving the prior section before connecting up to the next, which also must be tested to make sure that what you are going to connect will NOT damage what you are connecting it to.
Also unfortunately, these LED's Blinks, are NOT an error code in actual fact.
What you need to do is use the service manual, and follow through the troubleshooting steps, to isolate and hopefully repair your problem.
Basically it is all about voltages and if they are correct, a Higher voltage than stated usually means a component is Open circuit or a very high resistance, whereas a Lower than stated voltage usually indicates a Short Circuit, or low value resistance component, is "Faulty". These are all in the SM, as are the waveforms that must be checked, it is indeed very difficult to repair electronics these days without specialised equipment and even though I have over 30 years experience i find it difficult, so good luck.
Posted on Feb 24, 2011
if no voltage out either a short on the line pulling it down or its at the source--usually one or the other.
Posted on Aug 29, 2012
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