Question about Fisher and Paykel Washing Machines
Fisher and paykel E373(22098-c). Have had seal replaced and moved it make sure it's pretty well level. Only started doing this recently and nothing different otherwise
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
First I would like to say thanks for all the information on the Fisher-Paykel active smart fridge freezer problems. This was a lot more useful than their customer support help line… After a week of hanging on for ten minutes without any answer I had a look on the net and found your site with descriptions of similar problems so I decided to investigate further
I have a Fisher Paykel fridge freezer (model 402B in the UK) about three years old. Although it didn’t seem to be as cold as normal, the first sign of a serious problem was when it started making a rattling or knocking noise from the freezer compartment. Looking inside it was obviously iced up solid and the noise was probably the fan catching the ice. So first thing I decided to try was a days de icing after which everything seemed ok except the green indicator light was now flashing about once every second.
Two weeks later it was badly iced up again so the problem was still there. At first I suspected the fans (which I could never see actually working). I disconnected one and tried it with a 6v torch battery and it spun ok. It was then I realised what was happening - the fans cut out whenever the door is opened so they are always stopped if you look inside.
A closer look at the aluminium heat exchanger(behind the plastic panel at the back of the freezer section) showed there was some kind of heater element clipped along the bottom with feed wires at either side. Obviousely part of the automatic de icing systems. It’s a bit tricky but there an electrical connector plug at the top and disconnecting this enables you to unclip the element and remove it (except that in this case one wire had been trapped at the wrong side of the coolant pipes when they had been fitted so it had to be snipped to get it out). Once out a circuit test showed there was no circuit through the element. So cutting into the two shrouded connections at each end of the element revealed some little components inside which I now know are “Thermal fuses”. One of these had “Blown”. There was a number on the side: - DF 72S which Google revealed is a thermal fuse set at 72 degrees. Although these are listed as spares in all sorts of places non was convenient to the UK. So I found a similar component at Maplins Electronics (R14) set at 92 degrees for just 69p! The reasoning being that the other thermal DF 72S fuse was still ok and the slightly higher use temp at the other end would still blow before anything melted!
By the way you cannot solder these things in so its best to use miniature screwed “block” connectors plus a good covering with insulation tape.
After putting it all back together its now been working for a month and no ice build up… The green light did still flash for a while but went out once the temperature dropped too normal freezing level.
Total cost of replacement parts was under £1 but it took a bit of time find the problem.
Posted on May 12, 2008
HI. Just so you know, Hissing and popping is normal on frost free refrigerators, it is the defrost heater, in this case. I would check these following areas to address any other abnormal noises.
If the level of the unit is not adjusted to proper specs, this will create an unstable operating condition, causing many noises to emit from the units structure. inspect the unit for proper level. adjust if needed. Next will be the drain pan. Once removed for cleaning, the pan must be replaced in position correctly. If not, the pan will rattle against the compressor, causing a ping or rattle.Simply reposition the tray if this is the case. The third possible issue will be the condenser fan. The condenser fan is located behind the refrigerator. It may be necessary to remove an access panel to reach it. This fan has a shroud, and if the fan blade becomes warped, it will rub against the shroud, causing noise. This fan blade is whole,and it can be removed and replaced if this is the case. Ok, the fourth problem spot will be the evaporator fan.
The evaporator fan is located at the back of the freezer. It may be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice maker and the rear inside panel of the freezer. The rear panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. Check the fan for warped blades. if the blades are warped or mis-aligned, replace it. This fan also is protected by a shroud as well, and it will make noise if the fan blade is damaged.
Last, i would move on to the compressor mounts. This is the most common spot for noise overtime. The compressor sits on rubber mountings. Those rubber mountings are designed to absorb vibration from the compressor. As the mountings age, they can become hard or disintegrate. When this happens, the compressor vibration is transmitted to the refrigerator structure and it can cause noise.
The compressor is located in the rear. It may be necessary to remove an access panel to get to the compressor.
Locate the compressor and remove the screw or retaining clip of just one of the compressor mounts.Using a pry bar, lift up the compressor enough to slip out the rubber mount. Inspect the mount for deterioration. The rubber should be firm but not rigid. If the mount is crumbling or hard, it should be replaced.
This concludes the inspection procedure. Follow carefully, and replace any failed or damaged device.....
Posted on Dec 20, 2009
Is the beeping a door or temp alarm? You can press power cool and power freeze buttons at the same time and you should get a single LED indication and then after 30 seconds the
display should return to normal. NOTE the position of that single LED should you see it.
1) Self-Diagnostics in the initial Power ON
1-1)The control board performs a self diagnostics test within 1 second and check out the temperature sensors abilities.
1-2) If a sensor failure occurs, a corresponding LED segment will blink with a beep.
1-3) When a LED segment blinks, only the cancellation function (Press Power Freeze and Power Cool buttons
simultaneously for 8 seconds) is acceptable.
1-4) After a replacement of bad sensor or a cancellation of this function, this self diagnostics will end.
2) Self-Diagnostics in the normal operation
2-1) To select this function, press Power Freeze and Power Cool buttons simultaneously for 8 seconds with an audible tone.
2-2) In the self diagnostic mode, only corresponding LED segments will be illuminated (see the check list on the next page) <NOT in this post Interpreting LED position = these errors below. You will need to pass on / reply with exact position of the LED that you see
1 ICE MAKER SENSOR
2 REFRIGERATOR SENSOR
3 REFRIGERATOR DEFROST SENSOR
4 REFRIGERATOR FAN ERROR
5 ICE MAKER function error
6 CoolSelect ZoneTM SENSOR
7 REFRIGERATOR DEFROST ERROR
9 FREEZER SENSOR
10 FREEZER DEFROST ERROR
11 FREEZER FAN ERROR
12 CONDENSER FAN ERROR
13 FREEZER DEFROST ERROR
2-3) After a 30 second illumination of error signal, the system will return to the normal operation.
I suspect a thermistor problem.
The unit will self diagnose if you unplug it for 15 to 20 minutes and then plug it back in. ANY errors will be displayed by a single LED (digit) indication during the first 14 seconds after you plug in the unit.
You must wait that 15 - 20 minutes of unplugged time to prevent the compressor overload from tripping due to high coolant pressures. System must stabilize first to prevent damage to your unit.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Posted on Nov 08, 2010
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