Question about Dishwashers

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I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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  • sirenpete Jan 30, 2017

    Water Hammer is caused by the flow of water being suddenly shut off, as by the solenoid valve in the dishwasher. The kinetic energy of the flowing water cannot suddenly disappear, and it causes an instantaneous increase in the pressure inside the pipe, leading to expansion of the pipe and/or movement along its length. The kinetic energy of the water is converted to heat (via the more or less elastic expansion of the copper pipe. The usual amelioration of water hammer is by a plumbing fitting called a water hammer arrestor, which functions very like the shock absorber in a car. As at Janurary 2017, this url has a fair explanation and a picture.
    http://plumbing.about.com/od/basics/a/Wa...

    The devices are cheap, easily (but illegally) fitted by you, or easily, (but legally and expensively) fitted by a plumber and are fairly successful. They are less than a complete fix if the pressure is too high to begin with, so the final solution may be an arrestor plus a pressure reducing valve (PRV). Usually the arrestor is enough.

    Because many dishwashers have a hot and cold inlet, you may need to fit one on each. Fit as close to the source of the hammer as you can.

  • Cecil Deyzel Feb 11, 2017

    Replace your tap that supplies the water to your machine ... a loose valve in the tap can cause the 'hammer' effect

  • Robert Stacey
    Robert Stacey Apr 09, 2017

    where do you get that it is ******* to work on a dishwasher but for a plumber it isn't

  • Robert Stacey
    Robert Stacey Apr 09, 2017

    the starred word is *******

  • Steve Forbes Apr 30, 2017

    R.S.,In certain areas some plumbing jobs require a permit which only a licensed plumber can obtain. It's a by-law offense. (nobody really cares unless you flood the place and try to make an insurance claim)

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    Jessica Arch Jun 02, 2017

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  • Manny Cruz Jun 02, 2017

    Go to the front of your house and open the closest hose bin valve and then turn off your main line. Let it run on off until most of the waterm in the system drains out. Don't close the hose bibb yet. What it's happening is the air in the system is purging out. You can sometimes hear the air comin out. What I do most of the times is open closest valve to the problem area, in your case, I would open the hot side of the kitchen faucet and then slowly turn on your main shutoff valve, not to slow but not to fast either, that's one reason you get water hammering. Once you see a good glow of water turn off hose bibb and how inside and wait till you get a full blast of water coming out from the jot side. You're differently will hear air coming out and water after. After that turn off faucet. If that doesnt solve it, you might have someone go under your house and see if the pipe is fastened securely.

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  • Rj Ti
    Rj Ti Jun 13, 2017

    The other option would be a filter for the dishwasher is clogged. Some have a small filter for the water inlet that gets clogged with bits debris.

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    Robert F. Crocker Jul 06, 2017

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    austin clay youngblood Jul 11, 2017

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  • Chuck Fathers
    Chuck Fathers Jul 22, 2017

    The best way I know is just add about a six inch piece of 1/2 pex plugged at one end just before the braided line. This is normally caused by the shut off valve under the dishwasher left front where the water enters the dishwasher.

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  • Neil Cadden Sep 03, 2017

    Water hammer is result of shutting off water quickly. Yes you can replace the inlet valve but a simpler way is to fit a mini arrestor onto the tap. This device is a small unit with an air chamber and as the water stops any hammer is taken up by the compression of the air. Its operation is much like a shock absorber on a car. These mini arrestors can be purchased from plumbing suppliers or most major hardware outlets, they just screw onto the tap and the dishwasher (or other appliance) attaches to the arrestor.

  • Gerald blair Sep 16, 2017

    Get a new one sorry

  • Eric Andersen Sep 18, 2017

    Generally home plumbing has hammer traps hard plumbed in with an upward dead leg. Over time air is dissolved into the water in the dead leg which fills the dead leg with water. Completely draining your house water system will renew the air in the traps and restore functionality to the hammer trap.

  • Kevin Jolicoeur
    Kevin Jolicoeur Sep 25, 2017

    If draining your entire house does not work you can try closing the valve a little for the feed for your dishwasher. It will work fine if you cut some of the pressure down a bit. Dishwashers have a float to make sure there is enough water in the bottom of the pan. So slowing the feed pressure will not hurt it. Hope this helps.

  • Kevin Jolicoeur
    Kevin Jolicoeur Sep 25, 2017

    If draining your entire house does not work you can try closing the valve a little for the feed for your dishwasher. It will work fine if you cut some of the pressure down a bit. Dishwashers have a float to make sure there is enough water in the bottom of the pan. So slowing the feed pressure will not hurt it. Hope this helps.

  • ian mcfie
    ian mcfie Sep 25, 2017

    what did you have done ,new before this happened.

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    Roy J. Fischer Oct 04, 2017

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    Wilbert Thompson Oct 11, 2017

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  • Al
    Al Nov 04, 2017

    In most cases of hammering in a dishwasher fill is, either the water pressure is too low or the valve is damaged or defective.

  • Michael Harrison
    Michael Harrison Nov 30, 2017

    It also can be air in your system, however, look into this:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_hamm...

    Do you have a well system?

  • Michael Harrison
    Michael Harrison Nov 30, 2017

    if so , do you have aexpansion tank and blow off valve....I bringing it back to the beginning/basics...It is most likely the valve in the dishwasher.

    Furthermore, look into Asurion Insurance...covers appliances:https://www.asurion.com/extended-warrant...

  • kenneth
    kenneth Jan 30, 2018

    - do they flash lik all on one side then the other? Start a cycle, then open the door. Do the lights flash the same way when you open the door as when it stops? if soyou may have a door that needs to be adjusted so it closes better. when the cycle ends, is there any standing water in the bottom? if so you may ...

  • rich2481 Feb 11, 2018

    Run a gallon of white vinegar through a short wash cycle. most likely the solenoid is going bad but the vinegar will clean out the parts.

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Your fill up valve is malfunctioning.replace it.Iits throttling your water to various pressures.it also could be the screen that filters your water before it reaches the valve.

Posted on Sep 03, 2017

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It is called water hammer and it is caused by a solenoid vale that is shutting the flow of water off fast when it closes. This creates a shock to the piping and sounds like a hammer hitting the pipes it can break the solder joints on copper pipes. The cure is to install a shock absorber in the hot water line somewhere between the hot water heater and the appliances that have a solenoid shutoff valve.

Posted on Nov 03, 2017

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Water hammer is a plumbing issue. You may hear it when the dishwasher fills but the problem is in your pipes.

Posted on Feb 11, 2018

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Install a water hammer absorber in-line with the inlet.

Posted on Nov 03, 2017

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Go to the front of your house and open the closest hose bin valve and then turn off your main line. Let it run on off until most of the waterm in the system drains out. Don't close the hose bibb yet. What it's happening is the air in the system is purging out. You can sometimes hear the air comin out. What I do most of the times is open closest valve to the problem area, in your case, I would open the hot side of the kitchen faucet and then slowly turn on your main shutoff valve, not to slow but not to fast either, that's one reason you get water hammering. Once you see a good glow of water turn off hose bibb and how inside and wait till you get a full blast of water coming out from the jot side. You're differently will hear air coming out and water after. After that turn off faucet. If that doesnt solve it, you might have someone go under your house and see if the pipe is fastened securely.


Posted on Jun 02, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • paul
    paul Jun 02, 2017

    It sounds like u have a partially closed valve in ur system. A likely scenario also could be ur toilet float acting up. Open the toilet tank cover and watch it during dishwasher fill up. And check outside Fawcett's and any valves in the house to make sure none are partially open. A loose valve washer will cause this also

  • JOn Puckett
    JOn Puckett Oct 03, 2017

    Disconnect and clean screen on fill line.

  • Anonymous Nov 20, 2017

    For those reading this - remove the water hoses and clean the screens where the hose attaches to the washer.
    Do the sane on your sinks and shower heads.
    Geese.......

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
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Whistling sound


Kind of hard to tell without hearing it. Also when does it occur? During the fill portion of the cycle? During the main wash period? Or during the drain portion of the cycle? Also how old is this dishwasher?
If I had to guess (and I do, since I don't have the answers to the above questions), I would think that the bearings of the main wash motor were going bad; especially if the dishwasher is more than 7 or 8 years of age.

May 16, 2015 | Dishwashers

1 Answer

Have a shu 4322 dishwasher it fills with water and drains but the spray arms do not spray. have not tried anything yet.this dishwasher is not hooked up. it was given to me by a friend who replaced all his...


Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.


There was indeed a recall involving the control replacement nearly two years ago now if I recall.

As for checking into the present issue ( it doesn`t sound like anything to do with the control based on your description ) it sounds like the pump impeller may have become stuck. Did the dishwasher sit idle or in storage unused for a period of time ?

I have a service bulletin I could send you via email regarding remedying that issue of stuck impeller if you contact me at macmarkus@live.ca

I`d suggest you run the dishwasher through a diagnostic, but either procedure will require hooking it up.

To do this test/diagnostic on the SHU4322 series machine, it is as follows...

To start test program, press and hold both REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ "20" = version 0 without jumper).

When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display alone).

Cycle Countdown display will show "88" when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and "8h" when Delay Start button is pressed.
To start testing, press both the REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD buttons a second time.

When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ "6" = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault 1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)

0 = No faults detected
1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault
2 = Heating fault
4 = Filling fault
8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)


To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.

i.e.

86c0a8d.jpg

If water level switch has failed (opened), display will show fault code "4" and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won't be completed. If flow switch has failed (opened), display will show "0", water won't heat (to 150?F) and water won't stop circulating. If NTC probe has failed (opened), display will show fault code "8" immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.


What needs to be done to solve the problem will depend on the results/findings of the dianostic, so let me know what you find and we can go from there.

Either way keep me in the loop and I`ll assist you the best I can. Thank you for choosing FixYa and good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Oct 10, 2010 | Bosch 24 in. SHU43 Built-in Dishwasher

1 Answer

The dishwasher will start to cycle. I can hear the water begin to run. I hear a click and at the time the dishwasher should start to run the cleaning cycle. During the cleaning cycle the dishwasher will...


This is probably okay, you have clock like motions running the motor electric contacts. There needs to be a delay between some cycles or shorting will occur. The motor on some designs, for example. is reversed to pump out water. to have this work long term, a delay is inherent and not a concern.

Sep 17, 2010 | Viking 24 in. Professional Series VUD040...

1 Answer

Stops during cycle says error has occurred


doubt he actually back flushed the line. I bet that after he cleared the filter and removed debris under the filter, he started a quick cycle, then after the dishwasher was filled, he pressed the two buttons together that make up "Cancel" , held for 3 seconds and the unit automatically began to pump the water out and prepared to shutdown.
The cancel button can be used that way anytime it is needed.
Hope that helps.

Apr 03, 2010 | LG Dishwashers

1 Answer

Not filling with enough water only filling partway


The fill cycle is a set time and not measured. Either your water pressure is low at the dishwasher or the screen on the fill valve is partially blocked keeping the correct amount of water from entering during the fill cycle.
Eric

Jan 11, 2010 | Kenmore 18 in. 14432 / 14439 Built-in...

2 Answers

Kitchenaid Dishwasher makes jack hammer sound when filling


Check the power to the valve actuator with a meter. If the power is not fluctuation (causing the valve to open and close quickly) then the problem is likely "water hammer" in the piping leading to the DW. Water hammer occurs when a fast flow of water turns a corner in the piping. The solution is too find where the pipe is vibrating and add support. Another way to eliminate water hammer is to install a shock tube on the pipe. It is filled with air and acts as a shock absorber when the water hammers. They are available at Home Depot, Lowes, plumbing supply places, etc. Another way to make a shock absorber is to install a tee in a horizontal part of the pipe with an 18 inch+ piece of pipe installed vertically and capped at the top. Air gets trapped in the vertical pipe and cushions the vibration. You might be able to do this in the space behind the DW before the pipe connects to the DW. The shock tube is smaller and does not have to be vertical so if space is an issue that may be the way to go.

Sep 18, 2009 | KitchenAid 24 in. KUDP02CR Built-in...

1 Answer

Dishwasher wont start washing but start light is flashing 11 times


hi...
The cause of the problem is an insufficient rise in water temperature during a pre-set time period. The heater fault-detection program that was added to the electronic control is designed to shut down the dishwasher if the board-test for proper water temperature rise is not sufficient.
The dishwasher run cycle was modified to add 8 minutes 45 seconds of heat at the beginning of the main wash cycle. If the inlet water at the thermistor is below 110°F, the thermistor looks for a water rise of 4°F. If the inlet water is over 110°F, the test is for an increase of 2°F. If the temperature rise is below specifications, the unit will drain and the clean light will blink seven times.
You will need to identify possible causes of insufficient temperature rise. These causes may include checking the wiring to/failure of the control, the heating element, the thermistor, the inlet valve, door switch, motor or capacitor. Make sure that water is not siphoning during fill. Once the heater fault detection is triggered and the condition resolved, the electronic control must be reset by initiating a special diagnostic cycle. Use the Product Tech Sheet shipped with each dishwasher — you’ll find it behind the kickplates — to identify the correct cycle sequence. The rapid advance cycle will not properly reset the electronic control....

thank u
rate me

Jul 22, 2009 | Dishwashers

1 Answer

Bosch SHU 6800 Water hot at sink only luke warm at the washer


BAD CONTROL BOARD TO TEST TO SEE IF THIS IS THE ISSUE RUN TEST PROGRAM
To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by
pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ “20” = version 0 without jumper). When
wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and
REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display
alone). Cycle Countdown display will show "88" when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and "8h" when Delay Start
button is pressed.
To start testing, press both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended,
Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added
together, (e.g./ “6” = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil,
measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays
at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "4" and unit will continually fill and drain where
testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show "0", water won't heat (to 150ºF) and
water won’t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "8" immediately and
testing will end shortly after water has started circulating

Jul 18, 2009 | Bosch 24 in. SHU43 Built-in Dishwasher

2 Answers

Water fills up dishwasher after complete maybe a day or two later


Sound like the hot water sonenoid is stuck in the open position. Locate this solenoid and tap it lightly with a small hammer while the hot water is open. If it does not stop it will beneficial to have this part replaced. I hope this will help.

Jan 17, 2009 | Kenmore 24 in. 15932 Built-in Dishwasher

3 Answers

Bosch


f is fill fault to much or not enough water or water in the sump white plastic base the f code will not go away until you solve the problem when the f code shows up the drain motor will run all of the time

Apr 01, 2006 | Bosch 24 in. SHU6802UC / SHU6806UC...

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