Question about Bosch Dishwashers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Dishwasher keeps running
I have seen this several times, and all of the times it has a bad control board. usually if you take the control board out, you can see a visibly burnt spot on the back of it wher a connection has melted. Another possible slowrun time problem could be that the water coming into the dishwasher when it fills is not hot. If it isnt hot, it takes the dishwasher longer to heat the water to temp, and therfore it runs longer. Is the water coming out of your tap reasonably hot? if not you may need to turn up your water heater settings. But if nobody has messed with the water heater, or the tap where the dishwasher is attached and the problem just started then thats probably not it. Good Luck!
Posted on Nov 05, 2006
Most of the dishwasher has a Thermal hold period in which the machine will not advance to the next cycle until the water temperature reaches a specific degree. it is possible that your aqwa sensor/or heater is bad OR as in most of the cases, the Timer relay that is responsible in turning the heater on is stuck open, in this case you need a new timer. So,Check Timer/Aqua sensor/Heater
Posted on Aug 15, 2008
Introduction: This may work for your problem, but only if you're finding that you cannot get further water to flow into your machine. If your machine fills, OK, then this ISN'T a solution to your problem.
I have a Bosch SHV. My sink drain backed up, and the water accumulating in the sink then migrated to the dishwasher, through the drain pipe, causing the dishwasher to fill up and, it turned out, overflow a little. When I turned on the dishwasher, the water drained, but no new, clean water came through the hot water pipe. The drain just kept running, but nothing else happened.
Here's what happened. Under the main chamber of the dishwasher, by three inches or more, is a white plastic tray. It sits almost at the floor, and it may not be obvious that it's a tray capable of holding water. The overflow water spilled into that tray, which in turn caused a float in the far left side of the tray to lift (the way a toilet float lifts when the water fills in a toilet tank) and shut off the water intake valve (like the toilet float shuts off the toilet water flow). So long as that valve is closed, your machine will not run.
STOP: disconnect power supply at this point for safety.
To see the white plastic tray and thereby fix the problem, you'll need to take off the BLACK TOE-KICK (attached on my unit by two star-head screws at its bottom) and, possibly , the OUTER PANEL OF THE DISHWASHER DOOR (in my case, a custom wood panel (attached by a few screws through the inner side of the door, two screws that are accessed by popping off little--smaller than a dime size--covers on the sides of the doors, and then the door panel lifts up and out). (I took the outer panel off, but I can't remember if I would have had to reach into the white tray without doing so.)
Once you do that, you can see the white plastic tray. It doesn't come out--at least not without removing the entire machine--so try this. You can take your fingers and feel over and into the tray. You'll probably feel the water--I did. Look at the far left of the tray with a flashlight. Back there you'll see a flat, round, 3-inch diameter piece of white plastic sitting at the bottom of the tray. To its center is a generally U-shaped lever looking device, which, at its far left end, is connected to a red stick pointing up into the machine. When water goes into the tray, the float rises, causing the U-shaped lever to rise, causing the red stick to raise, which (though I couldn't see it) causes an electrical signal to run to, and shut, the valve for your water intake.
I took paper towels, and then a narrowly cut sponge, to sop up the water in the tray. I then took my shop vac and, using it as a blower, blew what little water was left right out. You might be able to use a hair dryer, but first sop out what you can or it'll take forever. Once you've done that, put everything back together and plug your dishwasher back in. My buttons are at the top panel. To reset, hold down the two buttons marked for clear drain for three seconds and release. You should be able to start up then. It took 15 seconds before the water started to run, but it did and the machine works fine again.
Interesting note: The valve that stopped the water from flowing in automatically opened once I got the water out of the tray. You don't need to reset the valve.
Posted on May 09, 2009
An error 24 code on your Bosch dishwasher means that you have a clog or that your pump is bad. Check and clean out your airgap. If that doesn’t work and your machine is still under warranty, call Bosch. Bosch won’t tell you what the error code means, only that you need a service call, and they will then give you some phone numbers for Bosch authorized appliance repair places, one of which was Mr. Appliance. The appliance repair place will want to put in a new part whether you need it or not so that they can get paid by Bosch. I found this out the hard way. Hey Bosch, be smart and tell your customers what the error codes mean so that they are informed and you don’t look like you are trying to rip them off. Leave that to Mr. Appliance. You can always remind the customer that working on the actual dishwasher voids the warranty. It doesn’t take a rocket scientist to figure out how to clean out the airgap, which isn’t a part of the dishwasher, but rather part of your plumbing connected to the dishwasher. I suspected this to begin with, but because you told me I needed a service call, I had to assume it was beyond basic owner maintenance. Great way for you to flush money down the toilet and look bad doing so.
Posted on Apr 30, 2010
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