The fan is running even though the oven is off. Pyrolitic lights are on, although oven is cold. There is a flashing light to the left of the time display panel.

SOURCE: Neff u1271 oven not heating

Found the fault. It's the heat ring in the main oven. MAKE SURE THE MAINS POWER IS OFF PRIOR TO COMMENCING THIS WORK!!!!! 1.Simply remove the four screws that fix the fan surround in the main oven. 2.Remove the rear cover fixing screws and remove the rear cover. ( the cable passes through this so just rest it to one side ). 3.Remove the two push on spade connectors from the heater element ( positioned just down and to the right of the fan assembly ). 4.Remove the four heater element fixing screws from inside the main oven. 5. The tricky bit. . . There is one more fixing at the top of the fan in the main oven. I could not get the fan off its spindle, but the next step sorted this out. 6.Remove the three fan fixings from the rear of the oven. This allows the fan to wobble/move enough in the oven to remove the final heater fixing screw at the top of the fan. 7.Pull the heater element into the main oven. No doubt it has a very grey and flakey appearance to part of it! 8.Buy a new one and replace it in reverse order, remembering to replace all fixing screws as you go. 9. If you forget which way the cables on the heater element go, the one with the red marks on it goes to the left as you look at the back of the oven from the outside. ( nearest the fan assembly ) I know this all looks a bit long winded, but it really is quite simple if you follow the notes above! Hope this helps someone. Might just save a ridiculous call out charge from the professionals!!!! Best of luck, Keith.

SOURCE: Display Panel Light

you can get it from maytag or places like repairclinic.com. you can use their seach page you just put in the model number and look up the part number.

Barry Coates

• 3463 Answers
• Posted on Dec 07, 2008

SOURCE: oven not heating but the fan is working and clock flashing auto

You need to rest the timer. to get it off auto,otherwise the oven will not work.
Refer to your instructions.

SOURCE: Oven not working

I had the same problem. At the back of the stove is a plastic cover with thermal overload written on it.
Switch off your power.Remove the cover, pull out the two luggs and connect the two luggs straight to each other. Make sure the oven knobbs are in the off position. turn on the power. If your oven clock etc. comes on the thermal overload is faulty and needs to be replaced. It is fixed to the stove by a screw from the inside of the oven, so open the door and remove screw to remove thermal overload at the back of oven. Take sample to electrical shop and replace. DO NOT USE OVEN WITHOUT THERMAL OVERLOAD.

Dennis Thatcher

• 54 Answers
• Posted on Oct 12, 2009

SOURCE: Jenn-Air JJW8530 LCD panel does not light up

BrianGem posted a great solution back in May of '08, I just completed that fix on my own Jenn air, took me about 30 minutes once I got the correct capacitor.
The display board apparently has a weak spot in the design, most likely heat related, (probably low priced components from offshore sources)
Fix: Replace heat damaged capacitor labeled C3 on display board, Hard part will be obtaining the 35Volt 68uF capacitor, I'm lucky enough to have a Brother in the electronics design field who found me a couple of high reliability caps designed for hot applications, He does not recommend changing sizes without design review for fear of overloading another component, however several other posts have indicated that a 35V 100mF cap has worked fine for them.
TURN OFF POWER TO OVEN PRIOR TO STARTING ANY REPAIRS.
My control panel was attached to the oven with 4 screws accessed from above the top oven door, the panel slid up about 1/2 " and lifted off, Unplug the ribbon cables and the panel can be removed to a convenient work surface. The display board itself is mounted with 4 screws and connected with a wide flat ribbon cable, the suspect capacitor is surface mounted to the reverse side of the board, two plastic clips need to be released (gently) and the ribbon cable unplugged. Capacitor is likely discolored or leaking, Using as small a soldering iron as you can find De-solder it and replace with new, match polarity marks and don’t use any more solder than needed.
If you run into trouble drop me an e-mail to [email protected] and I’ll try to help.
Good luck.
Thanks for this site..

Link to Photo sequence of capacitor replacement (Captions still will not link):
http://picasaweb.google.com/dltatsjc/Photos?authkey=Gv1sRgCJPKv9CRgsXxNA