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Preparing the units - Fig. 1
? The safe operation of this appliance can only be guaranteed if
it has been installed to a professional standard in accordance
with these installation instructions. The installer is liable for
damage incurred as a result of incorrect installation.
? Fitted units must be heat-resistant up to 90 °C, and
neighbouring unit fronts up to 70 °C.
? Cut-out work on the units and worktop should be performed
before fitting the appliances. Remove any shavings or the function of the electrical components may be impaired. ? Caution during installation. Parts that are accessible during installation may have sharp edges. Wear protective gloves to prevent cuts ? The power socket for the appliance must either be located in the hatched area B or else away from the installation space. ? A gap of 5 mm is required between the appliance and surrounding unit fronts. ? Secure freestanding units to the wall using a standard bracket C. Appliance under the worktop - Fig. 1 There must be a ventilation cut-out made in the intermediate floor of the surround unit. Secure the worktop to the fitted units. If a fitted oven is to be built in under a hob, pay attention to the hob installation instructions. Appliance in a tall unit - Fig. 2 The appliance may also be installed in a tall unit. There must be a gap between the intermediate floors and the mounting wall of approx. 20 mm in order to provide ventilation to the oven. Only fit the appliance at a height where removing baking trays does not present a problem. Corner installation Fig. 3 To ensure that the appliance door can be opened in the case of corner installation, take account of dimension D. Dimension E is dependent on the thickness of the unit front under the handle. Connecting the appliance to the power supply Only allow a licenced professional to connect the appliance. National regulations apply as well as those of the local electricity supplier. The appliance must be disconnected from the power supply for all installation work. The appliance corresponds to protection class I and may only be operated with a protective earth connection. Power cord: Type H05 VVF or higher rated. The yellow/green wire for the PE connection must be 10 mm longer than the other wires on the appliance side. During installation, an all-pole isolating switch with a contact gap of at least 3 mm must be present, or the appliance must be connected via a three-pin earthed plug. This must be accessible after installation. Contact protection must be ensured by the installation. Identify the phase and neutral conductors in the socket. Incorrect connection may cause damage to the appliance. Only connect as per the connection diagram. See the rating plate for the voltage. Position the appliance in front of the units in readiness for connection. The connecting cable must be sufficiently long. Securing the appliance Fig. 4 ? Fully insert the appliance and centre it. ? Screw the appliance into place. ? The gap between the worktop and the appliance must not be closed by additional battens. Removal Disconnect the appliance from the power supply. Undo the securing screws. Raise the appliance slightly and pull it out completely
The necessary data for your installer is on
the rating plate. The rating plate is on the back side on oven and on the bottom side on hob. Never remove
the rating plate from the appliance cavity.
Make sure that the electrical information on
the rating plate agrees with the power
supply. If not, contact an electrician
All electrical connections should be made by
a qualified electrician.
The appliance must be earthed.
Does the unit have enough power to run (220V), also above you only mentioned convection? So is this the only cycle you have issues with? So, bake and broil work fine? The reasons for the question are they function work together for preheat. If all you elements are having issue, then check source of power to element and relay power up at board for the issue. Did this issue start after a cycle (self clean)? Check breaker for 220V, check supply to oven 220V, check power from relay / clock for 220V. If all this is good, check the elements for 220V (use caution when doing this). Get me more information and we can solve this, I seek to locate the problem by looking for power or lack of.
I am under the assumption you understand electricity and how to work with it. If not, please seek a service person to preform these tests or repair.
Look forward in hearing back from you on the progress.
If the hob is tripping the RCB or MCB on the consumer unit, there is a fault, usually in the elements or halogon heaters, you will need a multimeter to define but please ISOLATE FROM MAINS POWER BEFORE OPENING ANY PANEL
Some electrical knowledge would be helpful, check each element seperatly, you may have to carefuly disconect each heater on the hob, unless you know which blows the mcb, check all connectings to see thay are secure, work round the hab reostates, make sure there is no shorts to ground from elements, with temp control down at zero. Check wiring into mains as a loose connection will cause heat and mcb to trip.
If it is wired into the same outlet as an oven disconnect oven in case the other appliance is causing the problem. it is realy a question of eliminating causes one at a time, working round the affending appliance to define what is the cause.
Hope this is helpful
That has nothing to do with the number of burners and everything to do with your local voltage supply. If the local supply is 110v then that's what the burner will use and likewise with 220v.
If you meant to ask how many amps the burner will draw then that will depend upon local voltage AND the rated Wattage of the burner: as you have quoted neither of these nor the precise model of Kenmore cooker/hob I cannot provide an answer.
There are possibly a number of options. It could be that in wiring the hob in you have disturbed the wiring for the oven. Normally the oven works off the main oven control switch on the panel and the hob could be wired into something else.
Is the oven totally dead no power at all for everything, or is the clock running but the oven will not switch on?
On many models it's a single 1.5v AA battery and is somewhere under the lower front edge of the unit. If it's a cooker/range you can access it by pulling the cooker forward, tipping it back and supporting it. Built in ovens (and hobs) usually have mains-power and supply the igniter circuit via a transformer, but on the few built in ovens without mains power the battery is usually at the bottom of the unit close to the front. Depending on the design either the entire oven has to be partially withdrawn from the housing or there is often a removable air inlet panel or grille with the battery holder just behind.
Note that because of the location, the battery holder can be hard to find due to being encased in the inevitable gunge and muck which builds up in these areas, so you may want to allow extra time to clean most of this off.