Question about Beko Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Our beko frost free fridge
the thermostat in the fridge is turning off your compressor before the freezer has completed its job.this is because it doesnt care about the freezer temperature only the temperature where its located in this case the fridge,try completely defrosting the fridge and restarting it
Posted on Aug 13, 2008
SOURCE: no fan or heat
Hello..... have you (a) checked that you have power going to the oven...(b)...With the power to the oven switched off open the terminal block (where the cable from your socket enters the oven) check that all connections are secure....(c) remove the rear panel of the oven and check that the safety stat is ok.......(usually small square white or gray unit wit two wires running to it found on rear of main oven...it is usually fixed to a bracket or directly fixed to the cabinet...test for continuity with a multimeter if open circuit ..that is no meter reading relpace it
regards Sir Galahad
Posted on Aug 27, 2009
if the freezer is in a cold place (below operating temp of freezer)the fan housing is the first to freeze.solution is move it to a warmer room.a common fault with freezers in garages.....
Posted on Feb 05, 2010
I have the same
model + problem. You should not need
to defrost this model manually if it's working correctly, but the ice build up you
describe is probably due to a blocked
pipe in the auto-defrost system at the back. You need to defrost properly to
Behind the upper freezer drawer there's an aluminium tray behind a plastic grille. Every few days this tray warms up to melt any accumulated ice behind this plastic grille (full height of the freezer). A pipe should take the meltwater down to a plastic tray below (pipe + plastic tray are visible if you take the lower panel off the back). Your problem is too much ice blocking that pipe: the heater can't cope and it doesn't melt, so the ice 'cascades' down the back behind the bottom drawer.
When you manually defrost, you must ensure that this pipe is clear, otherwise the auto-defrost won't work, and you may have to defrost manually again within days.
I have found that the best way to defrost the pipe is to remove the lower back panel, disconnect the corrugated flexible plastic pipe from the stub that comes from the bottom of the freezer, + pump steam into the stub (gently) using a hand-held steamer (with tube + nozzle). You don't have to empty the freezer or move your food as the door stays closed, and no steam gets into the freezer until the pipe is unblocked. Be sure to unplug the freezer before taking the back off! [There is a fan in this area that could start up without warning]
Check how much of the pipe is blocked by gentle probing with a pencil: the aluminium tray is about 105mm above the bottom of the stub. This measurement is important…
When the pipe is clear, there may still be too much ice in the aluminium tray above (not sure how much is 'too much') if you only created a narrow 'chimney' though the block of ice (likely to get blocked again). You need to widen that chimney by melting more of the ice in the aluminium tray. I use a simple steam nozzle made from an old-fashioned Bic pen with a couple of 1mm holes drilled just below the coloured bung at the end. This directs steam onto the walls of the 'chimney' rather than upwards.
There's no point steaming the walls of the plastic 'stub' pipe, so only use the home-made nozzle when your probe reaches 105mm (i.e. when you have melted all the ice in the plastic stub tube but before your 'chimney' has broken through the block of ice in the aluminium tray). If you judge this right, you'll melt almost all of the ice under a still-frozen top surface: no steam will get into the freezer and your food will stay frozen. With a probe it will be clear when you've broken through the top surface of the ice. When you have done so, it's time to look inside the freezer to see how well you have cleared the aluminium tray.
It's perfectly feasible to get all this done in 30 minutes.
Don't forget to replace the corrugated plastic pipe + valve at the bottom. It stops humid air from going into the freezer and icing up in exactly the area we've just been defrosting.
Take a lot of care with steam jets as they can burn you badly. You should check a first aid website so you know what to do BEFORE it happens.
Some of these tips may be helpful: (1) run the freezer at -18 degrees (the 'warmest' setting) so it's not working so hard. (2) Leave a big gap (>100mm) between the back of the freezer and the wall. (3) Clean the matrix of delicate tubes to the left of the fan whilst you have the back off [a small bottle brush is ideal; remove the fan for better access]. (4) Put something between the middle of the freezer and the wall to prevent the warm air that's being blown out behind the fridge from being sucked into the air intake behind the freezer (there is a baffle built in underneath, but nothing behind. (5) Mount the fan on spacers (with longer screws) so that it's closer to the heat exchanger… this means that a larger area of grille can act as an air intake. (6) Raise the unit off the floor a little to free up the air intake path beneath the freezer.
Posted on May 10, 2010
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Aug 29, 2017 | Beko Refrigerators
Other Beko branded models and all Beko frost free fridge freezers manufactured after this date are unaffected.
Affected model numbers:
Jul 06, 2011 | Washing Machines
Jul 03, 2011 | Refrigerators
Aug 11, 2010 | Refrigerators
Feb 08, 2010 | Refrigerators
Oct 12, 2009 | Freezers
Apr 12, 2009 | Freezers
Mar 25, 2009 | Haier 5 cu. ft. / 142 liter Chest Freezer...
Jan 24, 2009 | Beko 24 in. D3421F Free-standing...
Aug 12, 2008 | Refrigerators
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