Question about Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The ice maker is a separate appliance within the freezer section. Please see the How things Work section of our website to learn about the normal functioning of ice makers. Some common problems with ice makers are:
The ice maker has completely stopped producing ice
The ice maker is producing ice poorly
The ice maker has completely stopped producing ice Check to see whether the ice maker has been turned off. Here's how to check. Look for a wire along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit like a coat hanger. If this wire is in the raised position, the ice maker is turned off. On some units you simply lower the wire to the down position to turn the ice maker on. On others, you lower a small red plastic lever to lower the wire. If the wire is in the proper position check the freezer temperature, it should be between 0-8 degrees Fahranheit. If it is warmer than 10-12 degrees, the ice maker may not produce any ice. Check your door seals and thermostat, repair/replace as necessary.
The ice maker is producing ice poorly When an ice maker is producing ice poorly--when it produces just a few cubes or none, or when the cubes are too small--it's usually because of a clogged water line or a defective water inlet valve.
First, check the water line attached to the back of the refrigerator for good water flow. To do that, first turn off the water supply valve. Then remove the water line from the back of the refrigerator. Next, place the water line into a bucket and momentarily turn the water valve back on to test the flow. If the flow is poor, you need to repair, clean, or replace the tubing or the shut-off valve that supplies the water. If the flow is good, you may have to replace the water inlet valve.
There's an ice- or water-dispensing problem The ice and water-dispensing system of your refrigerator is quite complex. Many components work together to provide the ice and water. Aside from a simple problem of a leaky water tube or a jammed ice chute, most other components are not user serviceable. We suggest that you contact a qualified appliance repair technician for such repairs.
Posted on Jan 16, 2009
first off, make sure its under 17F in freezer as icemaker will not start above this...you need to make sure the icemaker is coming on..if so, you may just have a bad water valve. I'd put four ounces of water into the mold and see if it starts by itself dumping out your ice. if it dumps out your ice..look to see if the inlet tube that brings water into your i/m is not frozen up with ice in it..if it is, defrost with hair dryer and wait and see if it starts to work ok dumping ice.if it starts to work ok..replace fill valve..
If you find everything looking normal and your sure no ice plug in fill tube..you can try to start i/m manually..if your confident enough to work with tools and electricity...find the T and H they are close to each other on front of i/m. take an insulated wire and make a jumper that each end has 1/2 of end stripped of to go into i/m T and H..keep in there for 30 seconds and i/m should start on its own..remove jumper and either put i/m back or be ready to catch water should it come on. if no letters on front of i/m just gears. find the small 5/16 gear and turn until rake arm starts to come up. this i/m should start on its own ... if it starts and runs fills, replace i/m...if it starts , but does not fill..your inlet valve may be bad. it helps to have a volt meter for this.. you can remove top and find valve up there or its under the bottom front vent plate. locate wires that go onto valve. use your volt meter to check for 111-130 volts when you restart your i/m as already talked about. remember, it will take several minutes before you notice anything..the i/m needs to cycle first and get to the spot it fills..if you get power and no water and your sure there is water..the inlet valve is bad...
Posted on Jul 26, 2009
The auger arm in the back of the freezer should be rotating to test this hold the door switch in and push the dispise button down. If it does not even try it could be the control switch on the door. the auger motor is a 120v motor and relatively strong. You can test to see if you can manually turn the arm it should trurn stiffly. Its alsoi a chance you don't have the been in place correctly.
Posted on Jan 10, 2010
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