Question about Kitchen Appliances - Others
As per instructions. No matter what I tried the toaster setting would not heat up. The only way to get any heating elements warming up was to set the dial to Toast and the Temp. to 450 and the dial timer to 10 and back dial to toast preference setting symbol - doing that shuts off heating element when it gets to set temp., like 450 degrees. From my understanding the Toaster setting once turned on keeps the heating element on and red hot until the timer goes off, etc. All other settings work correctly!
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Toast Master Toaster TP409
if you mean the toast itself doesn't toast on one side, check that both heating elements have about the same resistance value. One could be twice as conductive as the other and not heat as much as the other side.
If you mean the other two slots don't toast, the problem could be in the switch or in the elements themselves. check carefully the continuity of the toaster across the (unplugged) ac power connector while you push the toaster load handle down on each side. If the resistance is significantly larger on the problem side, the problem is either the switch or the elements. The problem is usually with the switch becoming corroded or oxidized. The switch is supposed to be self-cleaning, that is, it wipes itself as contact is made to help remove buildup. Sandpaper both contacts until they shine copper colored. Otherwise look at the elements while toasting. dark areas mean lower wattage is being dissipated and the element may be bad near a dark spot.
Posted on Nov 30, 2007
you can touch the element but be carefull the glass is thin .... so scrape it and do what you can . THEN USE A COTTON BALL AND ALCOHOL and clean the element that will get rid of the oil you left behind ,you will be fine ......Please if this answer helped , please rate this 3 or 4 stars . and keep me in the paid answer department . A 1 or 2 may knock me down into the unpaid ranks. Thanks Cactus Bob
Posted on Mar 02, 2009
sorry to say its dead .this is the fate of all todays small appliances the only part i have in the book is a rack .no inside parts are made...hope this helped some ..........if this answer has helped and you plan to rate it please rate it a 3 or 4 star this high rateing will help me keep my spot in the paid answer department thank you
Posted on Apr 02, 2009
If its a Dualit model then you should be able to get it repaired. Generally replacing parts on a Dualit is not easy but spares are usually available thanks to the fact that its one of the most well known commercial toasters on the market. Google and see if there's a repairer in your area.
Posted on Apr 05, 2009
The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site.
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws.
Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement.
The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven.
If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock.
You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board.
On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced.
If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors.
Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
Posted on Jun 28, 2009
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