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Replaced a blown fuse and it blew again - Sharp Microwave Ovens

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If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead several seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You or a friend should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then take it out and put it back in, then test it again.

If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.

The fuse holder may be loose buy fatigue.

With the microwave unplugged, if you can easily turn the fuse with your thumb & forefinger while it's in the holder, it has overheated and fatigued and the holder should be replaced.

Simply squeezing the holder's terminals together with pliers is not solution. Metal fatigue is permanent.

When a connection is loose, heat results, which eventually melts the fuse internally.

This is usually evidenced by a very tiny ball of solder at the point where the end cap meets the body of the fuse.

You can use a generic holder - it's a lot cheaper than an OEM part.

The connectors should be 1/4" tabs and it should be rated at 20 amps or better.

You should be able to get one from a home center or local appliance parts store.

Feel free to e-mail me at pupista@gmail.com with your full model number as shown on the tag in or on the oven, and your detailed symptoms for free advice.

Posted on Dec 31, 2016

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