Question about Washing Machines
No spin, or lite spin try these: bare in mind that many times there is no spin it can be due to a clogged water pump so check it for debris and or broken propeller.
Other items to check Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. Bare in mind the lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically.
Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand.
Or try the hand test:
If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test. WARNING:This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a ****** *****. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day.
- put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand
- turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin
- if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand
- if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced.
Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either)
Next if belt driven check for a loose, worn or broken belt. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle.
On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly.
The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.
Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller. Check these by eye and hand. And in some models check with a meter for continuity and voltage.
LID SWITCH TEST- next step is toremove the cabinetand jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem isnot in the gearcase- look for trouble in theclutch,basket driveor the tub drive block
If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem withthe motor drive coupleror one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer.
Read more:Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washer
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!
Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in Whirlpool Kenmore...
Posted on Jan 13, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: washing mashine
If there is a drain issue, sometimes there is an obvious solution. Check the drain hose for any kinks, as well as checking any lint filters in or on the drain hose. Is there a lint sock on the end that's full? Perhaps the drain line itself is plugged. You will want to make sure that the house drain system is not backed up or plugged. Always make sure that the washer drain hose is above the level of water in the drain tub. Some Whirlpool/Kenmore washers make use of a side-check valve near the tub outlet which may get clogged. A standpipe should be at least 1 1/4 inches in diameter, and never seal a drain hose into a standpipe. This can lead to back-siphoning. You also want to make sure that the standpipe is less than 96 inches in height.
Pump problems show various symptoms. Sometimes the pump will lock up and seize. If the motor is running, it will continue to try to turn the pump. In the case of belt-driven pumps, the belt may break or burn through. The pulley may shear off. If there is enough tension on the belt, and the motor continues to try to turn it, you may wind up with a seized motor as well. The pump itself may have seized bearings, be jammed by clothing or another object; or the impeller blades may be broken off. The usual fix is to replace the pump.
If you think your pump may be jammed, drain out your tub and remove the hoses. Look inside the hoses and see if there are any obstructions. Feel around inside the pump inlets for anything that may be jamming the pump itself. You can also use long-nosed pliers to feel around inside the pump for any items that may be causing a jam. If you haven't found a jam, and you still believe there may be a jam in the pump, you can completely remove the pump from the washer and inspect it more closely.
Occasionally, transmission gears may become worn, or some other internal part may go bad. Some older washer models have an electric-mechanical shifter. If it won't shift, it's best to call a professional appliance repair person to address this issue. If your transmission is leaking oil, there are really only two options at this point, either run it until it dies completely, or replace it now.
Posted on Sep 27, 2008
I am not a repair professional. I am just a 78 year old man who has been making his own repairs for about 50 years. Therefore the washer ID doesn't mean
anything to me. It's been about 55 years since I had experience with front load washers. However I can refer you to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good trouble shooting and repair information on front loaders. I think you'll find what you need there. Don't worry about the timer, they hardly ever go bad. Good luck with it. If I have helped you, please rate my advice on fixya.
Posted on Nov 26, 2009
My washing machine is Samsung Top loading Model WA80B3, the problem is that the water inlet valve is continuously working all the time during the washing cycle and it does not stop automatically, so I have to run additional drying cycle after washing cycle and after closing the water supply manually
Posted on Dec 03, 2009
I've just had the same problem, replaced the brushes and the problem was still there, i then cleaned out the filter, it was really clogged up, this fixed the fault, you will also need a couple of towels to soak up the water from the filter, if the machine can't empty all the water from the filter it stays there and will not move on to the next cycle thus making you think it may be a pcb fault, please clean the filter before spending money on new brushes and/or new module or getting an engineer out to it at cost to you, please also ensure you remove the plug from the wall socket before you attempt to fix any electrical appliance,
Posted on Apr 26, 2010
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Thank you for your post, friend!
I understand that your Electrolux washer is displaying an "E3" error code while it is spinning. However, it appears "E3" is an invalid error code. It is possible that the error code is missing characters? I suggest resetting your washer. You can do this by flipping the household circuit breaker for roughly ten minutes. If resetting the power does not correct the issue, and your washer continues to display "E3" I would recommend contacting a professional to come and properly diagnose your appliance. -Matt
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