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BELT ROUTING DIAGRAM
1997 Mercury Sable 3.0L SFI 6cyl
The Belt Routing Diagram
Fig. Fig. 16: Rotate the belt tensioner and...
Fig. Fig. 17: ... remove the belt from around one of the pulleys to remove the belt
Use caution when removing or installing the belt and make sure the tool does not slip from the drive belt tensioner or personal injury or damage to the belt tensioner and the belt may occur.
Attach a 15mm socket or wrench to the bolt attaching the tensioner pulley.
On all 3.0L (OHV) engines, rotate the drive belt tensioner clockwise to relieve belt tension and slide the belt off the pulleys.
On 3.0L (DOHC) engines, rotate the tensioner counterclockwise to relieve belt tension and slide the belt off the pulleys.
Install the drive belt on all the pulleys except the tensioner pulley.
Rotate the belt tensioner as outlined in the removal procedure to relieve belt tension and install the belt onto the tensioner pulley. Make sure the V-grooves make proper contact with the pulleys. Make sure the spring keeper releases or improper belt tension will occur.
I assume you mean you have replaced the serpentine drive belt before? When your belt comes off, it is not operating your water pump and alternator or power steering pump, giving you the overheat and dead battery. Shouldnt make power steering fluid leak though. Does the power steering fluid leak all the time, or just when the belt comes off? If it leaks all the time from the pump area, you could have a bad seal and bearing in the pump causing the pulley to wobble and that makes the belt walk off. First, locate the belt routing diagram on the engine cowl (front of vehicle under the hood) or make a drawing of how the belt is routed for re-assembly use. Loosen belt tension at tensioner and take belt loose from a pulley that is easily accessed. Use your hands to wiggle all your pulleys and feel for excessive play in any of them or the components themselves. (water pump, power steering pump,A/C compressor and alternator.) If component play, you could have loose bolts causing wobble. If pulley play, could be bad bearing in component which would need replaced. Pay special attention to excess movement in the tensioner pulley itself. Also visually check for sideways alignment of pulleys. If pulleys are not aligned correctly, it will make the belt walk off also. That is usually a bracket misaligned or bolt holes in bracket worn out. If all checks good, I would suspect a worn out belt or belt tensioner that is not holding enough / proper tesion on belt allowing it to walk off. It will take you about an hour to check these things, repair costs depend on what you discover as a potential problem,as components can be costly.
Let us know what you find......Thanks, Mike
Rattling is most likely the original problem. I would say you have a bad bearing in one of your pulleys. Usually the A/C compressor one causes a loud rattle when it goes out, sometime the alternator one will also. Release tension on belt and try to wobble pulleys by hand to feel for slop in pulley bearings. If you find any significant slop, the pulley baering is most likely bad. (Your tesioner pulley itself can also be the culprit) sloppy pulley= bad bearing = drag= load on engine =bad idle and or kill motor.
All BMWs use a spring loaded tensioner. if you are having trouble with the tension then you need to find /use the correct belt path. If you are having trouble getting the belt on the tensioner, then use a section of the old belt to tug the new belt onto the Alt. pulley.
The tensioner that is on the BMW 4.4L M104 motor is found near the idle pulley and can be locked into the slacked position with a 1/4" thick bolt that has the threads ground off also the tensioner can be operated with a 3/8 drive ratchet. Apply tension to this pulley after getting the belt wrapped around the other pulleys and then fit it over the Alt. pulley last.
The tensioner is not set or aligned properly.
Rocked back and forth this means the pivot bushing has worn down. Tensioner Arm Misalignment This may appear as metal-to-metal contact between the arm and spring housing, and will be indicated by shiny, smooth streaks or gouges in the metal. Misalignment also is likely if the arm can be vertically rocked back and forth. This means the pivot bushing has worn down. Idler Bearing Wear With the engine off and the belt removed, manually rotate the tensioner pulley. Noise or resistance when turning the pulley could indicate bearing failure. Check for play in the bearing by rocking the pulley. It should only pitch very slightly. If noise, resistance or excessive play is found, replace the pulley. ----------- Excessive Tensioner Arm Movement With the engine running, observe the back and forth sway of the tensioner arm. If it exceeds 1/2” of movement, or moves continually, the damping system has failed. This movement can reduce the life of the tensioner, belt and component bearings. The tensioner should be replaced. ------------ Improper Belt Tracking With the engine running, inspect the belt and tensioner pulley. If the belt is not properly tracking in the center of the pulley, the tensioner could be misaligned. This also can be a sign of a bent bracket or misaligned components. Check the drive components and repair if necessary. Thanks. keep updated for any more
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Belt falling off,, It is most likely a belt tencher, or a pulley,, Turn pulley's by hand felling for any wobbling or play side to side especially watter pump ,if fault is found replace part and reinstall belt,!if you cant find fault,Reinstall belt,then pull on belt to see if it belt has tension and returns with no sticking of tension-er then,if all look well .start car and observe ,may have been a glitch or bad belt best wish
did you remove the belt before you tried to loosen the bolt? when you say main pulley, do you mean the pulley on the tensioner? by tensioner belt bolt do you mean the bolt secureing the pulley to the tensioner arm?
The symptoms you have described sounds most like you had a serpentine belt break or fall off the pulley system (rare but possible).That is a fairly simple job to replace the serpentine belt,whether you replace it yourself or have a professional do the job it isn't a costly repair, providing that is the only problem.There is a serpentine belt routing label under the hood, usually on the plastic piece that goes across the front of the engine compartment near the hood latch release.There is a spring loaded belt tensioner that holds tension on the serpentine belt(labeled on the routing label) rotate the tensioner against the spring pressure, rout the belt according to the routing label, then slowly release tensioner against the new belt and that should complete the installation.Hopefully that is the solution. Good luck !
two things you can do.one buy a plate for pulley from dealer put it on. second remove the bracket support from power steering and push the pump towards driver side and put the bracket back on should solve the problem.
1.Your engine has an internal timing chain, not a belt. Therefore I'm going to assume that you mean the serpentine drive belt. Common causes for belt to fail is either a mis-aligned or damaged pulley, improper belt tension, or bad tensioner spring (if equipped with spring loaded tensioner) You mentioned a loose pulley but didn't say which one! That's what I'd look at first! Also, make sure that all pulleys have no "wobble" indicating a bad pulley bearing Most common: water pump or idler pulley.