Question about Electrolux Dishwashers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
You;ll need to remove the "kick" panel first. Use a 1/4" nut driver or socket. Then open the door and remove the 2 phillips screws that mount the dishwasher to the underneath of the cabinet. Then scoot the dishwasher out about 6 inches or so. You'll be able to use a flashlight and look closely at the door hinges and spring assy. to see what's hindering the full extension of the door. You MAY need to take the water valve off to get it to scoot out so you can work on it. Don't take the copper pipe off of the valve, just remove the screws that hold the valve onto the frame. And don't forget to KILL THE POWER TO THE DISHWASHER PRIOR TO SERVICING!
Posted on Aug 01, 2007
Jon, check that the inlet water valve works(it is an electromagnet valve, located at the pipe's entrance to the machine)). If it doesn't work, test that it get power. In case it get power and doesn't work - You can easily open the valve and clean it (from scale or other dirt). Be aware you should disconnect the power cable from machine before doing it !!!! Check as well for valve's coil resistance. In case you have no resistance measurement - you should replace it for a new one. Good luck
Posted on Aug 13, 2007
usual door closure is onto a hook coming out of the top of ther cabinet just under the worktop. this needs adjusting to come out a little
Posted on Sep 02, 2008
The problem seems to be the loosening of the screws that hold the interior stainless steel skin to the door frame--not the latch.
With the door in the open position you should find a total of twelve screws (5 on each side and 2 on top at each side of the latch). The screws have a particular type of head which may require a trip to the hardware (its a $1,000 dishwasher take the time to get the right screwdriver). They are called TORX screws the size on my dishwasher was a T 15. These type of screw heads were designed to fit automated torque drivers at the factory that set the screws to the proper tension. So some care should be given when you retighten them. Turn until the screw is snug and there no movement of the inner door skin but don't over tighten. Giving it that extra 1/4 turn can be enough to strip the screw out and create a bigger problem.
Yes--you shouldn't have to be doing this to a KitchenAid appliance that cost this much--but I suspect that this will become a feature of periodic maintenance. The heating and cooling generates enough movement that overtime these screws work themselves out. My wife who was the once to make the right diagnosis noticed that the screws at the bottom were almost entirely out.
Posted on May 07, 2009
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