Question about Frigidaire Dryers

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Frigidaire gallery dryer/ i need to find the plastic spacer thats mounted to the front panel that holds the drum up.cant find. cant find it in the diagram.#glgr341as4.

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  • Frigidaire Master
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Sorry we do not sell parts here.

Posted on Dec 29, 2016

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

FRANKSFIXIT
  • 72 Answers

SOURCE: Squeeking noise

Here's a possible troubleshooting fix I just sent to someone else that quite possibly has the same problem you have there now.

Hope it helps you out as well, as it is a bit long, but I'll post the whole reply I sent them and you can use whatever parts of it that will work for you.

Hi,

My name is Frank...

Regarding your possibly broken dryer.

I'm hoping that this info below helps you out even though I know I won't be able to repair/fix your dryer myself personally. Reason why - I'll explain further down.

I've repaired a few gas dryers & washing machines as well in my time. I can honestly say that I'm as close to being an expert as they come - esp when it comes to making repairs on existing dryer parts that can no longer be purchased as they are either obsolete, or way over-priced.

This is what I do for a semi-retired hobby, and sideline self-employed FIX-IT business. Named appropriately - FRANK'S FIX-IT SHOP. It's only an online fix it at present. Keeps me busy instead of being bored to death.

Electric clothes dryers are typically made the same as gas dryers - as to the mechanical drum part. Only thing different in a gas unit is the 110VAC electrical igniter or element, and the gas delivery system that provides the drying heat to the dryer itself.

All else is basically the same...

In an electric clothes dryer all the power comes from the 220VAC source as to the heating element, etc. The mechanical parts are typically the same as that of a gas dryer.

Having said this - the problem with your dryer can only have one of possibly 2 things wrong with it - seeings it's no doubt 220VAC totally electric, unless you actually have gas where you are there, which is rare in Florida these days!

If after you start the drying cycle you quickly open the dryer door, and you notice the drum is actually rotating - until there is the loss of electric power via a safety door switch that kills electric power to the drum motor activity - then there is NOT a problem with a broken drum belt.

If your dryer is older then say 10-15 years, and you really use it alot - then maybe there's a possibility of a broken drum belt (cost is around $10-15 for a new belt part depending on model - usually - and that does not include labor to install it).

Usually you'll hear the motor whining, but no drum 'noise' or movement. Dead giveaway as to a broken belt.

I had replaced 2 belts and 1 IDLER wheel on my own 30+ year old gas Kenmore dryer before selling it, and then picked up a more recent newer model GE washer & gas dryer that someone was just giving away for free. My 30+ year old Kenmore washer had just died on me at the same time is why I upgraded. Can't pass up a great freebie deal like that everyday! Never had to fix anything on my Kenmore washer during the time I owned it - it was GREAT!! I miss it dearly now.....

Though they were both newer GE models I really don't care for GE anything, as I think they are poorly built, as well as is their refrigerator brands as well.

Don't buy GE anything if you don't have to!! You heard it here from me and I know. My GE washer already broke a belt not even being 8-9 years old, and it was hell to replace, and never worked right afterwords as for the water pump part. Very POOR design! Oh well...

The gas dryer works fine, but the lint collector is not anywhere as good as my old Kenmore was. Poor design in my opinion.

I'm looking for another Kenmore or Whirlpool (set) model now, as they are the best. Kenmores are made by Whirlpool btw, just in case you didn't know that. The best in the business!

As to your other possible noise scenario -

The only other weird noise scenario you'll experience if it's a Kenmore dryer is when the drum "spring loaded track IDLER wheel" goes bad. This drum IDLER wheel is located under the drum itself at the back part of the drum and rides in a groove in the drum itself. It also helps to stabilize and counter-balance the drive belt-loaded turning drum that rides on this drum IDLER wheel as it turns. If your dryer does have the rear drum IDLER wheel system, then it just depends on the make and model. Kenmores & Whirlpools are designed this way. Very good design I might add!!

Some, or all GE dryer models may have a rear drum centering bearing assy instead - and in addition to - a front (Support, 3 glide front drum bearing part# 2359 & a Drum front slide bearing part# 2305 times 3 needed). If this/these front support/slide bearing part(s) goes bad usually the "felt duct" will need to be replaced as well. It not only helps to seal and quiet the drum that runs on the Support part, but it also helps to keep clothes from getting in-between the Support C part and helps prevent clothes from getting damaged. If those (3) friction sliders wear out or fall out, and take out or damage the "felt duct" as well, then the noise will be horrendously LOUD.

The front part of the GE drum models usually rides on a separate front panel support assy which can be made of a plastic C shaped device with anti-friction pad strips to help in frictionless rotation of the drum. A cheap but pretty effective design that does away with a front IDLER wheel, or pair of IDLER wheels as it were at the front of the dryer's frame which houses the door assy as well.

Though my Kenmore replacement drum IDLER wheel only cost me around $17 many years ago I see they now are anywhere in the $30+ range. Ouch! If it's the GE rear bearing assy that has gone bad - another Ouch as that part runs around $50+. Just depends on where you are and parts availability.

Most Kenmore/Whirlpool model dryers with the rear spring loaded drum IDLER wheel design do not have a ball bearing design, but rather have a typical cheaper brass bushing design instead, and when the grease lubricant dries out or they become dirty from picking up dirt in the air such as lint from the drum, etc then they begin to SQUEAL or WHINE very loudly.

The longer this goes on like this the hotter the drum IDLER track wheel gets until it melts the "typically" molded plastic housing, and then it really makes a lot of noise, and could actually lend to the drum belt breaking - as due from the added friction & stress from the binding wheel. It can also damage the front "felt duct" material as well. I had to repair mine as best I could as they had n factory replacement part that I knew off.

The only other mechanical parts that could possibly make any squealing type noise would be the electric belt drive motor or the heat blower motor being gas or electric. If the heat blower motor uses a cheaper brass sleeve shaft bushing bearing that would be rare, but could be a noise source as well. The belt drive motor rarely rarely would ever go bad!!

I hope this info helps to narrow down your problem if you are not able to at least open the top up to inspect the dryer yourself. Always unplug the 110VAC power before opening any cover or panel part up though!

That will not only prevent any electrical shock hazard, but will also keep the gas from turning on by mistake - as by solenoid design - if your dryer is gas.

I suspect this is what's wrong with your dryer.

Again - I hope the info helps you out...

Best regards,

Frank

Posted on Mar 05, 2008

thaurfen
  • 623 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer not heating

  • There are two house circuits/fuses in an electric dryer's circuit.
    If one of them is tripped/blown, the drum may turn, but the heater will not operate. Reset the circuit breaker or replace the house fuse.
  • Outlet wired incorrectly.
    Have a qualified electrician verify that the supply voltage is correct.
  • Gas supply valve to a gas dryer is not open.
    Open the gas supply valve. See Installation Instructions for details.
  • LP gas supply tank is empty or there has been a utility interruption of natural gas.
    Refill or replace the LP tank. Call your natural gas utility company.
  • Dryer does not have enough air supply to support the gas burner.
    The dryer needs space around it for proper ventilation. Do not stack or place laundry or throw rugs against the front or back of the dryer. See Installation Instructions for details about installing a dryer in a closet or alcove.
  • Incorrect cycle or temperature has been selected.
    If the Air Fluff cycle or temperature is selected, the dryer will tumble without heat. Each cycle ends with a Cool Down period during which the load tumbles without heat. Check the location of the indicator on the Cycle Selector knob.

Posted on Jan 08, 2009

localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: Amana NEW7200TW (1 year old) runs, but stopped heating.

Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Posted on Jul 30, 2009

hunter19_46m
  • 7482 Answers

SOURCE: can't find kenmore 80 series dryer drum belt

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
If you have to replace your drum belt and if you have a front loading machine.
Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch. Then remove the top of the dryer.
Remove the front of the machine, this will expose the belt and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum.
Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn.
While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you lubricate the drum rollers at the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting noisy, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a noise like a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
I will include these two websites for parts and further help:
http://www.partselect.com/
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/index.aspx
Both also have chat assistance 24/7.
Also for a manual I will include this website:
http://www.applianceaid.com/
Good luck,
I hope this helps

Posted on Nov 16, 2009

Testimonial: "many thanks... sounds like a lot of work unlike my old dryer"

  • 239 Answers

SOURCE: frigidaire gallery dryer catching clthes near top

The front bearing needs to be replaced. You can get the whole maintenance kit for about the same price, so I would recommend doing that.

Kelly

Posted on Mar 22, 2011

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1 Answer

Dryer is making a noise that sounds like something is loose in the drum it is still drying very loud at first then gets quieter as it goes.


The dryer drum rides on a center bearing (plastic on metal mount). In time the plastic bearing disintegrates and the ball begins to rub the metal mount. If left like that after a while the ball will be cut in 2.
themobilian_2084.jpg

Another thing that goes south is the plastic slides that the drum rides on in front.

My Electrolux Dryer repair page

themobilian_2085.jpg

Mar 29, 2011 | Frigidaire Dryers

Tip

Help my dryer is eating my clothes


This is a common occurance in Frigidaire dryers and GE dryers. The glides wear out and the drum usually scrubs to begin with. On GE dryers the glides are mounted on plastic bearing. So the noise is not so much but it will still begin to bind up and to pinch. To replace the glides is very easy. Open the door to remove screws holding down the top. Or use a putty knife to pop the top on some models. Then remove the front panel. The bearing pops off and the glades are fairly easy to replace. I have a repair page on GE dryer HERE

on Jul 23, 2011 | Dryers

Tip

417.91702000 Broken dryer belt and felt replacement


To get inside the dryer portion you start by removong the top making a note of where the screws mount makes it easier to put back right later but is no big deal. After removing the top you remove the splashplate and then the controlpanel. The panel has quick connects so the wiring will be no problem. Once the control panel has been removed get the front panel off ad remove the drum.
IThese dryers comewith 2 different styles of glides. The drum mounted version and the front panel mounted versions. The glide kit comes with glue also. I have a page which features videos and more on frigidaire dryers. HERE

Laundry center service manual

on Dec 11, 2010 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

The drum on my frigidaire Gallery dryer is tipped down , so there is a gap at the bottom and clothes get stuck in it. Can this be adjusted?


Suspect one or more failures of the drum front support bearings. Remove the cabinet top by removing several screws at the rear of the top, then pushing it to the rear somewhat which should allow the top front to lift up to allow removal of the front cabinet panel by taking out several screws on each side, then lifting the panel up to release it from the bottom. Once the panel is off, the support bearings should be mounted around the drum opening in the panel. Hope this helps!

Nov 20, 2010 | Frigidaire GLER341A Electric Dryer

1 Answer

How do I access/replace the igniter on a


the igniter is mounted on the gas valve the front panel comes off by removing two phillips screws at the bottom then set the front panel aside remove the front bulk head and the drum then you will see the gas valve and igniter replace the igniter and reassemble the dryer

Apr 03, 2010 | Frigidaire Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer make a squeeling noise when going, how do I fix and get the back off the dryer


Nothing could be easier to work on than these beautys. After unplugging the machine start by popping the top so you can get to the screws holding the front panel on. As pictured gently push the springclips in on each side about 2 or 3 inchs from each end to release the top: top%20removal.jpg Pop that top with a putty knife. After removing the 2 phillips screws holding the front to the frame (near the top on each side) and taking the wires loose from the door switch, lift the front panel out yer way.
Remove the rear hatch and take the idler loose. Then you can get the drum out. Grab the belt and yank upwards on the drum and remove it out the front.

INSPECTING THE DRYER Look for broken glides on the front panel: 5303937139.jpg?height=147&width=200 5303937139 glide kit $24 The rear drum has a big trailer ball type mount that holds it into place, over time the plastic bearing wears out and the support under it squeals, (it is telling you serious stuff is going to happen) The metal mount under the by now thin, failed, and gone bye-bye plastic bearing, will eat into the ball and cut it off causing the drum to fall into the heater element AND break the belt. YIKES! NOT GOOD! a%20frigidaire%20dryer%20bearing%20failure.jpg?height=150&width=200
Failed bearing with missing ball
The kit (5303281153) comes with everything you need to repair the bearing. It is about $25 bucks or less. With the drum removed and the bearing inspected you want to take a gander at the heating element. If the element is broken, there is no need to buy the whole pan for $100. You can get a restring kit for about $25. Just remember to evenly space the new wire so it will not burn out quickly. Remove all lint from the dryer and the drum. This is the main killer of a heater element. Lint on it causes a hot spot. gibsonfrig%20elec%20coil.jpg 5300622032 Restring kit $25 The fuse mounts on the rear wall of the dryer in the upper right hand corner. If it blows the dryer will not run. Clean out the vent and any lint in the dryer or the fuse will continue to blow. gibson%20rear%20wall.jpg 134120900 Fuse $12 The belt part # is 5303281154 $10 The Idler is part # 131863007 $12 For routing info see Belt routing above on anotha page my friend. LOL Or better yet how about the repair manual? Here is a newer repair manual. The innards of the dryer is the same as always but the newer models have a thermister and assorted goodies: ELECTROLUX REPAIR MANUAL

Oct 24, 2009 | Frigidaire FDE336RE Dryer

1 Answer

Need to remove the front


there are two screws on the back of the lid take those off then slide the lid off remove the screws that hold down the control the the screws on the inside of the cabinet that hold the front panel in place once removed the panl will pop off

Sep 09, 2009 | Frigidaire GLEQ2152ES Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Dryer drum has come loose, how do I tighten it?


These machines have a metal ball (like a small trailer hitch ball) mounted on the rear of the drum that rides in a plastic saddle mounted on the rear of the machine,
The parts that you need to replace would be the plastic glides mounted in the front of the drum that run on teflon pads glued to the rim around the door. When they get bad you start to notice dammaged clothing.
The drum is allowed to sag down enough that clothing can get into the gap at the bottom and as the drum turns upward the items get pinched when the gap closes at the top.
All these parts can be replaced but be prepared if you do it yourself, this is a tough machine to work on.
Good Luck
Quentin

Jun 27, 2009 | Frigidaire FEX831CS Top Load Stacked...

1 Answer

Screeching sound when dryer is running


This is a bit of a job. The dryer needs to be in the open. The top swings up by pushing a flat blade screwdriver in the seam between the top and the front panels about two inches from the sides to release the latches. With the top up and supported, Remove the two screws that hold the front panel to the side panels. These are inside the cabinet and near the top of the front panel. Disconnect the door switch wiring and remove the front panel. This is when you find all that lent that the filter missed. Remove the small louvered panel on the back near the bottom of the left side and reach inside and disengage the belt from the motor and idler pulleys. Remove the three phillips screws arraigned in a trangle on the back of the drum near the hub inside the dryer. Remove the small plastic spacer? located in the center of the cabinet where the top and front panels come together. I never could figure out what that thing was for. Now the drum will come out the front of the dryer. Go slow as to not mash or cut a finger. The rear bearing is now accessible for lubrication or replacement. It's not that hard, it just takes a while. Good luck.

Dec 24, 2008 | Frigidaire GLER331A Electric Dryer

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