Question about Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Replace Battery Cover
to get to the battery door you must remove the back, to remove the back you must remove the top of the grip (shutter button and dial and WT lever). remove top of grip... 1) starting at the bottom of the plastic strip (along the front edge of the grip) that holds the shutter button, slide upward, the strip will bow outward and after about 3/16", the bottom's free. the only other thing holding it in place is a bit of double-stick tape and a similar clip at the top. CAREFUL! there's a spring under the button that's easy to lose. 2) Inside the battery case, front battery, all the way at the top, there's a tiny phillips screw, pull it. 3) peel away the right side rubber grip right by where your thumb meets the W on the W/T lever. 1st hole you'll see is a springy clip, keep going around to the right til you find a screw. pull that. 4) back to the springy clip hole, pushing inward on the finger, the top will come off straight up. leave it hanging, you just need it out of the way so the back can come loose. remove the back... 5) bottom of camera, remove 2 screws nearest the CE label and one outboard of the rearmost battery. 6) viewfinder cap: 4 screws, skinny on top, fatter on the bottom. the cap pops off. 7) lcd cover/frame: pull away from viewfinder(top) edge about 1/4 inch. the bottom's held by fingers; they need to slide to the left 1/8", then that's off. 8) remove screw @ lowerleft of lcd. now the whole back will slide rearward. 1st thing loose is memory door, remove it. slide the back off, out of the way. you'll now see that the battery door is held on by two hinge pins, not one continuous. the rearmost pin will slide left into the memory cover area, and the door will flex enough to remove it toward the front. trickiest part of reassembly is the spring under the shutter button. balance the spring on the camera, put the button into place. hold it in place with the screwdriver through eye of plastic strip, leaves plenty of room to seat the strip. lose a screw? I did, and the least-needed one is the one pulled at #3.
Posted on Mar 26, 2008
1st::Unscrew the 2 screws that hold the light in.
2nd::Slide your hand behind the light and pull the light towards you. Make sure that you pull it straight, as if the h3 was driving away from you, so you dont break the two pins that are holding the light in...PULL ONE PIN AT A TIME!!!
Dont pull it to far away from the hummer as there are wires attached that need to stay attached.
3rd::turn the back of the bulb to unlock it from the lens...
4th:: slide the bulb out and remove thebulb by pulling it straight out.
5th::put the new bulb in, lock it back into the lens, then insert it back where you got it from,...
MAKE SURE you move the wires out of the way when you put the lens back in...they will get in the way and can be damaged.
Posted on Apr 07, 2009
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer
are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of
cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.
check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.
You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
How to check everything
Posted on Aug 30, 2009
Posted on Feb 02, 2011
Testimonial: "Brilliant - thanks very much, I'm still slightly concerned that the back panel is only frosted up at the top. Is this OK?"
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