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Replace lightolier e600 with standard 3 way switch. ER-3 switch by lightlier is on other side of the room.

Replaced e600 with standard 3 way switch (using led lights-old e600 did not like led lights. flickered or shut off). ER 3 switch on other side of room only has a black and white wire. standard 3 way switch replacing e600 works. 3 way replacing er3 does not work.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 21 Answers

SOURCE: told motor was bad, replaced motor, new motor does not run

Black to Black, Purple to White and the new motor requires a run capacitor which brown goes to one side of capacitor and brown/white goes to the othe side of the capacitor. This is providing the old motor is a single speed. If the old motor is a two speed you have an incorrect replacement motor.

Posted on May 02, 2009

VtToolMan
  • 704 Answers

SOURCE: I am replacing a combination 2 switch using a

First, turn off the power to this circuit to avoid getting a shock.

If the two devices that are controlled by the combination switch are lights, you will want to join the two (2) white (neutral) wires together with a wire nut, as these are not connected to the switch.

You also want to connect the bare copper wires (ground) together and connect one of them to the switch's green grounding screw and IF the wall box is metal, you also need to attach the ground wire to the box with a green grounding screw.

Now, you can connect the wires that go to your lights, the red and black wires that are part of the same wire and are routed to the same location thru the wall box. Take either the black or red and connect them to the screws on the side of switch that are not connected together with the small brass strip between them. Put the red on one of these screws and the black on the other.

Now with the black wire that is the hot (Common), this is the one that is bringing power into the wall box, should be connected to the other side of the switch, the one with the two (2) screws that are joined together with the brass strip between them.

This will allow you to turn on and off each of the lights (or a fan, etc) separately with each switch sharing the common power source.

Here's a picture of the switch that shows the side of the switch with the common side and the brass strip that connects the screws together. This is the side where the one black (hot / common) wire that supplies the power gets connected.

http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?item=8935&section=10070

You can also open up the box the switch came in and you'll find a wiring diagram for the switch that illustrates how to properly wire the switch for your application.

I hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

Posted on Oct 10, 2009

SOURCE: GE Timer #15086 has

GE 15086 programmable timer replaces single-pole switch only.
Single pole means 1 device turns Load on-off.
3-way is where 2 devices turn Load on-off, for example 2 switches located in hallway.

Your existing timer has white, black and blue wires.
Your new timer has white, black, red and green wires.
Green wire connects to bare ground wire in every occasion with every wiring device.

Electricians don't guess, they test the other wires.

Remove old timer.
Separate wires for testing.
Turn on power.
Tape ordinary tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away from power.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester will light up on Hot wire. The Hot wire will connect to timer black wire.
Now test Hot wire to each other wire (except bare ground)
Tester will light up on Neutral wire. Neutral wire connects to timer white wire.

The remaining wire connects to timer red wire.
After connecting timer, push manual override button to check that Load turns on-off.

Manual override on 15086 is the door that covers buttons > use door as push button to check Load.
Next, program the timer.
Programming is straightforward and similar to other timers.
If you have a problem, add a comment.

You can also take advantage of Fixya phone support. Expert will walk you through the steps for a price.

Posted on Dec 22, 2010

SOURCE: I bought a Leviton 1201-PLC 15 Amp, 120 Volt,

Your screw terminals are 2-brass and 1-dark.
Dark screw is considered 'common'
http://waterheatertimer.org/ST01C-program.html#3-way

Leviton shows a 3-way 1203-2, but not 1201
Wiring diagram indicates that pilot light is ON whenever switch has power.
http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?item=2681§ion=10046&minisite=10026

Check your instruction sheet that pilot light is supposed to turn on-off with Load.
I don't think it is, without additional terminal on switch for neutral wire.
And then it would only work on switch located closest to light.

You can wire this type of thing separately.
Buy ordinary pilot light or indicator light from WW Grainger.
Look at diagram on following image:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/3-way-circuit-with-pilot-indicator.jpg

Upvote the help.
And take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you while you work on circuit or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Posted on May 09, 2011

  • 3287 Answers

SOURCE: Installing a Lightolier 600VA general inductive dimmer switch.

Hi James, I'm an electrician and can help you with this problem.

From what you describe, the wiring in the switch box is for a standard, single pole switch or dimmer, and is not compatible with this replacement switch. Here's why: you stated that there are (2) wires in the box, a black and white insulated wire, that once fed a dimmer switch. Common wiring practices would suggest to most electricians that the white wire is the 120 volt "hot" supply and the black is the switched leg - or output of the switch to the fixture.

The replacement inductive dimmer switch is not a standard switch. It is designed to control inductive loads - or motors such as a fan. It does not simply control the flow of current - but actually uses a small amount of electricity to do this. This means it needs a complete 120 volt circuit consisting of a neutral and hot wire; and wire for the output of the switch to the motor. A total of insulated 3 wires. You have only two.

If you have a neutral in the box, you can use the switch if wire like this:

120 volt "hot" to the switch Black
120 volt "neutral" to the switch White
120 volt load wire (to motor) to the switch Red
The switch Yellow should be taped or capped off and is used only in a three way application.

The "arm switch" cuts power and the wheel is used to set low speed setting. You can see the info sheet here.

As mentioned above, this switch is used to control a motor - not a light. The same way a dimmer is used to control a light - not a motor. If you do not have access to a neutral in the box, you should either install one or, use a different switch. There are motor speed control switches that do not require a neutral wire and cost under $25.

If you need to control both light and fan there are products that are installed in the canopy of a paddle fan that will do this for under $50 and are operated via a wireless remote that can be secured to the wall such as those below:



4_20_2012_5_29_30_pm.jpg


4_20_2012_5_30_53_pm.jpg
These can be found at Home Depot, Lowes, and electrical supply stores.

I hope this was helpful & good luck!

Posted on Apr 20, 2012

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Hi James, I'm an electrician and can help you with this problem.

From what you describe, the wiring in the switch box is for a standard, single pole switch or dimmer, and is not compatible with this replacement switch. Here's why: you stated that there are (2) wires in the box, a black and white insulated wire, that once fed a dimmer switch. Common wiring practices would suggest to most electricians that the white wire is the 120 volt "hot" supply and the black is the switched leg - or output of the switch to the fixture.

The replacement inductive dimmer switch is not a standard switch. It is designed to control inductive loads - or motors such as a fan. It does not simply control the flow of current - but actually uses a small amount of electricity to do this. This means it needs a complete 120 volt circuit consisting of a neutral and hot wire; and wire for the output of the switch to the motor. A total of insulated 3 wires. You have only two.

If you have a neutral in the box, you can use the switch if wire like this:

120 volt "hot" to the switch Black
120 volt "neutral" to the switch White
120 volt load wire (to motor) to the switch Red
The switch Yellow should be taped or capped off and is used only in a three way application.

The "arm switch" cuts power and the wheel is used to set low speed setting. You can see the info sheet here.

As mentioned above, this switch is used to control a motor - not a light. The same way a dimmer is used to control a light - not a motor. If you do not have access to a neutral in the box, you should either install one or, use a different switch. There are motor speed control switches that do not require a neutral wire and cost under $25.

If you need to control both light and fan there are products that are installed in the canopy of a paddle fan that will do this for under $50 and are operated via a wireless remote that can be secured to the wall such as those below:



4_20_2012_5_29_30_pm.jpg


4_20_2012_5_30_53_pm.jpg
These can be found at Home Depot, Lowes, and electrical supply stores.

I hope this was helpful & good luck!

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