Question about Ovens
I have looked at forum snswers for How to replace hinges, how to remove door etc, but still cannot find how to diaassemble the door to reattach the bar hunge to the door pin. Any help appreciated. Thanks.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: oven door does not close
I had the same problem. The first time the Tech. came out, put a new hinge in and it held until Nov. 07. ( 8 months ). Then the left hinge brakes when I opend the door and it crashes to the floor. Bending the right hinge and the metal doorliner. Jan.7,08 everything was fixed. On 1/11 after no more then 10 openings & closings the hinge broke again. This time I heard the crack of the braking metal after opening the door 2 inches. It now sits in my kitchen propped-up with a stick, waiting for the repairman. I am sorry I have no solution , but there must be a problem with the hinges. I forgot to tell you that it started with a door that did not close, like yours.
Posted on Jan 18, 2008
SOURCE: oven door hinge failure
U need to replace both door hinges together.
In your browser bar , type in youtube.com
Then in then search box type in fitting oven door hinge
Click on appropiate video and follow instructions.
This should be a big help to you.
Plz rate my solution.
Posted on Dec 31, 2008
If you got to:
Then click on youtube videos, and in the search box type in: fitting oven door hinge, you should be able to get all the info you need to help solve your problem.
Please leave a fixya rating for my suggested solution.
Posted on Feb 08, 2009
On my double oven the bottom door was not closing by at least 21/2 inches the upper door would allow the light to stay on . Upon close examination this problem appeared to be the door was too low which did not allow the gasket to seat in the oven cavity, holding the door open. new hinges and receptors did not resolve this condition.This is how I corrected this condition. 1 open the doors one at a time and lock the hinges.2 remove the doors from the receptors (be careful they are heavy) and set aside. 3 remove mounting screws holding oven in cabinet. 4 slide oven forward enough to hold onto receptor sockets on left and right sides lower and upper 5 remove receptor sockets by removing the screws in front of oven(be careful to hold on to the receptor so it doesnt fall behind oven into cabinet)7 with a center punch punch a start point 1/8 inch above the existing screw holes and drill appropriate size hole for screw THE HOLES MUST MATCH UPPER AND LOWER RECEPTOR OR THE SCREWS ON THE LOWER DOOR WILL SCRATCH THE UPPER DOOR .8 attach receptors to oven in new holes 9 slide oven back into cabinet and replace screws removed in step three 10 attach doors into receptors and push locks forward into receptor cavity attach lower door first and check for operation then upper door open slowly and check enough clearance exists for the screws on the lower door miss the upper door . If more clearance is needed elongate the holes drilled earlier(repeat steps 1 through 5) and slide receptor up on upper door. NOTE The receptors are not in a sealed space in the oven cavity and are not exposed to any heat. Periodically check the screws for tightness. After performing this procedure Both doors close all the way and the light is no longer a problem Now 20 minutes cook time MEANS 20 MINUTES COOK TIME.
HOPE THIS RESOLVES YOUR PROBLEM !!!!!
Posted on Aug 06, 2009
I have the SMEG F170-5 and had this problem after cleaning and replacing the door. It wouldn't heat unless I banged it shut. This action made the internal switch trigger, so I had to remove the oven (4 screws, slide out) and remove the right side panel (4 screws). The switch is actuated by the right hinge strut and it must have become bent slightly. I bent it a bit towards the door so that it would just a little bit more likely to make the switch trigger with the door closed and it now works fine.
Posted on Nov 07, 2009
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