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The snow blower on my BX 24 started running backwards, what happened? Just replaced the shear pin on the second stage blower. Before that everything was fine.

Thanks for all the good folks that viewed my post. I finally figured it out. The chain tensioner backed off a bit allowing the drive chain to pop off it's sprocket, then the two sprockets came into contact with each other acting as a gear thus reversing the blower unit. Released the tensioner, remounted the chain, retensioned the whole thing, threw some chain oil on and bingo, my driveway is clear. Posted this in case some has the same issue.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Stuck garage door - Sears Craftsman 1/2 HP GDO, Model 139.18876

I HAD the same problem. I just solved it.

Here's what's wrong...

There is a black plastic "notched" wheel that attaches to the very end of the motor shaft and operates the RPM sensor. I found that when I reassembled my unit I did not get this wheel far enough onto the shaft and therefore it wasn't fitting far enough into the RPM sensor.

I had to take the motor back off, loosen the Allen screws on the shaft collar and push the collar further onto the shaft. There should be very little back and forth "play" in the shaft. This makes the RPM wheel fit further onto the shaft where it should and makes the motor work like it should.

Posted on Feb 15, 2009

steve_lima
  • 181 Answers

SOURCE: I want to replace the drive sprocket on my Jonsered 451E chainsaw. I found a replacement sprocket, but don't have a manual to guide me through the process of removal. How do I keep the driveshaft from

the threads are left hand.i my self use a small butterfly air rachet to remove the nut. it spins fast enough to remove the nut.

Posted on May 12, 2009

  • 61 Answers

SOURCE: homelite chainsaw sprocket and clutch for chain

You can get the parts at your local tool rental store.. They should be able to do the service themselves to if you dont want to do it.. Let me know how you make out..

Posted on Jul 10, 2009

c17hydro
  • 2984 Answers

SOURCE: Timing Chain Cover, Chain, Sprockets, replacement

2.2L VIN 4 To Remove:

  1. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Drive belt.
    • Drive belt tensioner.
    • Alternator.
    • Power steering pump. Place the pump aside with the lines attached.
  2. Lift the vehicle.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Oil pan.
    • Crankshaft pulley and hub.
    • Timing cover bolts.
    • Timing cover. If necessary, tap with a rubber mallet to loosen the cover.
  4. Clean the mating surfaces.
To Install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Timing cover gasket.
    • Timing cover and the bolts. Tighten the bolts to 11 Nm (97 in. lbs.).
    • Crankshaft pulley hub and the crankshaft pulley.
    • Oil pan.
  2. Lower the vehicle.
  3. Install or connect the following:
    • Power steering pump.
    • Alternator.
    • Drive belt tensioner.
    • Drive belt.

Posted on Aug 30, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Chain & Sprocket turn, but Rear Wheel Not engaging/spinning

The problem is witht he flywheel on the rear wheel assembly. I had mine fixed by a professional last night (at a bike store). Razor uses a very cheap spring that is designed to fail and then to top that off did not use enough bearings as well (12 bearings short out of the factory). My son had also sprayed WD-40 all around the back axle (trying to make it faster). This is bad because, the bearings are packed in grease and WD-40 is a de-greaser. Never get WD-40 anywhere near your back axle!!! Anyway, the flywheel was way easier to remove than I thought. It is threaded onto the rim's axle shaft and just screws off. Once you get the flywheel, off you have to take it apart, fabricate a new spring (my son's new spring came from an old 10 speed's tensioning spring), reset the 3 pawls, repack the bearings, put the flywheel back together, and screw it back onto the wheel. I will post a YouTube video on this later. Hopefully this is enough info to get you started.

Posted on Nov 03, 2010

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1 Answer

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The shear pin is sheared off. Somewhere along the auger, you'll find a hole drilled all the way through it. The shaft inside also has a hole drilled all the way through it. Compare the two augers - the holes are USUALLY in a straight line with each other (when one is up/down, the other is also up/down).

Get a replacement shear pin (DO NOT use a hardened bolt!) and put it through the holes when the auger holes are lined up with the axle holes.

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If not... the gearbox may be damaged, possibly by hitting a solid object with hardened bolts in the place of your shear pins. ALWAYS use soft shear pins!

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From your information above, it sounds like a broken gear or tooth on the auger gearbox. (this could happen if you hit an object and your shear pin did not break, instead breaking your gear) Hope this helps.

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Do not start to do this but put the blower in gear like you would run to drive its self and try to turn the wheels by hand and if they turn easily then you may have a shear pin that is broken or missing in the drive pulley.
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If auger and the impeller are not turning your cable is out of adjustment.
If only the auger doesn't turn, and the shear pins are ok then the brass/bronze gear has shredded which is why proper shear pins must be used. Donyboy73 on youtube show how to replace that gear on an older but similar MTD affiliated blower.

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