Question about Miele Washing Machines

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My Miele 4840 washer has a F 20(heater) and F 34 (door lock)fault. The problem seems to be a water flow problem though. The water keeps running and will not turn off.

I had to cancel a program because it got stuck in a rinse/drain loop (it seemed like anyway) when the program was supposed to be spinning. When I stopped the program - I started a rinse program to get the get a rinse. I had to stop that too - because the same thing happened. I did a drain spin program to get the water out - but the water kept on flowing in the machine. I cancelled the program - and at the door unlocked - but the water kept on flowing into the machine. The only way to get the water to stop was to turn it off from the house connection. NO fault code appeared from the intake system .

Posted by Anonymous on

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  • Miele Master
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The water pressure level switch is a pressure activated switch that is used to determine the correct water level in the tub. This part is normally located behind the control panel and will have a hose or air dome tube that connects it to the tub. On washers that use an electronic control, this switch may be located at the sump area below the tub. As the water fills in the tub it will compress the air in the tube and push against a diaphragm inside the switch. The switch will control the water inlet valve and turn the valve off at the correct water level. If the tube has a leak, not enough pressure may be created to activate the switch and the washer may overfill. If the switch is defective it may also cause the machine to overfill. To determine if the switch is bad, you should first eliminate the air dome hose as a problem. Look for signs of cracks or worn areas on the hose. Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. If the air dome hose appears to be ok, then the water level switch may be defective.

You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube.
If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good
( No wash- then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED).
Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually.
# 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch.
(where the wire plugs into) take note of wether it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same test agin on all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open.


The other item to check would be your water inlet valve. Check it for continuity with a multi meter it should show Ohms or a closed circuit. To test it when water is overflowing unplug the unit and see if it still overflows or continues to fill. If it stops when unplugged. Then it is not a water inlet problem but an electrical signal problem going to ur water inlet valve. Possibly from the panel or board. You can also do a live volt test to see if it is getting the full 120 current, but be sure to unplug unit before testing as this is a live test.
Also another trick to check the water valve, is to first cut the water off and remove the hoses off the back of the washer. Then one at a time point the hoses inside the washer tub and turn the water back on. If you don't have good water pressure, turn the water back off and remove the strainer that should be in one end of the hose. Inspect the strainer to see if it is stopped up, clean it and reinstall it. Now repeat this test. If you have good water pressure now, reinstall hose and your problem is fixed

By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!






Posted on Jan 15, 2017

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Display shows 'fault waterproof'. what is wrong?


I have been trouble shooting my own Miele issue and may have found your answer, which seems to be easily fixed. Apparently one can reset the water fault sensor by tipping the machine forward at 45 degrees. If water comes out the bottom pan, then you will have reset the sensor. You should check for leaks especially in the door gasket. However if it comes on again, you probably have a leak that you need to address.

Aug 31, 2015 | Miele W5877 Edition 111 Washing Machine,...

Tip

My Miele washing machine is locked.


Recently I received many requests from users in troubles because they could not unlock their washing machine.

I decided to publish a tip illustrating the unlock procedure.

These instructions apply to most Miele front loading washing machines. They will work on all the W4800 series washers.
Instructions on how to set on and off your Miele’s child lock function are also contained in the user manual.

If you attempt to open the door while the Child Lock function is activated you will get the message "Machine locked" and the picture below on display:

fcd46c0.gif


If the door lock is locked during the wash cycle, press the pause button, and the door will open.

In order to deactivate the Child Lock:

  • Press and hold the "Heavy Soil" button until the display shows an unlocked pad lock picture and says Ready to Use (hold up to ten seconds, it should be less).

If you want to re-activate the Child Lock:

  • Press and hold the "Heavy Soil" again, until the display shows a locked pad lock picture and says Ready to Use .



The drum door cannot be opened, and the machine may stay locked if one of conditions below is occurring:

  1. The water temperature is more than 55°C (130°F).
  2. The water level is too high.
  3. The Child Lock function is activated.
  4. There is a fault.

If the washer is in one of the above conditions, you will get the machine locking even if child lock is off.

If the door is locked because of a fault, and there is water in the drum, the machine will also lock up.

In that case the door will open only after accessing the drain pump.
The pump service door is opened using a tool stored behind the dispenser drawer.

The tool must be used only after disconnecting power.

I think I will post a detailed procedure on how to fix a blocked drain pump on the next tip.

I hope this tip has helped you to fix your problem.

Goodbye.

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1 Answer

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Here is what I would do;
1. Determine if you have noticed a change. i.e was the coffee hotter in the past or has it always been this temperature. If the cups are cold or the amount of water used for each cup is small then the resulting coffee will be cooler than if warm cups were used or if the amount of water used was larger. Also if the water is not hot enough you will not get a good Crema and coffee taste will not be correct.
2. Assuming the problem is not '1' above then the likely causes is the flow through water heater. This heater is used to heat water for coffee and also for the hot water. So if the hot water pipe is also not producing hot water then you know it's a problem with the flow through water heater or power control of this module. In addition to the actual heater there is a temperature limiter, temperature fuse and a temperature sensor. If some heating occurs then it is not the temperature fuse. But it could be a fault in the actual heater, the sensor or the limiter. These components are at mains voltage and thus identification of the fault and replacement of defective parts should ONLY be performed by a trained Miele technician. So if this is the problem its best to call Miele.
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If the water flows though the inlet then the flow pressure should be good, if not the inlet valve is bad or there is dirt in the filter. Also check the flow at the inlet of the water line. Once the water comes into the system the WATER LEVEL SENSOR - normally a pressure switch- must activate at the preset/chosen level to give the signal to the program controller to switch on the motor. What is most important for the motor to start functioning is that the door switch must be ON when the door is shut or this will be an error for starting the motor for rinse and wash.

Test a pressure switch: Click on : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZZ2bDMspj8

Check this link to replace the inlet valve:
http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1408/how-to-replace-the-inlet-valve-on-a-washer-dr.html

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Hi My dishwasher seems to get stuck in a cycle when you start it - it lets water in for around 20 secs - then pumps it out - then lets water in for say 20 secs then pumps it out - over and over and...


Hello Gerard,

This is an overfill 'fault' generally caused by one of the following:

1. Faulty or incorrectly installed flow-meter
2. An airlock in the fill chamber
3. Faulty float switch (less likely)

There are some simple checks you can do to determine the cause of the fault and hopefully solve the problem without replacing any parts - no tools required at this point.

First, open the door, pull out the lower basket and locate the float. This is the 'mushroom' in the base of the washing compartment:

belectric_200.jpg
With the washer empty of water, make sure the float is fully lowered. There should be a gap of 2-3mm between the float and the base of the washer and you should be able to lift it about half an inch / 12-15mm. When you lift it, it should fall when you let go. If it's raised when the washer is empty, it should not rise again on its own when pushed down.

If the float seems to be working correctly, the controller is receiving erroneous signals from the flow-meter that the washer is full or overfilled. This causes the washer to pump out - then resume the fill cycle because the water level is too low to start the wash. If this is caused by an air-lock, there is a simple trick to clear the air-lock and, therefore, the fault.

1. Start a wash cycle and keep you finger ready on the power switch on the control panel.
2. As soon as you hear the pump start during the fill cycle, interrupt the cycle by pressing the power switch to the off position
3. Wait for about 10 seconds, then switch the power on again.

The machine should resume filling rather than pumping out. Keep your finger ready on the power switch and repeat steps 2 and 3 until the washer is filled and the washing cycle starts. If you can get the washer to run a cycle using this trick, you may not need to do anything else, but you may need to repeat the procedure described above at the start of the next few cycles.

If the washer does not resume filling and continues pumping when you switch the power on again or you have to repeat the procedure above at the start of every wash cycle before it will run, you will need to check the flow-meter and, most likely, replace it.

I'm happy to provide step-by-step assistance with checking and replacing the flow-meter if required, but please check the float and try the simple trick above first, then let me know if you need further assistance.

Hope this helps.

Regards,
BElectric

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