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Samsung refrigerator/ bottom freezer gets cold to only 25F (refrigerator) 36F (freezer)will not freeze? Makes loud humming noise from motor What parts & /or repair is needed? Ice maker will not engage

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  • Samsung Master
  • 5,323 Answers

First off a humming noise from motor compressor usually means bad compressor,

FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these

Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly.

Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air.

But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer.


Condenser
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..

THE COMPRESSOR:
If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed.

To check ur compressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, some located next to compressor in a casing.

You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground.

Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms

Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity

TO REPLACE RELAY AND CAPACITOR WITH A HARDSTART KIT YOU CAN USE

A 3 in 1 start kit for compressors sizes 1/4 through 1/3 HP. And a 5 in 1 for higher H.P. (BE SURE TO MATCH WITH UR COMPRESSOR MODEL NUMBER AND TYPE) The kit includes relay, capacitor, and overload device, pre-wired. The kit will replace all 3 electrical components on capillary refrigeration systems. For newer systems with a run capacitor use proper kit. For smaller horsepower compressors useTJ90RCO810.

The wire set up is as follows the red wire goes to the right side of compressor prong, the white wire to the left side prong, the black wire to the center prong, and the 2 other black wires go to the power and the ground connection



Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required.


Read more:

http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ

REMEMBER GOD IS THE REASON FOR GOOD ADVICE"



Refrigerator Is Not Cooling What To Check And How To Fix

Posted on Dec 27, 2016

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Humming in Whirlpool Side by Side Refrigerator

It is probably just your water inlet solenoid being activated. Not to be concerned.

Posted on Sep 28, 2007

  • 22 Answers

SOURCE: refrigerator

the fan behind the ice maker is iced up poss fault defrost heater gone try total defrost faor a list 36 hrs restart it noise come back then you need to repace the defrost heater hope this helps

Posted on Nov 13, 2008

  • 172 Answers

SOURCE: Sears Bottom Freezer Refrigerator - Loud humming noise

That sound is usually your icemaker calling for water. you can turn off your icemaker by lifting the little arm on the icemaker. As the icemaker calls for water the valve will be activated and will hum. This sound is usually not very loud. If your valve is making that much noise you may consider replacing the valve. The part number for you water inlet valve is #2315533 The retail price is $60.18 . I do have these on hand and available to ship out today if you need one. Please just let me know. You may also consider replacing your filter if your refrigerator has one. Thanks and I hope this will fixYa
Michael Anderson
Anderson Appliance
(865)945-3808

Posted on Feb 17, 2009

  • 10 Answers

SOURCE: Amana refrigerators is not staying cold and

What you have is a compressor not starting. It is kicking off on the overload protector. This is caused by a failed relay or the compressor being locked up. Amana does have some models under a recall for that relay. Call (866) 533-9817 to verify. If it is a locked up compressor there may be a 5yr warranty on it. You can call Amana directly to verify that too.

Posted on Jul 30, 2009

hiltonjug
  • 612 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidaire side by side freezer - LOUD noise...

It sounds like the evaporator fan is hitting ice that is built up on the evaporator coil. When it's making the noise, open the freezer door and see if it stops.
(Most models are wired so that the evaporator fan cuts off when the freezer door is open.)
Check the inside back, lower panel of the freezer for ice built up or frost on it. If there is, you have a defrost problem that is most likley a bad heater. It's located around the coil inside the freezer behind the panel you will be looking at. The defrost problem would explain the freezer not freezing ice cream.

Posted on Nov 12, 2009

Testimonial: "I turned off the freezer side and it defrost for a few hours. Then I turned it back on and its working fine for 2 days now. "

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It sounds like the evaporator fan is hitting ice that is built up on the evaporator coil. When it's making the noise, open the freezer door and see if it stops.
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. Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start.
Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay.
Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm


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That sound is usually your icemaker calling for water. you can turn off your icemaker by lifting the little arm on the icemaker. As the icemaker calls for water the valve will be activated and will hum. This sound is usually not very loud. If your valve is making that much noise you may consider replacing the valve. The part number for you water inlet valve is #2315533 The retail price is $60.18 . I do have these on hand and available to ship out today if you need one. Please just let me know. You may also consider replacing your filter if your refrigerator has one. Thanks and I hope this will fixYa
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