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My dryer will not run. Panel lights up, but won't run when you push the start button. Only beeps. What could be the problem?

It is a Kenmore Auto moisture sensing dryer.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore elite he3 electric dryer

If you get a series of four rapid beeps when you push START in an attempt to start your dryer, your door switch (interlock) is defective.  I have experienced this problem before and it is a fairly simple problem to fix.  The easiest way to tell is to open the dryer door and push the door interlock in by hand.  Hold it in while pushing the START button.  If the dryer starts, then all you have is a simple problem of the door not closing properly.  If the dryer still does not start, however, replace the dryer door interlock.  The interlock should also make a definite "click" while pushing it in.  If it does not, the switch is worn out.  Some dryers have an upper and lower door interlock.  If yours is equipped with two interlocks, make sure they are both functioning and that the door is latched properly.  I have experienced problems where dryers doors with two interlocks would close at the top, but not at the bottom.  The dryer would not start as a result.  If you can provide me with your model number I can get a part number and price for you.  I can also tell you where you can get the part and provide instructions on how to replace it.  Let me know.  I hope this helps you.

Posted on Oct 31, 2007

SOURCE: whirlpool dryer

1) sounds like that accudry sensor needs checking. If the accudry sensor (the back box with the two silver trips in it under the lint filter) does not sense wet garment it coul cause the dry to start and then cut off or not start at all. did you try using a cycle that does not sense the load you are dying. 2) the mother board of the dry may need chnaging depening on your dryer. if your dryer is like the cabrio, duet or the senseon dryer then it could be a motherboard problem.

Posted on May 20, 2008

  • 10865 Answers

SOURCE: whirlpool dryer will not spin

Since your dryer is "new" it is under warranty. I will explain the possible reasons why it will not spin. Then you can decide whether to make the warranty call or not.

If your dryer doesn't tumble, check these:

Belt
Motor
Door switch
Belt Dryers have a drive belt that turns the clothes drum. If the belt breaks, the drum stops rotating. Then you need to replace the belt, and often the idler pulley, because the pulley tends to wear out at the same time.

Click here for a belt installation diagram.

Motor If the dryer motor only hums when you press the Start button, the motor may be burned out. Here's how to test the dryer motor:

  • Remove the belt.

  • Check for obstructions in the blower fan housing.

  • Manually rotate the shaft of the motor.

If the motor is very stiff, or impossible to rotate manually, and the blower fan housing is clear, you need to replace the motor.

If the motor rotates freely, run the motor momentarily with the belt removed and the blower in place. If the motor runs fine with the belt removed, there may be a problem with the idler pulley or the clothes drum. Try to rotate the drum by hand. If it is very difficult to move, correct any problem with the rollers or pulley, and then reassemble the dryer and try it again.

If the motor hums but doesn't rotate on its own even with the belt removed--yet you can turn it freely by hand--you usually need to replace the motor or the motor start capacitor.

Door switch Your dryer can't operate at all if the door switch is defective. It's inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

Posted on May 21, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Turning Off before clothes are dry...

Repair of a Kenmore Electric Dryer Model 110.62942100
Dryer not heating

I just spent several hours repairing my electric clothes dryer, and wanted to share my experience with others that may wish to do a similar repair. Some of my time was spent reading online postings similar to this one. The majority of my time was spent driving a few times to the Sears Parts Outlet, until I finally got all of the right parts. I could have saved myself a lot of time and effort by doing some simple testing up front. And these tests are real simple, which I will explain below. I wish I knew then what I know now about the repair and troubleshooting steps. It was actually quite easy.

First, the Owner’s Manual is vague about the repair. Under troubleshooting, there is the category of “Not Drying Satisfactorily” with a possible cause that “One fuse is blown or circuit breaker is tripped. The dryer will appear to operate, but you will not get any heat.” The solution says “Replace fuse or reset breaker”. In my case, the circuit breaker was obviously not tripped since the blower motor and controls were still working on the dryer. With that, it felt like the Thermal Fuse 3390719 was the culprit.

Start by unplugging the dryer. Then, the Toe Panel at the front bottom of the dryer comes off easily by inserting a flat head screwdriver along the top edge of the panel, about 4” from the left and the right sides. Pull forward as the screwdriver presses on the retaining clips. The panel is supported by two clips at the bottom, and will then just lift off.

What I found when the toe panel was removed was several years of lint, dust, and animal hair. A surprising amount all over. Having seen this, I suggest that part of Spring cleaning is to remove the toe panel and vacuum the inside of a dryer. Next, to reach the thermal fuse easier, remove the black metal lint duct assembly. Start by removing the lint screen from inside the dryer. Then, remove the two ¼” sheet metal screws on the left and the right of the duct. Now, the only thing holding the lint duct in place is a metal clip at the bottom left, which is pinched in place to the dryer frame. I used a flat head screwdriver to pop it off. The lint duct assembly can now be removed. Here also, I was surprised at how much lint had built up inside the duct. Clean it out thoroughly. Any build up can restrict air flow and waste energy, or be a direct cause to the No Heat problems of the dryer due to poor air flow and heat build up.

With the lint duct out of the way, the thermal fuse is accessible on the top right of the blower housing, as well as the Thermistor 3976615 on its right. What I should have done right here is take the blue wires off of the thermal fuse connectors, and tested it in place for continuity with the fuse still in place. Clean off any dust built up on the inner face of the fuse itself. A basic tester sounded a beep when I touched both connectors, which indicates continuity – or that it is still a good fuse. Install new fuse if needed, and reconnect the wires.

I would do a little more testing first prior to attempting to turn the dryer back on. After all, if the fuse blew, there was a reason. There may still be other things to consider, and you don’t want to risk blowing a brand new fuse.

At this point, I firmly recommend removing the Heater Box and Wire Heater Element assembly. I say this because it actually becomes easier to clean out burnt lint as well as test a few more things. There was enough lint all around and inside this and in the back of the assembly that could have caused overheating due to poor sensor readings.

Start by removing the heat plate at the front. Then, disconnect the six wires from the three devices: heater element, Thermal Cut-Off 3977394 and the Thermostat 3390291. I wrote down the color sequence of the wires to make certain to put them back on the same way. Next, remove the two screws at the bottom of the mounting plate that holds the assembly in place. The heat assembly should now wiggle around some, and be connected at the back of the dryer. There are no screws at the back – all you need to do is rotate the heater assembly counter clockwise about a quarter turn, and it should come out. The entire heater assembly can now be removed from the dryer.

With the Greenlee, I tested for continuity on all three devices: Heater Element, Thermal Cut-Off, and the Thermostat. All three should return an audible beep from the tester, indicating continuity exists. In my case, only the Heater Element was bad and actually had a break in it from overheating. One screw holds the heater element in the housing, so it is easily removed. I had to press on the housing a little to unbind the sides of the heater element, and then it slid right out. The housing can now be cleaned out. Assuming the thermal cut-off and the thermostat tested fine for continuity, all I would do is reach inside the heater housing and clean off the lint and dust build up on these devices, since they appear to be working. Install the new heater element.

While I had everything apart, I cleaned out the flexible duct in the back, vacuumed everywhere inside and out, and even used compressed air to clean out any remaining lint and dust that I could. Reassemble the heater box into the dryer in reverse order. Make sure all of the wires are properly reconnected to all of the devices. Make sure everything is screwed back together properly. Now, reassemble the lint duct by attaching the clip to the dryer and setting the duct in place, and then screwing the two screws back in place. Plug the dryer in and turn it on. If all went well, the heater element should glow orange and there should be heat

Posted on Jul 23, 2010

richroth
  • 9472 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore HE5 dryer won't start

Several different problems could prevent your dryer from running. Make sure that the door is firmly closed and hold down the start button for a couple of seconds to start the dryer. If you hear a click from the control board then the door switch and the control board are likely okay. You could have a blown thermal fuse or a broken belt in the dryer. To check these components,unplug the dryer and remove the bottom front service panel as shown in the first image below. With this panel removed, you can tell whether the drive belt is broken. If the drive belt is okay, I recommend checking the thermal fuse. This fuse is located on the blower housing as shown in the second image below. It will have light blue wires attached. To test the fuse, remove one wire and measure the resistance across the leads of the fuse with a volt/ohm meter. You should measure near zero ohms of resistance (continuity). If you measure infinite resistance, then the fuse is blown and will need to be replaced. You can verify that this is your failure by taping the contacts of the light blue wires together with electrical tape to "bypass" the thermal fuse. Reassemble the dryer and see if the motor runs with this fuse bypassed. If it does, then this verifies that the blown thermal fuse prevented the dryer from running and that this was the only failure. NOTE: Do not continue to run the dryer beyond this brief test with the thermal fuse bypassed. This component must be replaced. It is an important safety feature of the dryer.

You can order a new thermal fuse from the Sears PartsDirect website. The part number is 3392519.

Posted on May 01, 2012

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Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage.

CHECK THERMAL SHUT OFF THERMOSTAT USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BLOWER. for OHMS or resistance with a meter. Should show a closed circuit. Ohms WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS IT WILL SHUT DOWN EVERYTHING.

NEXT Test the PUSH start switch with meter for OHMS. Should show OHMS when pushed in or on start, and no ohms or infinity when in off position.

If you hear a humming/clicking sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor.
Try this test out to see if u have weak windings or relay/capacitor on motor.
Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is on ON position. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings

Another thing to check is the belt safety switch. With a multi meter.
Especially if u just replaced the belt. The belt safety switch is attached to the Tensioner and motor. IT LOOKS LIKE A DOOR SWITCH SOMEWHAT a little black pc of plastic with 2 prongs going into it. Sits at bottom of motor. Under the Tensioner. Attach meter clips to the 2 prongs on switch, Then when the little white push button is pressed in it should show continuity and none when released.

Lastly check ur DOOR SWITCH for continuity with a meter when the button is pushed in the (on/Door closed position,) it may have gone bad.

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If you get a series of four rapid beeps when you push START in an attempt to start your dryer, your door switch (interlock) is defective.  I have experienced this problem before and it is a fairly simple problem to fix.  The easiest way to tell is to open the dryer door and push the door interlock in by hand.  Hold it in while pushing the START button.  If the dryer starts, then all you have is a simple problem of the door not closing properly.  If the dryer still does not start, however, replace the dryer door interlock.  The interlock should also make a definite "click" while pushing it in.  If it does not, the switch is worn out.  Some dryers have an upper and lower door interlock.  If yours is equipped with two interlocks, make sure they are both functioning and that the door is latched properly.  I have experienced problems where dryers doors with two interlocks would close at the top, but not at the bottom.  The dryer would not start as a result.  If you can provide me with your model number I can get a part number and price for you.  I can also tell you where you can get the part and provide instructions on how to replace it.  Let me know.  I hope this helps you.

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