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I need the plastic spacer for my dryer that holds the drum.its on top and middle of the front panel

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  • kakima Dec 25, 2016

    Hi Jimmy ocana, I want to help you with your question, but I need more information from you. Can you please add details in the comment box?

    What make and model?

  • Jimmy ocana Dec 25, 2016

    Its a frigidaire gallery dryer and# glgr341as4

  • Jimmy ocana Dec 25, 2016

    cant find part.please can you help me

  • Jimmy ocana Dec 25, 2016

    What would the part number be.ive seen the diagrams of the dryer and cant locate the spacer.its the white plastic brace thats mounted on top and middle of the front panel and supporting the drum

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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FRANKSFIXIT
  • 72 Answers

SOURCE: Squeeking noise

Here's a possible troubleshooting fix I just sent to someone else that quite possibly has the same problem you have there now.

Hope it helps you out as well, as it is a bit long, but I'll post the whole reply I sent them and you can use whatever parts of it that will work for you.

Hi,

My name is Frank...

Regarding your possibly broken dryer.

I'm hoping that this info below helps you out even though I know I won't be able to repair/fix your dryer myself personally. Reason why - I'll explain further down.

I've repaired a few gas dryers & washing machines as well in my time. I can honestly say that I'm as close to being an expert as they come - esp when it comes to making repairs on existing dryer parts that can no longer be purchased as they are either obsolete, or way over-priced.

This is what I do for a semi-retired hobby, and sideline self-employed FIX-IT business. Named appropriately - FRANK'S FIX-IT SHOP. It's only an online fix it at present. Keeps me busy instead of being bored to death.

Electric clothes dryers are typically made the same as gas dryers - as to the mechanical drum part. Only thing different in a gas unit is the 110VAC electrical igniter or element, and the gas delivery system that provides the drying heat to the dryer itself.

All else is basically the same...

In an electric clothes dryer all the power comes from the 220VAC source as to the heating element, etc. The mechanical parts are typically the same as that of a gas dryer.

Having said this - the problem with your dryer can only have one of possibly 2 things wrong with it - seeings it's no doubt 220VAC totally electric, unless you actually have gas where you are there, which is rare in Florida these days!

If after you start the drying cycle you quickly open the dryer door, and you notice the drum is actually rotating - until there is the loss of electric power via a safety door switch that kills electric power to the drum motor activity - then there is NOT a problem with a broken drum belt.

If your dryer is older then say 10-15 years, and you really use it alot - then maybe there's a possibility of a broken drum belt (cost is around $10-15 for a new belt part depending on model - usually - and that does not include labor to install it).

Usually you'll hear the motor whining, but no drum 'noise' or movement. Dead giveaway as to a broken belt.

I had replaced 2 belts and 1 IDLER wheel on my own 30+ year old gas Kenmore dryer before selling it, and then picked up a more recent newer model GE washer & gas dryer that someone was just giving away for free. My 30+ year old Kenmore washer had just died on me at the same time is why I upgraded. Can't pass up a great freebie deal like that everyday! Never had to fix anything on my Kenmore washer during the time I owned it - it was GREAT!! I miss it dearly now.....

Though they were both newer GE models I really don't care for GE anything, as I think they are poorly built, as well as is their refrigerator brands as well.

Don't buy GE anything if you don't have to!! You heard it here from me and I know. My GE washer already broke a belt not even being 8-9 years old, and it was hell to replace, and never worked right afterwords as for the water pump part. Very POOR design! Oh well...

The gas dryer works fine, but the lint collector is not anywhere as good as my old Kenmore was. Poor design in my opinion.

I'm looking for another Kenmore or Whirlpool (set) model now, as they are the best. Kenmores are made by Whirlpool btw, just in case you didn't know that. The best in the business!

As to your other possible noise scenario -

The only other weird noise scenario you'll experience if it's a Kenmore dryer is when the drum "spring loaded track IDLER wheel" goes bad. This drum IDLER wheel is located under the drum itself at the back part of the drum and rides in a groove in the drum itself. It also helps to stabilize and counter-balance the drive belt-loaded turning drum that rides on this drum IDLER wheel as it turns. If your dryer does have the rear drum IDLER wheel system, then it just depends on the make and model. Kenmores & Whirlpools are designed this way. Very good design I might add!!

Some, or all GE dryer models may have a rear drum centering bearing assy instead - and in addition to - a front (Support, 3 glide front drum bearing part# 2359 & a Drum front slide bearing part# 2305 times 3 needed). If this/these front support/slide bearing part(s) goes bad usually the "felt duct" will need to be replaced as well. It not only helps to seal and quiet the drum that runs on the Support part, but it also helps to keep clothes from getting in-between the Support C part and helps prevent clothes from getting damaged. If those (3) friction sliders wear out or fall out, and take out or damage the "felt duct" as well, then the noise will be horrendously LOUD.

The front part of the GE drum models usually rides on a separate front panel support assy which can be made of a plastic C shaped device with anti-friction pad strips to help in frictionless rotation of the drum. A cheap but pretty effective design that does away with a front IDLER wheel, or pair of IDLER wheels as it were at the front of the dryer's frame which houses the door assy as well.

Though my Kenmore replacement drum IDLER wheel only cost me around $17 many years ago I see they now are anywhere in the $30+ range. Ouch! If it's the GE rear bearing assy that has gone bad - another Ouch as that part runs around $50+. Just depends on where you are and parts availability.

Most Kenmore/Whirlpool model dryers with the rear spring loaded drum IDLER wheel design do not have a ball bearing design, but rather have a typical cheaper brass bushing design instead, and when the grease lubricant dries out or they become dirty from picking up dirt in the air such as lint from the drum, etc then they begin to SQUEAL or WHINE very loudly.

The longer this goes on like this the hotter the drum IDLER track wheel gets until it melts the "typically" molded plastic housing, and then it really makes a lot of noise, and could actually lend to the drum belt breaking - as due from the added friction & stress from the binding wheel. It can also damage the front "felt duct" material as well. I had to repair mine as best I could as they had n factory replacement part that I knew off.

The only other mechanical parts that could possibly make any squealing type noise would be the electric belt drive motor or the heat blower motor being gas or electric. If the heat blower motor uses a cheaper brass sleeve shaft bushing bearing that would be rare, but could be a noise source as well. The belt drive motor rarely rarely would ever go bad!!

I hope this info helps to narrow down your problem if you are not able to at least open the top up to inspect the dryer yourself. Always unplug the 110VAC power before opening any cover or panel part up though!

That will not only prevent any electrical shock hazard, but will also keep the gas from turning on by mistake - as by solenoid design - if your dryer is gas.

I suspect this is what's wrong with your dryer.

Again - I hope the info helps you out...

Best regards,

Frank

Posted on Mar 05, 2008

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  • 1073 Answers

SOURCE: Replace belt on Whirlpool LE09508KQ1 Electricl Dryer

remove the lint fiter and remove the two phillips screws then lift the top up
you will find two screws on each side of the inside of the frount panel down about 4 inches , this when removed will allow you to swing the frount arround to gain access to the belt

Posted on Apr 30, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: removing top from Whirlpool Gold Ultimate Care Model GEQ8858KQ0 Dryer

Here is the answer to my own question and for anyone else who may have a similar noise problem with coins , metal objects, etc getting under the vanes or fins in the dryer drum. DISCONNECT OR UNPLUG DRYER-Remove 4 screws from the back edge of the control panel on the back of the dryer. Then lift up on the backside of the cover that also has the control unit attached to it. Slide the top cover towards the front of the dryer and then lift up on front and lay the entire cover and control panel towards the back of the dryer. A wall works great to hold this out of your way. The control panel remains on the cover and the drum will stay intact. Rotate the drum to locate which fin or vane the object is located. Move this vane to top and then remove three screws that is holding the vane. These are course threaded screws that screw into the plastic vanes. a nu6t driver was required. After removing the vane I found a quarter, and a few lint balls, There are only three vanes in the drum, so take about 10 more minutes and remove all three vanes to clean out the lint.To reinstall cover slide the cover back onto the two clips(one on each side) push towards back, checking to make sure front is held down by the clips, then replace the 4 screws on backside of dryer. If the lady of the house is around, it would now be a good time to clean out from behind and under the dryer to get up the rest of the dust, lint, and whatever remains or was lost.

Posted on Sep 02, 2008

aborcass
  • 2651 Answers

SOURCE: Need to replace the screws that holds the drum baffle in place

remove the scresw holding the door on, remove the door, the remove the 2 screws oppisite th edoor inge and the front panel will lift off. there will be 2 5/16 screws holding the top down to the frame of unit, the top will then lift up[ giving you acces to the outside of the drum to resecure the drum baffle

Posted on Nov 21, 2008

mark_37388
  • 100 Answers

SOURCE: I NEED TO REMOVE THE FRONT PANEL OF MY KENMORE 8 SERIES GAS DRYER

One of two ways depending on oh made this unit GE or WPL FIRST look at the top of the door opening for two screws if there is no screws get a flat head screw drive and look with a flash light between the top and front pane you should see a clip about 2 inches from the sides going tworge the middle use a flat screwdriver place in the crack between the top and front panel and hit the back of the screwdriver with you hand should push the clip back an the top pop up do the same onthe other side (before you start if you lent filter goes in the top of the dryer remove the two screws holding that down to remove the front in the side panel going into the front is a screw on both side remove then lift the front up too unclip the bottom clips good luck.

Posted on Mar 30, 2009

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1 Answer

Model 5030D


Instructions

1

Unplug the electrical cord of the dryer from the electrical outlet before attempting to fit a new belt on the dryer.
2

Remove the lint screen from under the lint screen cover and locate the screws that are underneath the cover.


Unfasten the screws with a screwdriver and remove them from the lint filter slot, setting the screws aside.
4

Place a putty knife between the top and the cabinet on both sides of the dryer near the front, lifting up to dislodge the lid from the plastic clips that hold the top down.
5

Flip the top back toward the back of the dryer and let it rest against the back wall.
6

Locate the front kick panel and slide the putty knife just behind both sides of the panel, pulling forward to unfasten the panel from the plastic clips. Move the panel out of the way.
7

Locate the screws that hold the front panel on the dryer cabinet at the top on the inside of the cabinet. Remove the screws using a screwdriver.
8

Unfasten the electrical wire connector by hand, pulling it straight out from the back of the front panel. Move the panel out of the way.
9

Place a couple of wood blocks under the front of the dryer drum to support it while you are removing the old belt. The drum is the cylinder that holds the clothes as they are drying, located just behind the front panels.
10

Push the idler arm forward just a bit to relieve the tension on the belt, and slide the belt off the idler and motor pulleys. The idler arm is located next to the motor near the back of the dryer and has a pulley on a metal arm with a tension spring attached to it.
11

Lift the drum up off the blocks just a bit, slide the old belt off of the drum, and take it out of the dryer cabinet.
12

Hold the drum up just enough to slide the new dryer belt around the drum and fit the belt into the V-slot in the center of the drum, laying the remainder of the belt on the bottom of the cabinet near the idler pulley so you can access it easily.
13

Loop the end of the belt around the idler pulley and over the motor pulley, pushing back on the idler pulley to release the tension on the belt.
14

Let the idler pulley move back into place and check the alignment on the belt to verify that it is seated properly on the drum and the pulleys.
15

Remove the wood blocks from under the drum when the new belt is installed and attach the front kick panel to the dryer cabinet, pressing the panel onto the plastic clips.
16

Place the front panel over the kick panel and attach the electrical wire connector to the back of the panel by hand, pressing the connector back over the electrical prongs on the back of the panel.
17

Attach the screws at the top of the front panel on the inside of the cabinet with a screwdriver. Lower the top of the dryer back down over the cabinet.
18

Press the top of the dryer down over the plastic clips until the lid is secure and fasten the screws on the inside of the lint filter cover.
19

Slide the lint filter into the lint filter slot and plug the electrical cord of the dryer into the electrical outlet.

Jan 09, 2013 | Hoover Dryers

1 Answer

The belt attached to the blower wheel on my Whirlpool Cabrio dryer has come off. How do I reattach it?


Unplug the power cord of the Whirlpool dryer from the electrical outlet before installing a new belt. Remove the lint filter from underneath the lint filter cover. 2 Unfasten the screws underneath the lint filter cover with a screwdriver, setting the screws in a safe place. Slide a putty knife between the dryer top and the cabinet near the front, lifting up on the knife to detach the top from the plastic clips on the cabinet.3 Flip the dryer top back against the wall so it is resting on the rear hinges. Locate the screws on the inside of the upper front panel near the top.4 Unfasten the screws on the inside of the upper front panel with a screwdriver. Lift the panel up off the metal clips on the front of the dryer cabinet. 5 Unplug the door switch connector from the back of the upper front panel by hand, setting the panel out of the way. Slide the putty knife between the lower front panel and the dryer cabinet, pulling the knife away from the cabinet to detach the panel from the plastic clips on the cabinet.6 Place a couple of wood blocks under the lip of the dryer drum to hold it in place. Locate the idler arm near the motor at the base of the dryer.7 Move the idler arm forward to relieve the tension on the belt. Take the belt off the motor and idler arm pulleys, lifting the drum up and sliding the belt off the drum.8 Install a new belt around the dryer drum, looping it over the idler arm and around the motor pulley. Move the idler arm back into position to add tension to the new belt.9 Remove the wood blocks from underneath the lip of the dryer drum. Plug the door switch connector into the back of the upper front panel by hand.10 Slide the upper front panel over the metal clips on the front of the dryer cabinet, securing the top of the panel with screws. Fasten the lower front panel to the front of the dryer cabinet, pressing the panel onto the plastic clips by hand.11 Flip the dryer top back down onto the top of the cabinet, pressing down to secure the top to the plastic clips on the cabinet. Fasten the screws underneath the lint filter cover with a screwdriver.12 Slide the lint filter back under the lint filter cover by hand. Plug the power cord of the Whirlpool dryer into the electrical outlet.
  • Oct 11, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers

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    Loud humming sound while drying, need instructions on disassembly to properly diagnose


    Disconnect power to dryer. Open door, remove phillips screw from 4 and 8 O'Clock positions, close door. Use putty knife (preferably a plastic one to prevent scratching) to push in the two clips holding the top to the front panel, then swing the top back, revealing the phillips screws holding the front panel onto the body of the dryer. Remove them and un-hook door switch and drum light connections, allowing total removal of dryer front panel. Remove 4 phillips head screws retaining front drum support and lift it up just a bit to remove it. Reach back under drum to the left side to release belt, allowing drum to come out of dryer.

    Jan 29, 2010 | LG DLE2532W Electric Dryer

    1 Answer

    Screeching sound when dryer is running


    This is a bit of a job. The dryer needs to be in the open. The top swings up by pushing a flat blade screwdriver in the seam between the top and the front panels about two inches from the sides to release the latches. With the top up and supported, Remove the two screws that hold the front panel to the side panels. These are inside the cabinet and near the top of the front panel. Disconnect the door switch wiring and remove the front panel. This is when you find all that lent that the filter missed. Remove the small louvered panel on the back near the bottom of the left side and reach inside and disengage the belt from the motor and idler pulleys. Remove the three phillips screws arraigned in a trangle on the back of the drum near the hub inside the dryer. Remove the small plastic spacer? located in the center of the cabinet where the top and front panels come together. I never could figure out what that thing was for. Now the drum will come out the front of the dryer. Go slow as to not mash or cut a finger. The rear bearing is now accessible for lubrication or replacement. It's not that hard, it just takes a while. Good luck.

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    1 Answer

    LG Dryer DLG7188RM LP conversion back to NG


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    To remove drum, Unplug the sensor wire at the bottom of the drum support and remove four phillips screws (going into sides of dryer) holding front drum support and lift up and remove front drum support. Reach in under the drum to unhook the belt. Take drum out.

    Take two phillip screws out of flame spreader and push flame spreader back off brass orifice into the burner cone a bit to remove it. Unscrew brass orifice and replace with the Natural Gas orifice. Turn the brass slot headed regulator blocker screw on the front top of the gas valve all the way up. Reassemble.

    Sounds complicated but it's not real bad.

    A FixYa rating is expected with this much help. Thanks.

    Nov 20, 2008 | LG DLG5932W Gas Dryer

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    Fridgidare dryer problem


    there is a front glide assembly, depending on model will have 3 teflon/plastic glides attached t o the felt, this may be your grinding and gap issue

    Nov 16, 2008 | Dryers

    1 Answer

    Fridgidare dryer problem


    Frigidaire dryers use a post and bearing support system. The noise you hear is the post grinding away on the support.00069740.jpg This is the kit to fix that dryer and a link to the kit
    http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=1851&PPStack=1

    It cost 24 bucks and ships overnight.

    Now to fix it requires a phillip screw driver to undo all those screws, I would start with unplugging the unit, removing the two screws in back for the top panel, two screws for the bottom kick panel, located all the way down, hard to see so tilt unit back to access. Next is four screws at the front corners above the user panel and two inside at front left and right sides about nine inches down, now there are two more at the bottom of this door panel where you pulled the kick panel off. After this there is two wire harness clips, squeeze and pull they come off and gently pull at the top sides as there is retainer clips which secure the panel. Ok? Alright now you see the drum with belt attached, get a flashlight at memorize how the belt loops on the tensioner to the motor pulley and take a photo if needed:) Remove the belt and one more screw top middle in front holding a yellow bumper for the drum. The drum while come off by lifting the back of the drum firmly as it clips in place on the bearing support. Now pull the drum out and if I didnt warn you watch out for sharp edges. You will see the flange with shaft on the drum to replace and the bearing support on the back. The back portion screws together with two screws through a retainer to hold a small ball bearing in, I suggest getting a buddy to hold the back clip when replacing as it is a stretch. In the photo above you will see all the pieces on right go in this order metal clip, plastic cup, ball bearing onto panel and hold clip on back and insert two screws, with a buddy and some grease to hold the ball bearing this is the easy part. The flange has three screws and you must thread them with out stripping the heads off. A buddy again to share the moment is best to hold the drum while you insert the screws. The last part is putting a 1/2 tsp of grease in the plastic cup and following the instructions in reverse. Dont forget the wire harness as you reassemble or the belt looping on the tensioner.

    Searstechtoo

    Sep 13, 2008 | Frigidaire FGR341AC Electric Dryer

    1 Answer

    DRYER HEATS ,BUT DOESN'T TURN


    FIRST UNPLUG UNIT!!
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    Pull front panel out at top and pull up to remove front panel. Put belt around drum with grooved side toward drum.

    Nov 11, 2007 | Whirlpool LGR3624JQ Gas Dryer

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