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My ideal logic combo 30 is giving me hot water which then reduces to lukewarm, any ideas?

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  • Water Master
  • 43,095 Answers

Call a plumber and have them replace the DIP tube

Posted on Apr 09, 2017

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 123 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool self-cleaning water heater--water is hot

I dont know if this is going to post twice but I need to make sure you get it. I sent one asking if this "luke warm" effect occurs during any specific time frames as "self cleaning" water heaters flush the system from time to time. It may in fact be your thermostatic control assembly which sits on the front of the water heater. Let me know about the frequency of the "luke warm" spells and we will see if we can narrow this down.

Thx
P.S. If it is your thermostatic control do not change it yourself unless you know precisely what you are doing. If installed incorrectly they can be very dangerous and life threatening.

Posted on Aug 20, 2009

  • 36 Answers

SOURCE: ideal classic LXFF not igniting but still giving

ch themistor may be faulty,or divertor not working.
these are the two things that may cause this

Posted on Jan 25, 2010

  • 349 Answers

SOURCE: water is lukewarm.

Make sure you have power going to elements from thermostats. check lines going to elements.

Luke warm water is the result of an element gone bad most of the time. One at th etop gone will cause you to get just luke warm water and one at the bottom gone will give you real hot and then cold.


The elements are not to exspensive so if it has two you might as well replace both of them. If you just put 1 new one in it will work the old one till it goes.

Cut power off and cut water off to water heater and drain heater, open hot side on any faucet to help it drain. once drained remove element they have a tube type socket at hardware stores for the removal of it.

Put elements in and fill water heater till all air is out of lines before turning power back on. make sure water is flowing out of all faucets before turning power onto water heater.

The reason being is the elements has to be in water not open air in tank or it will blow new ones.

Posted on May 16, 2010

heatman101
  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: We have a Siemens tankless

Hi,

I don't think that the cold weather is the problem....

The problem would be more like a flow sensor problem or a hot water temperature sensor problem....

The most likely cause would be a flow sensor problem...the sensor is not sensing the proper water flow all of the time and is not then boosting the gas pressure enough to give a hot enough fire for the amount of water flow going through the heater... then the water gets just luke warm....

the flow sensor is probably sticking and needs to be replaced...

heatman101

Posted on Jan 22, 2011

  • 50 Answers

SOURCE: eratic hot water flow

Bosch 1600H NG??? I suppose. If so you need a digital manometer.
Take a static (off) reading then leave it hooked up and start flow. Watch pressure draw down and you should see the heater draw Water Column down below 5" as the pocket of NG in the pipe just before the unit draws down to minimal to keep heater lite. In that case problem in gas line size/gas line run length, Meter pressure.
If you have and maintain in operation 5" WC then is probably the water valve needs rebuilt along with a new diaphgram and also the water filter should be replaced too. This occurs esp after 2-3 year as Bosch specs rebuild at 3 yrs on the Maint Schedule. Also clean all the faucet aerators for good flow above 1.25 GPM Min at all faucets.
Under a single faucet flow (laundry sink) of 2.25 GPM the flame bed of the Unit should be 1"+ high and uniformly Blue.
I assume at this time you either have a Maint problem or you could be overflowing the heater's Winter capacity. This unit @ 70F rise only makes about 2.2 GPM. It's strictly a single use faucet heater at 117,000 BTU.
When you do the Maint look to see if there is corrosion between the GV pushrod and the water valve pushrod. Notice there is a huge mis- match in the 2 rods sizes.These units occasionally (more the 125B) corrode there and the GV will seize on and boil the heater dry and open a seam so you really want to maintain it to Bosch Specs and Schedule.
Note: This is a gas appliance & requires skill and knowledge to service. While Bosch may say you can DIY, I'd readily advise a Bosch approved Service Tech or Plumber do any rebuild. The Digital Manometer alone is a $100-150.00 item and it's the ONLY way to get accurate gas pressure readings.

Posted on Mar 14, 2014

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Hi,
Did they change the thermocaouple or the gas valve/thermostat???
My gues is that they changed the thermocouple and NOT the gas valve which also has the thermostat in it.

The gas valve is the problem... make them change that or give you a new hot water heater.

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Make sure you have power going to elements from thermostats. check lines going to elements.

Luke warm water is the result of an element gone bad most of the time. One at th etop gone will cause you to get just luke warm water and one at the bottom gone will give you real hot and then cold.


The elements are not to exspensive so if it has two you might as well replace both of them. If you just put 1 new one in it will work the old one till it goes.

Cut power off and cut water off to water heater and drain heater, open hot side on any faucet to help it drain. once drained remove element they have a tube type socket at hardware stores for the removal of it.

Put elements in and fill water heater till all air is out of lines before turning power back on. make sure water is flowing out of all faucets before turning power onto water heater.

The reason being is the elements has to be in water not open air in tank or it will blow new ones.

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When i turn on the cold water to adjust the temperature of water - the hot water turns completly off. I cannot turn on the cold water at all. It is either all hot water or all cold.


It might be a question of inadequate flow. All tankless water heaters have a minimum flow rate that must be met, typically .5-.9 gpm, before the heater will operate. In the summer time the incoming ground water temperature is higher, causing you to mix more cold water and less hot water to get a lukewarm temperature. This can reduce your flow rate near or below the minimum flow rate.
Here's a test for you, try running running a sink while taking your next shower. If the hot water remains mostly constant throughout, then your problem is with flow at the showerhead. The flow at a shower head can be reduced by buildup of scale and sediment. Also all showerheads have a flow restrictor that limits flow to 2.5gpm (some even less). Removing the restrictor will increase the showerhead flow rate as well.
Also look for any error code displayed on the digital read out of the heater. Some heaters will flash on their burner indicate light as well.

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