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Presto heat dish stays on even with knob in off position. It will start buzzing after 5 or 10 minutes at lowest possible heat setting. Any ideas?

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Defective switch

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Sounds like the black box that you are talking about is a auto relite kit, usuall is a after market part. Check and make sure the gas is turned on, on some of the older relight kits, they will spark all the time.
On the gas valve is there a pilot position? If so turn it to pilot position and push down on the knob, with the system calling for heat,,,so that you are hearing the buzz, if it does not light, push down on the knob and light the pilot the old fashion way,, with a long match, if the pilot lights, hold the knob down for a minute or so, then let go and turn it back to the "on" position.
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This question has been answered. I was having the same issue and I can tell you that the solution gregstobbe gave worked for my heater.

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The metal dish must be dust free or it will transfer heat to the safety device. If this is not the solution call customer service at 800-877-0441

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I have no doubt that a previous post meant well with the suggestion to remove and bypass the tilt (or "tip") switch but this a very dangerous thing to do. It costs the manufacturer money to incorporate these safety features. It cuts their profit margin so believe me they wouldn't include them if it wasn't absolutely necessary. To eliminate this switch would disable the unit's capability to not only warn you with the buzzer of an upset condition but also ensure that the element will stay on when lying on it's side on the floor!! The only way the heater "knows" that it has been tipped is from this switch opening up and splicing it's wires directly together will forever prevent the detection of an upset heater. If you fall asleep with the unit on and the pooch brushes past it, knocking it over, it will lie on your nice carpet or wood floor silently cooking anything it touches and the alarm won't sound even when you need it. Don't set yourself up for an easy fire.
The buzzer is wired in series with the heating element (coil) and without the two safety switches it would stay on forever (the round button-like devce at the top of the reflector dish is a temperature high limit switch there to prevent a runaway heat condition). These two switches actually short circiut the buzzer so current will flow only through the heater element under normal operation but if either switch opens current can now flow to the alarm buzzer as well. Since the buzzer adds a lot of resistance to the coil/buzzer path it severely reduces the available shared current to the point where the coil won't heat up but since the buzzer only needs a fraction of what the coil does, it sounds off.
Incidently, that high temperature switch can be tripped off (turning on the buzzer) by a dirty reflector because the dirt or crud spilled on the dish prevents full reflection of the developed heat, dramatically increasing the temperature near the limit switch (as a white surface under the sun reflects heat while a black surface absorbs it). It usually takes a few minutes for this to happen. When the switch resets the cycle repeats. However if the alarm sounds immediately for no apparent reason at start up, either switch or the associated wiring will be open circiut.
Many electrical devices that I have serviced have different sized connectors to prevent mixing up their positions when reassembling but these units use identical sized spade terminals so make sure you note their original locations before pulling them off. Transposed wires may appear normal but cause many and varied new problems. Wires normally are routed to avoid strain so if one looks like it is stretching too hard to reach it's terminal it's probably in the wrong spot.

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1 Answer

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We have one in our office where our entry is pretty close to teh main door. It used to buzz all the time after being on for maybe 10 minutes. One day I got sick of it and took a cloth and some windex and cleaned the reflecting dish, and that actually stopped it

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This heater must be flat on the floor or it will buzz, and the metal dish must be clean or it will transfer heat to the safety device. If this does not solve the problem call customer service at 800-877-0441.

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The hardest part of cleaning the dish is that you can't get your hand inside the cage surrounding the dish. What I did was to use a wire cutter to snip enough pieces of the cage off so that I could get access to the dish. If you do it carefully, it looks as if it was intended and doesn't prevent the cage from working. If you think of the cage/dish as a clock, I cut all the strips between 9 and 11, and 1 and 3. Easy to clean the dish afterwards.

That might not solve the buzzing problem, though. It didn't solve it for me.

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buzz? is this heater an infrared or are the heat coils exposed?

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I rewired my heat dish. I UNPLUGGED THE HEAT DISH. I loosened the three screws on the back and removed them. Then I unclipped the dish at the bottom. The dish should be loose and the bottom section of the dish should be detached from the plastic casing. Look inside the casing at the bottom. There is a red cable attached to the buzzer (it’s the silver metallic piece). Detach the red cable from the buzzer. Now look directly behind the buzzer is a black wire that connects to the circuit next the buzzer. Attach the red cable to the female receptor foot the black cable. Plug it in and it should work fine. This will permantly disable the buzzer, SO YOUR HEATDISSH NOW LOINGER HAS A WARNING SYSYTEM. IF YOU TURN YOUR HEATER OVER THE BUZZER DOES NOT GO OFF, THE BUZZER ALSO INDICATES OVERHEATING OF THE UNIT. SO BE CAREFULL. MAKE SURE THE UNIT IS UNPLUGGED WHEN WORKING ON IT. GOOD LUCK AND BE SAFE

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