Question about Kitchen Ranges
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: F7 Code and stove beeps
Function key shorted or stuck button
Replace touch pad or clock assembly (also called the ERC) or attempt to un-stick button
Shorted key sensed for 32 seconds
1. Membrane shorted, or,
2. Display board defectiveIf touch pad is a separate unit then unplug it and see if code comes back. Unplug range before doing so. Once touch pad is disconnected, plug range back in and see if code shows. Wait a few minutes. If no code then replace touch pad. If code does come on while touch pad is disconnected then replace main control. If touch pad and main control are all one part then replace the whole control. Doubt if you would have any luck trying to unstick the bad button as stated above.
Posted on Oct 15, 2007
SOURCE: stove beeping
You have a fault in the range electrical system
Range/Stove/Oven Fault Codes Version 3 Failure
Code Condition Check/Repair F0 & F1 EOC (Electronic Oven Control) failure Replace EOC (Electronic Oven Control)
Posted on Jan 31, 2009
SOURCE: Beeping F11 error on Frigidaire
Hi im an appliance tech and i had the same problem its not the EOC other words control board its actually the speed bake swith its stuck in the on position that why you get a stock keypad error code either f1 or f11 replace that switch or disconnect it and im positive that this will solve it .
Posted on Apr 22, 2009
The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site.
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws.
Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement.
The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven.
If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock.
You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board.
On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced.
If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors.
Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
Posted on Jun 28, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Nov 26, 2014 | Skytech 3301 Thermostatic Gas Fireplace &...
Nov 20, 2014 | Real Fyre 24" Forest Oak Ventless Natural...
Dec 26, 2012 | Brookstone Stunt Copter RC Helicopter
Nov 08, 2012 | Skytech 1001-A Fireplace Remote Control...
Feb 03, 2011 | Skytech 3301 Thermostatic Gas Fireplace &...
Dec 27, 2010 | Heating & Cooling
Dec 18, 2010 | Skytech 3301 Thermostatic Gas Fireplace &...
Feb 28, 2009 | Procom SSU320RHN-GB Heater
34 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!