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The air filters on our Magic-Pak units are located in close proximity to the condenser coil. When our unit comes on the thin (1/2") filters are drawn into contact with the coil?

Shouldn't the filter be relocated?? Isn't this a potential health hazard?? We had one instance of mold build-up on the filter this past summer.

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The filter has to be located in a place where it will be effective. No, getting wet is not ideal, possibly a stronger filter, chicken wire, something. You are likely changing the filter before "health hazards" are an issue.

Posted on Dec 24, 2016

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The filter on our Magic-Pak is located right next to the condenser coil and comes into contact with the coil when the unit turns on. Is this a potential mold issue??


Everything about air conditioning is a potential mold issue. So yes, it is, but, that is where the filter is supposed to go. That is actually the evaporator coil that is being filtered, but, your filter should not be getting wet and if it is it's likely drying out before it becomes a problem. Monitor the filter, just be creative if need be to keep the filter off the coil, possibly spray coil with some gentle detergent and rinse with water to clean it and make the water run down it a little easier. Good Luck!

Jun 05, 2017 | Filter Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Th5320u101 thermostat is flashing cool on and the


1) If the OUTDOOR A/C Condensing Unit is running BUT the indoor AIR HANDLER is NOT running, the problem could be as easy as changing the RUN CAPACITOR which is usually located within very close proximity of your indoor air handler motor. Ensure the ELECTRICAL DISCONNECT SWITCH is "OFF" and change the oval run capacitor (usually a 5 microfarad capacitor). This SHOULD fix your problem.

2) If the OUTDOOR A/C Condensing Unit is NOT running BUT the indoor AIR HANDLER is running, the problem could be as easy as the outdoor unit is not receiving the required 220 Volts AC. Turn the circuit breaker for the A/C Unit OFF and then turn it back ON. Ensure the circuit breaker SNAPS when you turn it to the ON position.

3) If the previous two steps to not apply or do not work, go to the paperwork supplied with the Thermostat. Almost every manufacturer provided a TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE within their literature. Follow those steps. If their TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE does NOT fix your problem, they should have a TOLL-FREE TELEPHONE NUMBER provided to contact their TECHNICAL EXPERTS with your problem(s). Call them and ask them what could be causing the problem.

Aug 31, 2014 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

2 years old unit would not extract moisture from the air. Had another unit on which was working ok. How could I fix this problem?


There are 5 basic, but solvable reason for what you described. Please pay particular attention to numbers 1 & 2. However, running to dehumidifiers in the same proximity may be the problem. ON is doing the lion's share of humidity extraction, leaving little or nothing for the other to extract.

1. The humidity extraction level is set to HIGH. Lower it to 32-35%.

2. Air intake filter is dirty or clogged. Turn unit OFF, & Unplug the
Unit, before removing to inspect & clean it, if necessary. If washed,
allow filter to completely dry before reinstalling. DO NOT operate
the unit without the filter.

3. Obstructed air flow. Maintain a minimum of 12 to 18" of clear air
space around the entire unit.

4. Cooling coils are dirty and need to be cleaned. Use warm water & dish washing liquid to
clean the coils. Rinse and wipe dry. Apply a light coating of WD40 to the coils.

5. Ambient air temperature at floor level is between 40 - 60 degrees.
dehumidifiers do not work well between those temperatures
(Unless, you have a Low Temp Unit). This applies mainly to
where the air temperature at floor level is colder than at shoulder
level
in basement applications. Raising the unit up off the floor,
onto a sturdy table, counter top, etc, that can handle the weight
of the unit, plus a full tank of water, will usually resolve this
problem.

If none of the above solves the problem, it may be a case of the compressor needs to be recharged with refrigerant gas or that the humidity condenser sensor has failed. These things usually occur in units that are 5 years old or older. It's rare in a unit younger than that. But, it can happen.

Hope this helps you to troubleshoot & solve the problem. Thanks for choosing FixYa.

Aug 02, 2011 | Haier Dehumidifiers

1 Answer

Hi, our fan works but no water is drawn out of the air. The thermostat shows the right temperature but the needle for humidity is way beyond the blue zone. We loved it when it was working. I just cleaned...


There are 5 basic, yet solvable reason for what you described. Please pay particular attention to number 1.

1. The humidity extraction level is set to HIGH. Lower it to 32-35%.

2. Air intake filter is dirty or clogged. Turn unit OFF, & Unplug the
Unit, before removing to inspect & clean it, if necessary. If washed,
allow filter to completely dry before reinstalling. DO NOT operate
the unit without the filter.

3. Obstructed air flow. Maintain a minimum of 12 to 18" of clear air
space around the entire unit.

4. Cooling coils are dirty and need to be cleaned. Use warm water & dish washing liquid to
clean the coils. Rinse and wipe dry. Apply a light coating of WD40 to the coils.

5. Ambient air temperature at floor level is between 40 - 60 degrees.
dehumidifiers do not work well between those temperatures
(Unless, you have a Low Temp Unit). This applies mainly to
where the air temperature at floor level is colder than at shoulder
level
in basement applications. Raising the unit up off the floor,
onto a sturdy table, counter top, etc, that can handle the weight
of the unit, plus a full tank of water, will usually resolve this
problem.

If none of the above solves the problem, it may be a case of the compressor needs to be recharged with refrigerant gas or that the humidity condenser sensor has failed. These things usually occur in units that are 5 years old or older. It's rare in a unit younger than that. But, it can happen.

Hope this helps you to troubleshoot & solve the problem.

Jul 06, 2011 | Haier AHD50 Dehumidifier

1 Answer

MY GE ROOM AIR CONDITIONER AGH08AJG1 SWITCH BETWEEN COOL AND FAN EVERY 5 MINUTES APROXIMATELY NEVER SATYS COOLING UNTIL THE DESIRED TEMPERATURE IS REACHED


Check and clean the filter if found to be dirty. It is usually behind a decorative panel below the cold air output grates (when the cold air is on the top front).

steve_con_75.jpg
The filter is behind the large, rectangular, slotted front panel. The evaporator coil is behind the filter. The fan behind the evaporator pulls the room air through the filter and evaporator coil where it is cooled and dehumidified. It is then discharged through the grates on the top of the front.

Direct the airflow from the unit up and away or left / right to prevent the cool air from being drawn in the front of the unit (this is where the thermostat sensor is located). Use the highest fan speed to help force the air away from the intake, too. Inspect the condenser and evaporator coils (condenser is outside and evaporator is directly behind the filter. Clean if dirty or icing over. Be sure to install a filter if none was present. There are products made specifically for cleaning between the fins of the condenser and evaporator coils. Use them only as directed.

steve_con_78.jpg
steve_con_76.jpg

If these suggestions do not work, you may have a problem with the thermostat, refrigerant level, condenser or condenser fan.

Good luck!

Jun 22, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I have a GE BTB736A100A2. Does the dinosaur have an air filter? If so, then where is it? Thanks.


Hi, if this is a package unit, both heat and air all in one, the filter normally is put in a return vent in the ceiling indoors. If you have a split system, outdoor condenser and indoor blower unit, it may be the same, in your ceiling or on a lower wall near the furnace. It may also be inside of the indoor unit either above or below the blower fan. Depending on the sq. footage, you may have up to 2 or 3 return air filters. If you have looked through out the home, and you don't see any grill, it would have to go in the indoor unit if this is a split. The filter is always located on the return side of the unit, the side that draws air back over the indoor coil. If you can find nothing, you may need to buy some filter media at a hardware store, and try and cut a piece to fit where the air flow is being drawn back into the blower compartment, not the supply air coming in, but going back out where the indoor coil is located to catch all of the dust. Just take your time and look for any register that you can feel air being sucked into, and this is where you can put a filter. If you do find the grill and old filter, it will have the size and a arrow on it and it will go in with the arrow going in the direction of flow, you can feel it. I hope this has given you some direction and help.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
A/C, & Heating Contractor

May 31, 2011 | GE Zoneline AZ58H12DAD Air Conditioner

2 Answers

Im not getting enough cold air in my house to keep it cool during the day my air runs 24/7 but it remains hot the only time it cools down is at night


Hi, I will give you some things you can do as far as some service on this unit. What happens, is when the ambient temperature rises, so does the internal freon pressures in the system which in turn, causes the unit to work much harder and at a 95f degree ambient temperature, most all residential units loose up to 45 to 50% of there efficiency!! This is a fact. Then you walk into a shopping center and its over 100 plus outside and a nice 72degrees inside, so you start wondering why my unit is not that cool. Well, being a A/C, Heating, & Refrigeration Contractor for 33 years, I know what goes on. Most all home units as I say are made to work good up to about 95 degrees ambient. This is for a 2 to 5 ton unit. 1 ton of cooling is 12,000 btu's, while on the roof of these shopping centers and strip malls they have 15, 25, 75, and even higher tonnage units!! So back to yours, I just wanted you to learn a little about the size and tonnage of a unit. You can do this first. It's showing you have a complete package unit, all in one not a split. I don't know when the last time you had it serviced but, take your garden hose, kill the power to the unit first. Go to the unit and the wrap around coil give it a good washing out. They make a coil cleaner but you have to be a contractor to buy it. Water will be fine. This should be done once a year in the Spring. Careful not to bend the aluminum fins flat on this coil, but do clean it very well. Dirt is drawn in by the condenser fan motor on top. Start washing from the fan area out first, and go around the outside and wash in. Do this until you see no more dirt, as this is very important. This keeps the high head pressures down to normal in your system, and if its dirty you can lower this high side pressure up to 100 p.s.i. The unit is made for outdoors, so don't worry about getting it wet. Try not to spray water on the main electrical box of course. Keep your filter cleaned or changed as this is also very important. Here is a rule of thumb I will tell you about air conditioning temperature you will know. If you can, pick you up a dial or digital type pocket thermometer at a hardware store, and take these readings at the supply air vents,1 or 2 of them and record it, and at the return air which is where the air returns back through your air filter. This is called your temperature split, or TD (temperature difference). If your unit is running properly as far as freon charge and so on, it should be between 18f to 25f degree difference!! Any higher or lower indicates a problem, low on freon, compressor valves are weak, plugged evaporator coil or dirty filter, many things, dirty condenser coil. Check this before you wash out your coil and let it run and dry out first, and recheck to see what you have. Your unit runs 24/7 trying to capture the load and can't keep up. May be do to age, or just needs some TLCare. So again, the TD check, lets say your supply air coming in is 58*F. Your return should be close to 76*F to 83*f, a 18 to 25*F degree difference. 18*F to 20*F would be awesome, but this is the rule of thumb we use. If it's 105* outside, you will be lucky to have a indoor temperature of 80*F!! A 25* difference. If after recording all of your temperatures and noting them, cleaning the condenser coil and making sure the filter is clean, after the unit runs for 1/2 an hour, recheck the sa&r/a and see what you have. If the coil was very dirty, this may have solved your problem. If after all of this, you may need to have your freon level checked, lets hope not. I have a feeling that it is in need of a good service. Please keep me posted on this, and I am sorry for such a long answer, but I just wanted to share some things with you to remember. Please get back to me to let me know the out come and please rate me kindly as I know you will.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
A/C, Heating, & Refrigeration Contractor

Jul 29, 2010 | Intertherm P3RA-048K Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Do I need to clean coils in haier hwro6xc7 air conditioner


You always need to keep both coils clean on your AC.

The evaporator coil (where room air is drawn in and through a filter) - is easy to keep clean - 'just keep the filter changed on a regular basis and you will probably never need to actually clean the evaporator coil. Occasionaly you might need to brush the coil with a brush or something - but this is not a big concern.

The condenser coil (where hot air blows from) is even 'easier,' for you don't have to mess with a filter, just keep the coil clean. You can occasionally pull the unit (when needed) and wash this coil with a water hose. In reality this coil will not get very dirty very fast - although it will (over time) acquire some dirt/dust, but as I say - it is pretty easy to keep clean. Note: Condensing units (split systems) that sit in a yard will get much dirtier much faster than window/thru the wall units such as yours, but you still have to keep a eye on the coil.

A good rule of thumb - is to change the filter (in front of the evaporator coil) - monthly.

As for the condenser coil (where hot air blows from) you can easy see it and just need to keep it clean, with no set (usually) time to do so.

good luck!

May 02, 2010 | Haier HWR06XC5 Wall/Window Air Conditioner

2 Answers

Ge mini fridge seems to be overheating


the unit should have heat coming off the condenser coils on the back. some of the units have a little fan motor to help cool the condenser. make sure there is plenty of space for air flow around the unit, as this is crucial to normal operation.

Aug 25, 2009 | Sanyo SR-4911M Compact Refrigerator

2 Answers

Can i add more refriger to my air conditioner its cold when it starts but not cold enought


Adding more coolant to a frig. requires special equipment, training and technically a special license. You might say that industry is tightly wrapped.

The cost of doing the work yourself would be more than the cost of a new a/c.

Jun 10, 2009 | Goldstar GR131CN Compact Refrigerator

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