Question about Frigidaire Kitchen Ranges
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: baking element
oh bleep, right? well, if you're lucky this will get you going again. 1. disconnect power to range. 2. remove back metal cover just above range power cord (usually 5 quarter inch hex screws) 3. look for burnt off wire leading to/from bake element. If yes, 4. strip ends of broken wire and splice with ceramic wire nut if no 4. bad news. replace ERC (electronic range control) you fried something on the board. It's got the clock display and all the electronics behind it.
Posted on Aug 29, 2008
Hello all with this oven not working problem!!! I had this happen and I found exactly what causes this to fail. The circuits operate in the following manner... The oven is controlled by a double pole single throw heavy relay (wired as a single pole single throw or simple off/on relay) that supplies power to 2 other relays.. The oven relay is a double pole double throw relay (6 contacts 12 volt coil, ) it is normally open circuit, that is when the main relay turns on the power goes to the oven relay but no further. The other sie of the oven relay is wired to a second relay connected to the broil element that is normally open circuit with the other side of the DPDT relay going to Leg 2 120 volts. So in normal off mode the broiler is connected to the one side of the relay, common is connected to Leg 2 and the other side of the relay is connected to the other side of the oven relay.
SO when you call for the Bake Oven element, the power goes through the main relay to the oven relay, the oven relay clicks and now connects the oven relay to the set of contacts on the broiler relay that is connected to Leg 2- now the oven turns on. When you ask for broil the oven relay turns off and the broiler relay tirns on connecting the broiler to leg 2 (bypassing the oven relay.
I know its long winded but basically to operate the oven the power goes through 3 relays where the broiler only uses 2 of the relays (not the oven relay) Kinda dumb way to do it I suppose BUT the idea is to never have a situation where the oven and broiler can be on at the same time.
Heres what happened with my oven.. the broiler relay failed (broke internally) and the common contact shorted across both of the other terminals momentarily turning on BOTH elements, the sudden inrush of current literally exploded the output contact on the main relay and vaporizing the lead, trace and solder joint.
It was a mess... badly burned.. I found a new relay (omron) to replace the main relay.. but the other 2 were Omrons that I could not find replacements for (12 volt coils is the issue) So I did find some potter brumfield relays that were rated 10 amps per pole so I wired these externally from the timer board (ran wires to them) (doubled up so each relay was using both sides in parallel so it can handle 20 amps) The elements only use about 8 amps each anyways this worked great and since the new relays are on spade terminals with quick disconnects, are easy to swap out of they fry again (doubtful) Its a forgone conclusion these timers are ready to fry at any time and I can almost guarantee the WILL blow.. the relays arent very heavy duty at all... I would not buy another of these.. pretty weak control.. expecially these small relays.
Good luck in your repair.. a new timer was 300 my repair was 50 and WILL NOT fail like theirs did.
Posted on Dec 28, 2008
Hi I have a whirlpool gold range mdl GJSP 84902 and had replaced the bottom hidden element after finding out it wasn't getting any heat. So replacement took a little figuring out. it ws easy after a removal of screws and pulling out the whole oven casing out fron the front. Anyhow I still don't get enough heat generate from the bottom element, what other cause are there. checked fuses wiring all is connected HELP ME PLEASE !!!!! thank you Paul
Posted on May 26, 2009
With the oven OFF, check the resistance of the bake element with a ohmmeter on the lowest scale. Rx1. If your reading is infinate, replace the element as most elements will open circuit when they burn out. They don't short out.
Posted on Jul 30, 2009
Please go thru this list of the fault codes for this appliance it will tell lyou what to do for the fault or what part needs to be replaced
MAYTAG FAULT CODES
Maytag Range / Stove / Oven Fault Codes Failure Code Fault Code Description Solution F0 Function key stuck Replace touch pad or if touch pad is part of the clock, replace the clock (ERC). F1 Defective touch pad or clock (ERC) Replace touch pad or clock (ERC). Touch pad is a more common problem. Refer to F1 test at the top of this page for more information. F2 Oven temperature too hot Replace relay board, if present, or oven temperature sensor (RTD). Check sensor harness. F3
F4 Shorted or open oven temperature sensor (RTD) Check sensor harness and harness connection between oven sensor and oven control. Replace oven temperature sensor (RTD) if wiring is ok. F5 Watchdog and hardware conflict Replace clock (ERC). F7 Function key shorted or stuck Replace touch pad or if touch pad is part of the clock, replace the clock (ERC). F8 Analog / Digital problem Replace clock (ERC). F9 Door latch Check door latch components. Find Parts
Posted on Jan 13, 2010
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