Everything i print seems to have a blue tint to it.

look for gruves in rotor, or a blue tint, if so have them turned. was the rotor cleaned when installed, packing oil can cause break to grab, wash rotor with break cleaner sand paper face of pads. Keep in mind wornen tierod end can give the same feeling.

This could be from a few things.

If this is a temperature symptom ( cold and sitting for a while ) when the truck has been sitting over night start the truck, and while watching the vacuum shift motor on the front axle ( picture below ) have someone shift the mode switch from 2WD to 4WD ( either H or L ) and see if the lever on the vacuum motor is slow to move ( or if it is a delay from switch to a fluid move ).

If so, this could be the front differential needs to be serviced.

Item #10 in this picture

Close up


If the vacuum shift motor is a fluid motion, but there is a delay from selecting the mode, to the vacuum motor moving, the contact plates in the transfer case could be the cause of this ( delay in the contact plate closing, signalling the GEM - Generic Electronic Module to engage the 2WD solenoids to change the front axle ).

The other could be the vacuum solenoids not supplying vacuum quickly, this can be checked by checking the vacuum lines at the shift motor. Pink is 2WD and Light Blue is 4WD operation.




Could also be a weak vacuum supply to the solenoids, which would be the vacuum line to the vacuum reservoir behind the battery box ( cracked line / crank in the vacuum reservoir ).

Try the following links:

• Certain colors are missing or no ink prints on the paper
• Tinted printing / Colors are not exact
• How do I print a Self Test / Nozzle Test?
• How do I adjust print colors using the printer driver?

dont think the bracket had anything to do with that,try and start with out bracket in am again,the white smoke maybe coolant entering the combustion chamber as it sits, this may be caused by a leaking intake gasket or a bad head gasket, also oil leaking down the valve guide or getting past the rings would cause this but the white smoke would have a tint of blue,good luck,

Need to do the alignment feature where it refocuses the light beams. Convergance. Look through the set up. Different magnetism and shaking of the set has thrown it off most likely. Auto focus maybe what its called.

Q - My washer keeps moving around n the floor, is there any simple things that I can check ?
A - Yes, there is...The legs on the washer are adjustable, the rear legs are often ( not always ) self adjusting, make sure the legs are not stuck and that they can move freely. But the front legs can screw in and out to move the washer depending on the floor the washer is sitting on. Make sure the washer is as low to the floor as possible. When the legs are screwed out too far the washer becomes wobbly. Often on the metal style legs there are lock nuts that can be tightened to secure the legs so they don't move on you. washers where really meant to sit on a cement floor, if your washer is on a wooden floor look carefully at the strength of the floor. If the floor is moving up and down when the washer is running, the floor may not be strong enough to support the washers weight. Most main floor laundry rooms floors are nailed down, the sub-floor is more secure if the sub-floor has been screwed down. Sometimes extra support may have to be added under the flooring to add some strength

If you have the remote, go to the setup screen and move the picture. Converge has nothing to do with where the picture sits but, where the red, blue & green dots land. All you should see are pure white dots. There should be absolutely NO color ghost anywhere on the screen. If so, you need a bar / dot generator to set the convergence to center the dots.

I had similar problem: everything muted and with brownish tint. Tried everything, finally discovered that I installed wrong cartridge: 6PC instead of 6C. The "photo" cartridges are pretty much the same, make sure you have the right ones: 6C, 6M, and 6Y.

It started working on it's own!!! The dealership doesn't repair this kind of thing-only replace it. They first quoted $1200 to fix (as the whole seat/subframe- i.e. all 3 motors- had to be replaced), then between $550-$600 (as they found out only the front motor had to be replaced). I have taken the seat out several times- tapping the motor, twisting the 2 shafts, wiggling the wires, cursing it..... I finally got it to work, but only on one side (i.e. the seat would twist on its track instead of moving front and backwards "evenly". Then, out of the blue it started working again on it's own. I guess it's time to trade the thing in while it's working. For some reason, having someone sitting in the seat (while you're hitting the switch) seems to help the motor activate. Hope this helps.