Question about Kitchen Ranges
We have replaced the bulb numerous times with bulbs for oven use, but it only lasts a few days, maybe 12 hours of use. The oven is about 16 years old, everything else works fine. This is a recent problem.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Light bulbs burning out
That does sound odd! On one hand, I would suspect that maybe the door is getting slammed and that vibration may be contributing to the failure. But that would be much more likely for an incandescent bulb than a fluorescent type. Which is yours? You may have a bad connection on the socket which is causing some excess heat. Does the blown bulb look funny on the ends or at the connection? Assuming you're using the bulb your manual calls for, and the socket is okay, it may be a problem on the control board. Once you've digested this reply, let me know what you find and we can take it from there.
Posted on Oct 20, 2006
If you have 120VAC on the center contact of the light socket, and a working fan, but the bulb won't light...the most likely cause would be a disconnected neutral wire (white) in the light wiring inside the hood....assuming everything else is wired correctly.
If you're comfortable with further electrical testing...let me know, and I can describe a detailed procedure to check the status of the neutral wire. Otherwise, you may need the assistance of someone familiar with electrical troubleshooting or appliance repair.
Posted on Jan 27, 2008
If you're getting 120V at the lampholders, yet it's not lighting lamps that still work perfectly well in other fittings, two possibilitiesspring to mind.
One is that the cap on the bulbs isn't quite compatible with the fitting. Assuming they're some variant of Edison Screw, make sure that the centre terminal in the lampholder is sticking out far enough to touch the terminal on the bulb. Also check whether the lampholder achieves it's outer connection just with a small tab, rather than with the whole of the threaded ring. If so, make sure that this is going to touch the appropriate part of the bulb.
The other possibility is that you've got a high resistance connection somewhere - not enough of an open circuit to drop the 120 V when feeding the Megohm load presented by a meter, but more than enough to kill the supply when you have a lamp load. Only way to chase this is to use the meter on ohms range to bell out all the wiring between the lampholders and bits of the system which do work properly.
Posted on Apr 05, 2008
Samsung is notorious for having bad color wheels in their DLPs. Well lets just say they are like toasters, they only last a certain amount of time. If the color wheel isn't spinning or is broken, the set will power down almost immediately after you hit the button, you may not even hear the entire fire up jingle. Check the wheel, if you can see the bulb light up for that split second. Actually, check it whether the bulb lights up or not.
Posted on Jun 29, 2009
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