Question about Kitchen Appliances - Others
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The ice maker water fill solenoid may be leaking by and needs to be replaced. If you disconnect the water line from the solenoid and you see it continues to flow water then that valve is not seating properly. Another slight possiblility is the ice maker motor module gear is stuck in the fill position. See the attached link for a diagram. If the geared wheel just happens to get stopped in the "fill" position it will fill with full force water. If there is only a trickle of water then the soleinoid valve is the more likely source of the problem. http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/AA56-20.gif http://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/AA56-16.gif
Posted on Dec 31, 2006
SOURCE: Ice Maker
Sassy, the red led should flash 2x followed by a pause, repeatedly with the door open. If you hold the left side flap down, it should stay on steady. If it does this you know the optics are ok. Sounds like you just hooked it up to water. The ice maker thermostat has to be at least at 17 degrees before it will call for water and then it will have to prime the lines to the ice maker first before filling the mold. The easiest way to reset the icemaker is to unplug the refer for 30 seconds. Other things you want to check are that the ejector blades (blades that push the ice out) are in the 2:00 position. Check to see that the fill tube that fills the mold is not frozen over. I have a feeling that your lines just needed to be primed. Hope this helps you understand this unit a little better...Catriver...post back.
Posted on Apr 05, 2007
SOURCE: Ice maker quit working
good sign its flashing , woth door open depress the left side flap oppiste the blinkin light. does the light then go solid red??? i fso its an indication that the electricl eye is operating ok .
theres a screw 1/4 in. along the right side underneath the icemaker itself, youll need to removeit and the cover its holding down. you can then slide the ice maker assy foward and out of machine,There will be another litle tab along loeft side uder ice maker youll need to depress to ppulll unit out. pry off the white cover from front of the ice maker assy itself and have a look at the main gear 2 in. round, is it broken off, or on its way top breaking( sometimes the tabs that hold it on to the ice maker module itself break preventing operation, if this is the case youll need to repalce the ice maker assy.
Posted on Oct 31, 2008
check the Shutoff Arm:
An arm extends away from the ice maker over the ice cube bin. During each ice making cycle, the arm rises up and then drops back down after the new ice is dumped into the ice cube bin. As ice accumulates in the bin it prevents the arm from dropping back down. When the arm is high enough, the ice maker shuts off and no more ice is made until the ice level in the bin drops.
The ice maker can also be turned off manually by lifting the arm all the way up into a locked position (shown below
The arm is supported at one or both ends. One end extends into the back of the front support (see photo above). If it is not securely in place, it could cause the ice maker to malfunction. Confirm that the arm is securely in place.
For proper operation, confirm that arm is in the lowered position and that nothing is blocking it from normal movement.
To test the shutoff function, lift the arm up into the manual shutoff position. Recheck the unit later to confirm that no ice is being made.
If unit continues making ice even when the shutoff arm is in the up (off) position, refer to the diagnostic table or for a modular ice maker, replace the control module.
check the Shutoff Switch:
Before testing the shutoff switch, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
There are two types of ice makers, those in which all of the parts can be individually replaced and those in which some of the parts are clustered together into a control module. To determine which model you have remove the outer face plate. If there is knob, pull it off first, then pry off the face plate with a small screwdriver.
Modular units have holes in the module's face plate for test probes. If you see several holes, each marked with a letter, it is a modular unit. Component units (like the one shown below) usually have exposed gears and don't have holes for test probes.
Modular units do not use a separate shutoff switch. Instead follow this link to view instructions for checking the shut off arm.
Posted on Jan 30, 2009
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