Whirlpool adp 566 wtx where to connect wires of water inlet solenoid

To me it sounds like low water pressure. Have a look at the filters in your hose connections. If OK, disconnect the hose at the inlet to your machine and check if water flows freely.

Get model from tag and then I may be able to assist you

F7 - Flow-meter failure

Symptom: water inlet valve (WV1) is switched on and the water indicator (WI) is on (level reached).

Could be:
1. Water tap closed during water inlet
2. Water inlet hose blocked
3. Water inlet valve (WV1) defective
4. Flow-meter (FM) sends too few / much pulses (less than 10 imp.in 10 sec.)
Flow-meter counts wrong (or the sump is full in less than 30 sec. Causation: Hose felt down and slipped the disc of the valve. The effect is a displacement of the valve tappet).
5. Aquastop defective
6. Flow-meter defective

Dado

Check your inlet pipe connection to see that it is not loose or leaking, next check the inlet valve solenoid that it is not cracked. If there is nothing wrong with the inlet solenoid the water should not be able to get any further into the machine.

its an an ADP 556 WTX

commercial code is 854255643210

I just got the user manual for it from whirlpool themselves

I've uploaded it,

see http://rapidshare.com/files/410905911/6ADP256.pdf

The cold part of the water inlet/mixing valve assembly (part #8181694) is not working. Disconnect power to the machine then remove the three screws at the back of the top panel securing it to the cabinet. Once the screws are removed, slide the top panel to the back of the machine then lift it off.

Check the valve solenoids using an ohmmeter. Disconnect a wire from each of the solenoids then measure the resistance between the terminals of each solenoid with the ohmmeter set to X100. The resistance of the solenoids must be almost identical at about 800 ohms.

Check the continuity of the solenoid wiring harness to the central control unit. Make sure the connector at the central control unit is properly seated to ensure good connection. The 4-wire valve solenoid connector is the fourth connector from the left (facing the front of the washer) of the central control unit.

Disconnect the solenoid wires from its terminals if the resistances of the solenoids found above are the same and there's a good connection between the solenoids and the central control unit. Cleaning the terminals will help. Reconnect the solenoid wires in place of the other solenoid wires, and then start a new cycle to check if the temperature of the water coming into the washer changes.

Replace the water inlet/mixing valve if one of the following is observed:

1. The resistances of the valve solenoids are not the same; one solenoid is open, and the connection between the solenoids and the central control unit is okay.
2. The water temperature does not change after the hot and cold solenoid wires are interchanged.

Remove the fill hoses then remove the valve assembly mounting screws. Disconnect the valve assembly outlet hose then remove the valve assembly from the cabinet. Connect the outlet hose to the new valve assembly then mount it into position in the cabinet with the mounting screws.

Slide the top panel into position then secure it the three screws to the back of the machine.

Please let us know how this guide helped you or not so that we may know how it worked and how to improve it, if necessary.

Hi. This will usually be the fault of the water inlet valve. The solenoid based valve may have debris building up, thus, causing the valve not to close properly, after usage. Kindly, follow the procedure below to confirm the damage, replace the valve, if needed.

The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink). Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.

The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors

Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush, or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).


Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.

The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source. Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.

The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced. Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).



Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.

replace the control board in the console

sound like you have a valty inlet valve if your model has the valve built into the hose you will have to replace the hose assy.