-serial # CFEF312C01 came with the house; no manual) -fuse is for the outlet on top...I need to confirm the size -coil top Thank you so much!
SOURCE: Kenmore Electric Stove - Gourmet Edition
Thanks for the numbers.
The 628 in the model# tells us it was built by Frigidaire. The date code in the serial number is less clear because it is a different code than their current serial number designations that have been in use since the mid '80's. The style of the stove makes me think late '70's, I would guess '77 or '78 from the first 3 digits of the serial number.
The thermostat should be easy to check. If the broil function in the large oven works, the thermostat should be ok. It is a simple switch that should read closed across the contacts when you turn it to any temp setting when the oven is cool.
The power for the oven will also go through the selector switch which routes the power to different components depending on the setting.
The power also goes through switches in the clock that allow the timed bake and self clean functions to work.
If there is no wiring diagram in the stove, you will probably need one to diagnose the problem if the thermostat checks ok. I would suggest getting one while it is still available in case you need it in the future.
Once you have found out exactly which part you need, you should be able to use the Frigidaire part number from the parts list on the Sears site to track down a replacement part through a local appliance parts dealer. You may have to take the part to them to try to visually match up a replacement. Thermostats and selector switches are usually pretty generic in their operation between manufacturers, the problem lies in finding one that will mount to your control panel properly and that your knob will fit so that you can keep the same uniform look along your control panel.
Please post back with what you find out or if you have any questions.
Thanks/Mike
SOURCE: hotpoint stove fuse confirguration
Remove the old ones ONLY if you know what you are doing, and take them to the parts place with the modl # and serial # found on the tag plate!
SOURCE: I have a Frigidaire gallery
the dryer circuit will be clearly labelled in the house box, there will be two fuses or a single two phase breaker for this circuit.
there are not usually electrical fuses as such IN a dryer, there are thermostats to regulate temperature, and a thermal fuse, that cuts the power totally to the heat element if air temperature rises above its melt point.
the element itself has a limited life span and may fuse/burnout.
to test electrical components.
Unplug dryer
open case, by removing the front,
described elsewhere in any of the 'changing belt' threads
locate the thermal cutouts, on the fan housing or exhaust duct and disconnect one wire to isolate it from the rest of the circuit, test with ohmmmeter, no-continuity replace, continuity reconnect wire
thermal cuttouts look like these ~1inch accross.
locate the heat element and disconnect one wire to isolate it from the rest of the circuit, test with ohmmmeter, no-continuity replace, continuity reconnect wire
while you have the dryer open de-lint the fan and exhaust ducting, most common cause of element or themal fuse failure is air flow restriction
you get a lot of lint out of the fan even when proper cleaning is done, and clean out the ducting right to the exterior walls
this was the rather extreme result of not cleaning the duct (brainiac placed a wire across the terminals of the burnt out thermal fuse)
SOURCE: Replacing range top to flat
That could really be a very costly change over. You will have to replace the top ($400.00) each element ($85 to $130.00) each, and probably some wiring and switch changes. You can prbably get a new one for way less than switching one over. You might be able to find the parts on ebay, etc, its just going to be matching the right parts. Good luck, and let me know how it turns out.
SOURCE: replacing a burner on a frigidaire electric stove
If you are talking about one of the four(4) elemnts on the top, all you need to do is pull it out and slide the new on back in. According to the model you provided, it has just the standard coil surface burners.
Good Luck!!
Hello - I would first suggest confirming that the range is plug to the proper voltage (120/240 Volts 40/50 Amp). Was there anything located behind the range before pushing it back? From what you have described it sounds like the control board will need diagnosing. Contact a professional to move forward accurately.
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