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Just bought a second hand pro runner 5200, it is stuck with walking part is stuck with end closest machine down and part furtherest away where you step on is in upwards position

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Your vehicle should be covered if you purchased extended warranty when you bought the vehicle, if you have Consumer affair in the country that you live in then check with them as a lot of these Insurance Companies will tell you that it is not covered by them so they don't have to pay the money out if they think you will just go away and not hassle them. Consumer affairs will tell you whether your Insurance Company has to pay for the damage or not and will also contact the Insurance company and make them pay the money out to have your car repaired,

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There are TWO places this foot attaches to the machine. It "hooks" onto the left side of the presser foot holder, and there's another part on the right side that should attach up higher (as shown in the instructions). If you forget about that second one, it gets stuck and does exactly what you described.

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Check engine light came on. I pulled code P2004 which comes up as the intake manifold runner being stuck open. Just before the check engine light came on, I noticed that when I start the car, the initial...

Hello, The fast idle on Startup is a normal setting for your motor. This is called the "cold start routine" and it is suppose to help create draft in the induction system and warm other components.

The problem with the runner can be from several things. There are Electric solenoids on some of the motors which may be seen as 2 pods on the Intake manifold. The Solenoids are used to either send Vacuum to the runner mechanism or to move metal rods attached to the "runners".

Sometimes the runners with Vacuum solenoids get stuck in one position. You need to check for Vacuum running through the Solenoid. For the type with metal rods that move, Ford used plastic clips to hold the rod shaft to the runner just beneath the place where the Solenoid mounts. The broken plastic clip can be replaced with a paper clip that you need to shape to fit. Or you can buy a Ford part made of plastic which will fail again.

The runner flaps themselves can be gummed up so bad that the Solenoids described earlier just can not move them. This style would need to have the Intake Manifold removed in order for you to lift out the runner plates and clean them.

I am going to explain what a "Runner" is and this should explain why there are several systems put in Ford vehicles. On some Ford engines, the breathing of the engine requires that the Intake manifold has 2 sets of intake passages. A single Intake design could not give both low-end and top-end Performance. The runner moves from one port to another and this is like having 2 Intake manifolds bolted on top of 1 engine.

When the runners can not move because of a malfuction, thats when you get Error Warnings and poor performance.

You need to identify the engine used in your ZX3 if there were optional engines. I wanted to give you a start on your repair with my Solution. You should be able to look at your motor and see which system you have and now know that a Rod-operated sytem can have broken clips, a Vacuum system can have bad Solenoids and so on. I hope this is very useful to you.

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1 Answer

I have problems with not be able to pick up the thread from the bobbin to start sewing

Make sure the needle is not bent and is installed with the flat side of the needle shaft to the back of the machine.

Thread the machine with the presser foot up, with the thread going into the needle from the front ,

Check the manual to be sure you have the bobbin inserted correctly into the bobbin case and the thread is feeding in the proper direction and through the guides on the bobbin case.

Hold onto the end of the top thread at the needle and hand walk the needle down and back up. This should bring the bobbin thread up. Take both thread ends under the presser foot and to the back of the machine.

Place a folded scrap of fabric under the presser foot, lower the presser foot and hand walk the needle down into the fabric and then use the power pedal to start sewing.

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I perfer using an asistant, start at the wheel that is furtherest from the master cylinder, end with the wheel closest to the master cylinder. have assistant push the brake pedal down and hold it, you open the bleeder screw and watch the fluid coming out, when it slows close the bleeder, then tell assistant to release the brake pedal, then repeat as necessary until all air is removed. keep a check on fluid level in the master cylinder, if it goes empty you will introduce air into the system. hope this helps.

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if the car has been stood for a long unattended period then yes the door rubbers could have stuck the door closed,or the central locking solonoids have have stuck but you did say the knobs go up and down so iam not sure about this one.This is another hands on type thing where i need the car in front of me,but one thing you could try is get a nice big piece of cardboard,climb in back of car and with a nice dolly bird as an assistant to hold the door handle up from outside place cardboaur over trim lay on seat in a compromising position and give a sharp kick with both feet on the end of door furtherest from the hinges.have to be explicit in case your a colonial cousin....if this doesnt work then call a mobile mechanic as this is definatly a hands on type of job.with lots of variables depending on the model of jam jar

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pressure bleed is the best..if not bleed your brakes starting from the furtherest bleeder nipple first then keep moving to the next and so on to you get to the closest.when you bleed keep going till you see clean fluid.keep topping up dont let it run out .if you are not mechaniclly minded have some one do it for you..if not done properly you will end up with no brakes at all.

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