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The thin sprocket looking washer behind the clutch has broken in half but the parts diagrams dont show a washer that has teeth like a sprocket

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That is a rim sprocket that drives chain. If they get worn to much they will break. Very common part. Should be able to get at any good small engine shop.

Posted on Dec 28, 2016

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  • Garden Master
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Take it to a service agent and see what it is used for
they will have the part or will know if the part is needed

Posted on Dec 21, 2016

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Chain does not move on the ms170 stihl chainsaw


I assume you have the correct chain for the bar and that the sprocket on the end of the chain bar goes around. Check the bar for any defects like pinches where the bar has been caught. Check the chain drive cogs for any burs on the edges - often happens if the chain has been run too slack and then come off!

Check the chain drive teeth thickness which should be the same as the chain bar can accept. Check also you have the right pitch chain for the drive teeth on the clutch sprocket. Assuming the chain brake is not on then you should be able to move the chain around the bar when all the slack has been taken out. If the chain and bar checks are all ok then there is a problem with the clutch. With the chain brake off the clutch with the chain drive sprocket on should spin reasonably freely. If not then you need to remove the 'E' shaped circlip in the centre of the clutch drum , remove the washer behind it and slide off the clutch drum. Then remove the roller bearing and be prepared to replace it if it will not run freely. Clean out all the muck in the clutch housing and check for anything obviously broken. If all appears ok then put a few drops of 2 stroke oil on the roller bearing and replace it on the shaft. Clean the clutch drum and replace it on the shaft. Then the washer and 'E' clip and re-fit the bar and chain. Re-fit the cover and tension the chain and try again. If that does not do it then there has to be a problem with the chain bar.

Nov 15, 2013 | Stihl 16" Chainsaw Bar Chain Saw 018 025...

1 Answer

I own a 96 fireblade and when you ride very slow at about 2-3000 revs and shut the throttle you get a lot of slack and a knocking sensation you can feel it threw the foot pegs its also bad at 6-8000 revs...


Ok, clutch slip,would not be noticable when you back off the throttle so mutch, you would mainly notice slip when accelarating as the engine speed would increase but not your actual speed, as if you hadn,t let go of the clutch fully
Is the noise noticable through all the gears? Does. The bike jurke when the noise is present?
If it does i would check these items externaly.
The condition of the drive chain, rotate the wheel and check for missing rolers from the chain links, remove front sprocket cover, and observe the sprocket for broken or missing teeth. Also check if the sprocket has exsess play as if the bolt were loose, if so remove and check shaft condition for dammaged splines, next look at the rear sprocket for broken or worn teeth, missalignment and tension, all fixing bolts, next grab the sprocket firmly top and bottom pull to and fro as if you were pulling from the outer and not in a rotation , you are now looking to see if the bearing in the carrier on the rear wheel has failed any exses movment would mean replacing the bearing, this would contribute to vibration, if this is ok press the chain downwards check to se if the engine moves, sometimes engine bolts become loose and vibration would again be evident, check engine subframe for damage cracking etc. Vibration can also derive from front and rear wheel bearings giving a visible vibration in footrests and handlebars in extreme cases, good luck my bet is chain and sprocket, poss carrier bearing, paul

May 01, 2011 | 1999 Honda CBR 900 RR Fireblade

1 Answer

I have a UT10519 and the chain keeps coming off bar. I noticed the inner guide is cut.


If the chain is showing signs of heavy wear, suggest replacing both the bar and the chain. Check the sprocket on the clutch hub for heavy wear on the teeth which will hasten wear on the chain teeth. Check chain oiling by running the saw tip near some cardboard at speed for a moment or two--it should throw off a thin line of oil. Tighten the chain until the lower run of chain just comes up to the bar, but not so tight that you can't turn the chain by hand. Hope this helps!

Jan 27, 2011 | Homelite Gas, 20 In. Bar, 46 CC, Chain...

1 Answer

Chain keeps slipping off saw


Remove the bar and chain. Lay the chain out on a bench or table and examine for sideways bent/broken links, badly damaged cutting teeth, or damaged drive teeth. Inspect the bar chain-groove all the way around for any damage. Make sure the tip sprocket turns freely and is not damaged. Check the sprocket on the clutch drum for hooked teeth or other damage. Clean the small oil passages that feed oil out to the chain groove in the drive end of the bar. Start the engine and check the engine side port where the bar fits to--it should ooze out oil from the small port there. If everything checks ok, re-assemble the bar and chain leaving the cover fasteners finger tight. Adjust the chain until it pulls up to the bar, but not so tight that you can't turn turn it by hand. Tighten the bar fasteners and re-check the chain tension. Start the engine and hold the bar tip near some cardboard--it should throw off a thin line of oil after several moments of running at speed. Hope this helps!

Jul 17, 2010 | Craftsman sears 18" Chain Saw Chain (...

1 Answer

CHAIN CAME OFF


Remove the cover at the drive end and back off the chain adjustment several turns. Make sure the chain brake is released. Check the condition of the sprocket on the outer clutch drum looking for tooth damage--also check the outer clutch drum bearing for looseness. Lay the chain out on a table or board--look for lateral bending, broken or bent links/teeth, or other obvious damage. If ok, clean the bar oil passages including the two small holes that feed oil out to the chain groove from the larger holes on each side. Also, clean the entire chain groove and lube the end sprocket--check to see that it turns freely. If all ok, fit the bar in place, then thread the chain over the bar and sprockets. Pull the bar outwards and fit the cover back over the bar. Turn the clamp nuts finger tight, then adjust the chain tension until the chain pulls up to the lower edge of the bar so that it doesn't droop, but not so tight that you can't move the chain by hand. Make sure the teeth cut toward you on the bottom run and that the teeth are properly sharpened. Tighten the clamp nuts fully and recheck tension. If ok, start the engine and run the bar tip near a piece of cardboard for a few moments--it should throw off a thin line of oil onto the cardboard. When properly sharpened, the chain will readily cut quickly without undue effort and will make straight cuts. Forcing the cut will overheat the chain and cause it to come loose. Hope this helps!

May 22, 2010 | Makita DCS51018 18" 45cc Chain Saw 2 Cycle

1 Answer

The motor is running while the chain doesn't advance. somebody told me there some plastic sprocket ?? or the other that is worn. I went to my supplier; Building Depot Curacao: they promised they can repair...


Remove the bar and chain from the saw. Behind the clutch is the sprocket mounted to the outer component of the clutch. It should be made of steel with relatively unworn teeth. Have someone hold the outer ring of the clutch and try to force the chain past the teeth of the sprocket--it should not be possible with tightly held chain. Use good gloves when trying this one. If sprocket appears to be ok, get some carburetor cleaner and wash out the interior parts in the clutch--it may be highly oiled--not good for necessary friction.Make sure chain is properly adjusted and saw is oiling it properly--a light oil track aroud the periphery of the bar is good.

Jun 27, 2009 | Garden

1 Answer

Missing part(s) on clutch but not sure the actual part number


OK you can go to Poulanpro.com and need your exact model number or I just went by the 42CC and took a look at a breakdown that you can download It is a very good schematic and I think it will help you. Let me know if I can help any further.

Feb 22, 2009 | Poulan Pro 42CC 2 Cycle Chainsaw, 18"

1 Answer

Inspect Your Motorcycle's Sprockets


Front and rear sprocket teeth are good indicators of maladjusted chains; inspect the teeth to make sure they are meshing well with the chain. If the sides of the teeth are worn, chance are they haven't been seating well with the chain (which probably shows corresponding wear.) Wave-shaped teeth wear is another irregularity that might suggest that you need new sprockets.

Nov 10, 2008 | 1998 Honda SLR 650

1 Answer

Inspect Your Motorcycle's Sprockets


Front and rear sprocket teeth are good indicators of maladjusted chains; inspect the teeth to make sure they are meshing well with the chain. If the sides of the teeth are worn, chance are they haven't been seating well with the chain (which probably shows corresponding wear.) Wave-shaped teeth wear is another irregularity that might suggest that you need new sprockets.

Nov 10, 2008 | 2000 kawasaki VN 2000

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