I have the same problem, and took the unit apart. Tested the fusible link and there's no continuity. I don't see any identifying marks for the temperature ratings of the fusible link and I'm not familiar with fusible links. It has a red plastic tip to it. Does this indicate temperature rating? I also can't find any sites that indicate or sell the part.
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Re: Light turns on, but no heating.
Pull apart again. you will see leads insulated with cloth-like insulation. feel for a bulge or two - usually a fuse is hidden in one of those insulations. Find it test it for continuity. If flown, cut it out, replace or just short out that connection.
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Your oven is obviously getting power if the light is on. If your heating elements are not getting hot you may have had a switch go bad, a wire come off it's terminal, or possibly a fuse that blew if your unit has one. There is really no way to know exactly where the problem is without taking the unit apart and visually inspecting it. If all the connections and switches look good, some electrical diagnosing is needed to see where the problem is. If you find any wires or switches that have any melted or burned plastic, you will need to repair the connection or replace the switch. If there is no obvious problem, you should have it looked at by a technician who can properly diagnose the unit.
Ticking sound when unplugged? It sounds like a mechanical timer. Check the timer / control setting is actually on a cooking cycle. The unit may be set on delayed start? If there is no power to the unit, there may be a fuse inside it. You may have to take the back / side off to see.
May not be too hard to fix. On the thermostat, you will see 5 wires coming from it. black and white on top (leave those alone), and on the bottom of the switch, there are red white and blue wires. The white wire with the burnt connector(from use) is the problem. I had that switch apart, seen how it works. The 3 wires at the bottom (red, white, blue) is like a spst center off switch with white being the common center wire. Red is for oven, and blue is for toaster. After I rebuilt the switch the first time, and it happened again, I just bypassed switch by connecting that burnt bottom white connector, to the red timer wire connector. Oven will work, toaster will not. The oven turns off when timer runs out. Can also unplug or turn down thermostat all the way so it does not use much power when done using till timer runs out. If you have a spst(center off) switch, you can mount that too to the side panel if you find one rated for it. Just make sure the bottom white wire is used as the common center wire. B&D will not sell that switch that is broken. I tried that before I took that switch apart. Glad I did take it apart as I am sure their new switch would have failed quickly as well.
We've got the same problem and I just took ours apart.
Bad news: I'm pretty sure it's the circuit board. It's not the timer knob, and I'm almost positive it's not the upper selector knob. Most of the components on the circuit board are only used for the "bake" mode to regulate temperature. The board is marked, "128301 Timer PCB". I looked into whether one can buy a replacement board from Kitchenaid, but it's not on their parts list. If I had to guess, I'd say it's the relay on the board, but it's only a guess. Shoddy components, plus it gets hot in there and "bakes" the board. The little fan in the side isn't part of the "convection." It's for cooling off the circuit board. Don't laugh.
Even worse, next to the thermostat on ours, there's a little rubber insulator that's burnt to a crisp. The connection under this insulator was also loose. It hasn't affected functionality, but it doesn't instill confidence in the design. Kind of scary. Unplug this unit when not in use!
Only a one year warranty. I think we now have an expensive toaster.
If the top element is working, then it is either the element, the wiring harness , or the control board.
Since both elements are controlled through the same temperature probe, then the temp. probe should be OK.
The heating element must be removed and tested using a multimeter.
The part is tested disconnecting wiring from element contacts, setting a multimeter to read impedance at Rx1, and reading Ohms on element contact. If the circuit is open (no continuity and infinite Ohms value), then the element has blown and must be replaced.
If the element has continuity, test the wiring harness, then replace wiring harness or control board.
All the test must be done by a trained repairer, strictly observing all health and safety rules.
I investigated further (took it apart again to satisfy my curiosity) and it appears that one of the top heating elements (the front one) is open (burnt out). I cannot see an easy way to replace it (contacts are spot welded) and I can't find a place to buy the element. If I could it probably won't be worth it since a new oven costs $25 at Target (B&D TR0490W). Too bad since the oven looks like new. I assume the upper elements burn out more frequently because heat rises from the lower elements and adds extra heat at the top.