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I noticed that my electrical panel has no main disconnect. I was told it was direct connected , there is no sub panel or anything at the meter. I live in pa, is this legal ?

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There was a time when a main disconnect was not required.

Posted on Dec 20, 2016

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The wide blade is neutral (typically silver) the narrower one is Phase (copper colored), Green is earth, connected to chassis. If that is correct check for a broken neutral wire.

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A disconnect is simply as it's called (a disconnect) it is connected directly to the power source and all circuits following depend on the disconnect to provide the connection to the main source. Like a main water line to a home ,there is always a main water value from the city located at your property which must be open to allow water to your home. The electrical disconnect works the same way with electricity from the provider to your home .

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DO NOT DO THIS! If I understand you correctly you want to have three ways to have 110 power in your motor home--- (1)Vehicle 12V to inverter to main panel. (2)Generator to main panel. (3)plug the main panel into 110V. If any two of these are connected at the same time and they are both live, somethings going to blow. That's because with AC, the two sources must be synchronized in their cycles very precisely. The utility company connects their power plants together on the grid only with the aid of precise controls. But the really serious problem is the same reason they invented transfers switches for home generators -- if you were connected to (3) and the power went out, and you connected (1) or (2) without disconnecting the dead (3), you will backfeed power to the line outside and you just might kill the lineman who is trying to fix the power outage.

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I've changed out my central heat and air ,with a larger unit , after 5 weeks working fine ,now if my air conditioner ,hot water tank and stove is on along with a few minor appliances my main breaker trips...


No,you can not wire directly to a meter. All wiring must come through the circuit panel or sub panel.
150 amps is sufficient to run what you describe. You may have a weak main breaker or loose wiring to these appliances. Place a amp meter on a incoming supply wire at the main, while you monitor amp draw have someone go around the house and turn on all these appliances. If it trips at less than 140 amps you have a bad main.
I suspect you will find a bad neutral wire on one of these appliances.

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If this is the Service Disconnect Switch or Main Switch for the panel, this job should probably left for an electrician to perform, as power should be shut off at the meter socket or at the roadside first. If this is not done, the work will be "hot".

Unlike most circuit breakers in electrical panels, Service Disconnect Switches and Main Switches have the power brought to the panel by entering terminal screws. Shutting the Main or Service Disconnect breaker off prevents the flow of current *into* the panel and other circuit breakers. The large wires that are connected to the terminal screws are LIVE, and will remain so until shut off *upstream*.

Working in a panel with two large diameter cables that do not move easily is a hazard and should not be done unless you are very familiar with this work - and of course, have shut the power off.

Please, reconsider doing this work yourself.

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Sounds like you have a bad capacitor for your squirrel cage fan , now as for the a/c unit sounds like you have a direct short in compressor to ground or leg to leg , check all wiring to make sure that it is not grounding out or melted together.

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I have a home built in the 50's. circuit breakers are pushmatic. 7 breakers on a side. The locking bar down the center will not allow me to replace 2 single pole breakers with double pole. It's for an...


You need to put in what we call a sub box. This should be done by a licensed electrician, but if you really want to do it yourself you will need a distribution box some wire and it has to be connected directly to your main lags from the meter box, this box will have a main breaker built into it and spaces for additional breakers, depending on your existing wiring the electrician might chose to wire the additional box directly to your meter base and not your existing box. Either way you really should seek local professional help on this project, just for your safety and to satisfy your home-owners insurance.

Have a great day..
Tim

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1 Answer

When i turn on the cd player the sound from the components vuts off but the sound coming through the subwoofer stays on??


The Sub gets it's output from the pre-amp circuit, whereas the components get their output from the main amp circuit in the unit.

Sounds like it could be a short in the speaker wiring or a blown speaker. Check all wiring to the speakers.

Check all speaker wires from the unit to the speakers.

First check that each pair of speaker terminals at the speaker end is not touching. Or, a wire fell of 1 terminal to rest on another.

Best way to check if it's a blown speaker or a wiring short, is to disconnect all speaker connections ( at the speaker end ) making sure the disconnected wires don't touch each other or any metal in the car. press the reset on the unit and power up. If the unit powers up ok, then its a blown speaker.

Otherwise it's a short in the wiring.

If it's a blown speaker, you can connect 1 speaker at a time and the blown 1 will send the unit into protect mode again.

If it's the wiring, disconnect the unit from the wiring and use and ohm meter to check each pair of cables. A reading suggests a short.

If you don't have an ohm meter a battery and bulb will do. This method usually works on a short.

If you have no joy with either method, take each speaker wire in turn and check with a source of earth (anything metal connected directly to the body of the car, cigar lighter main body when pulled slightly out is good)


Regards

Philip

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