Question about Kelvinator Refrigerators
We have a Kelvinator N360 fridge/freezer which didn't seem to be getting cold enough. A guy came and looked at it and found that the fan wasn't working in the frozen section - wasn't blowing any air around. He fixed that. Now the problem seems to be that it is TOO cold in the refrigerator part. We have noticed that there are two dials - one for adjusting freezer temp, and one for adjusting fridge temp. The fridge temp dial seems kind of loose/floppy/spongy and can be twisted right around. I'm assuming this should attenuate the cold air coming from the freezer section (by opening or closing a vent?) but we're not sure it's working properly.
Posted by Anonymous on
Some can be changed or adjusted manually and some are controlled by a electronic control board called an adc ADAPTIVE defrost control board
to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong a
Some fridges are now using ADC boards.
Designers are using microprocessors (on solid state circuit boards) to adapt defrost intervals and durations to compensate for differences and changes in operating conditions. Such techniques are calledAdaptive Defrost Control, commonly abbreviated as ADC. Theu are normally found in same locations as the timer would be but look somewhat different in appearance. It is more difficult to test these units without the appliance schematic.
Some ADC / control boards control other functions of the refrigerator, too, such as icemaking and electrical air damper door opening and closing.The defrost frequency may also be shortened under certain circumstances.
AT TIMES YOU MAY HEAR THE COMPRESSOR CLICK OFF AND ON OVER AND OVER. Signs of a bad start relay or capacitor. Check with an OHMS meter for continuity (ohms) and voltage, capacitor can be checked for Microfares. ( if in series with the windings)
If you hear your compressor "short-cycling" (starting and stopping at short intervals) try jumping across the two leads of the cold control thermostat ( in the fridge compartment) with an alligator jumper. You can also check both for live voltage current and ohms- If there is a greenthirdlead, ignore it for this test; it is the ground wire. If the fridge starts running constantly, the cold control is bad. Replace it.
To check ur compressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, sometimes located next to compressor in a casing.
You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur start winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground or COM
Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms
Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms, u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity
God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.
TO REPLACE RELAY AND CAPACITOR WITH A HARDSTART KIT YOU CAN USE
A 3 in 1 start kit for compressors sizes 1/4 through 1/3 HP. And a 5 in 1 for higher H.P. (BE SURE TO MATCH WITH UR COMPRESSOR MODEL NUMBER AND TYPE) The kit includes relay, capacitor, and overload device, pre-wired. The kit will replace all 3 electrical components on capillary refrigeration systems. For newer systems with a run capacitor use proper kit. For smaller horsepower compressors useTJ90RCO810.
The wire set up is as follows the red wire goes to the right side of compressor prong, the white wire to the left side prong, the black wire to the center prong, and the 2 other black wires go to the power and the ground connection
Refrigeration System Basics Chapter 1
Posted on Jan 07, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The turn dial that controls your fridge temp also controls the freezer temp. The freezer air is directly forced into the freezer compartment and then sent to the reigerator. Adjust the dial for the fridge not to be so cold and it will adjust the feezer also. Allow about 24 hours for any noticeable change.
Posted on Apr 19, 2008
SOURCE: refrigerator not cold enough
Hi Tin Man!
You may have identified the problem with the frosted over freezer coils... are they to the point of being ice encased? In addition to cooling the freezer, this is also the primary source for the refriferator cold air... I would try defrosting the unit again, with it disconnected from power, try and go longer this time, with the doors open.
When you power back up, reset both temp settings to mid-range (5) and let it run at least 8-12 hours to stabilize... try to avoid opening the doors too much while it cools down, and see how it does.
If it still doesn't cool down sufficiently, you may have damaged air control port flaps, not allowing the cold air introduction into the fridge compartment.
This could also be a control/sensor issue, i.e.: the setting knob is malfunctioning, or the temp sensor might be bad, as could the electronic controller.... in other words the info source and control system that directs how the flaps are opened and closed might be at fault.
Refrigerators have become much more sophisticated since the advent of the microchip, but the basics still apply... just try and use the process of elimination to isolate the problem.
Hope this helps and good luck!
Posted on Jun 15, 2008
This could be the actuator is not closing the door that controls how much cold air from the freezer is ciculated into the fresh food section. It could be something broken or there could be ice biuldup on the door itself, not allowing the door to open or close.
Posted on Nov 12, 2008
Probably not. Newer (and I mean under 15 years old or so) refrigerators may run more % of the time than older units, but are using far less energy while running, so total energy consumption is actually less. The newest energy star models often use less electricity than a single incandescent light bulb uses if left on 24/7. If your run times are noticeably longer just recently, and there have been no other significant changes to account for it (like more and / or longer door openings or a warmer ambient temp., etc.) then you may have caught a defrost problem or bad door gasket problem early. The warm temp on the outer case near the freezer is to prevent condensation from forming in those areas, and is normal. (as a matter of fact, older refrigs often used low wattage electric heaters for that task, almost all newer units use waste heat from the cooling system to accomplish that task) Please don't bother rating this solution, as anything but a Fix-Ya lowers my overall score. Thanks.
Posted on Feb 16, 2009
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