Question about LG DLE2240W Dryer

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Lg dle2240w no power. thermal fuse shows not blown.

LG dle2240w has been running for a while, then just stopped. Checked thermal fuse nears back panel, but it's fine, power at the machine (panel where plug wires connect to machine) show 'white-red' shows 120v, and 'black-red' shows 120v. I checked for solid connection to the front panel, so connection should be fine there. I'm out of ideas. Any help? Thanks!

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi there,
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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dididsaythat
  • 291 Answers

SOURCE: no power

THese diagrams may help some

http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php

Dryer NO Power
You really need a volt / ohm meter to check for Continuity & Volts
Its well worth the investment... $15.00 bucks give or take a few
I would check to see if you have 220v to back of dryer where the cord mounts to dryer,
If dryer is getting only 1 leg 110 volts instead of the 220 will it not heat.
Check themostates & heater for Continuity... Most models, Now have a..
Hi-limit fuse that need to be checked for Continuity and replaced if bad
if you dont have a ohm meter you can hook the wires together
with a small piece of wire and by pass the themostates and hi limit fuse to see if thats the problem or not

Posted on Nov 04, 2007

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Illeagle
  • 525 Answers

SOURCE: LG Front loader Electric Dryer want heat but will run and spin

If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Power from the house
Heating element
Thermal fuse
Wiring
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.


This link will show teardown illustrations: Parts and more help available on other pages of the website.
http://www.repairclinic.com/0100_16.asp


Hope this helps.
Illeagle

Posted on Aug 27, 2008

dniro592006
  • 121 Answers

SOURCE: LG DLE7177 Thermal fuse

Thermo Fuse is normally followed by the power source or on
the circuit board, Follow power source and you will find fuse.

Posted on Apr 02, 2009

  • 423 Answers

SOURCE: LG LDS5811BB Dishwasher

Some of the LG LDS5811 had problems with the wiring harness in the door panel. This is nothing to mess with unless you have disconnected the DW from power.
You can open the door panel by removing the screws around the inside edge of the DW. Or, better yet, firmly but politely contact LG service and tell them you are aware of LDS5811 dishwashers having these symptoms being caused by _melting_ wires in inside the door panel. This is true and even if the DW is out of warranty, LG should fix this problem at no cost to you.
Good Luck!

Posted on Apr 10, 2009

MNTECH
  • 1543 Answers

SOURCE: Can't get back panel off gas LG.

The back panel does not come off. If you have a rear control model as pictured in your post: Open the door and remove the two phillips head screws at the 5 and 7 O'Clock position just in front of the lint tilter. Next, use a putty knife to push in on the clips holding the top panel down. They are located in the seam where the front panel meets the top panel, near the left and right edges. Swing the top panel up to gain acess to the two phillip head screws holding the front panel on at the very top of the front panel. Disconect the the door switch, drum light, and then the sensor plug near the lint filter. This allows you to fully remove the front panel. The thermal reset is located on the left side of the burner housing, near the front. It is about the size of a dime, with two wires to it, and a quarter inch long pin in the center of it. Push the pin in firmly. (it will only move a little bit) Reassemble dryer. CLEAN OUT VENT AND CORRECT IMPROPER VENTING to prevent a repeat of the condition.

Posted on Jun 08, 2009

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Check the following areas to combat this issue. the most common problem spot will be a blown Thermal fuse.


1. Gas valve coils
Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

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Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. Igniter
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

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A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

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Check the following to address this issue.




1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

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Thermo Fuse is normally followed by the power source or on
the circuit board, Follow power source and you will find fuse.

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If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Power from the house
Heating element
Thermal fuse
Wiring
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.


This link will show teardown illustrations: Parts and more help available on other pages of the website.
http://www.repairclinic.com/0100_16.asp


Hope this helps.
Illeagle

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