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Our half circle shower doors meet at the top but there is a gap at the bottom. How do we fix that?

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: printing

try to do a system restore to a date when it was working ok, if still no go, then reinstall the printer driver.

Posted on Feb 14, 2008

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SOURCE: Bottom rail fit on 1500D door in 28" shower stall...

Mark, I'm having different problems with the same door. Try "filing" down the ends of the bottom rail, where it is contacting the curved corners. You might have to buy a metal file to accomplish this. Go heavy on the adhesive caulk on the underside of the bottom rail. Make sure the shower base is clean and dry. You might have to push down with your arms for several minutes to get the adhesive caulk to stick. Good luck, I have to go back to my folks this afternoon, because I can't get the door panel in w/o it scraping the top rail. Ugh.

Posted on Jan 25, 2009

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SOURCE: 07' mitsu. endeavor. what is

This sounds like the low tire pressure warning light. The tires have small sensors on the back side of each valve stem that monitor your tire pressure. I live in the northeast and when the temperature really drops I get the same light. Usually once you get rolling the friction of the tire on the road heats up the air in the tire causing it to expand to it's proper pressure. You may want to check your pressures to ensure that they are inflated properly.

Posted on Jan 31, 2009

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SOURCE: shower head and bathtub faucet both running when showering

Sounds like diverter valve which is your shower handle valve is bad take it apart and check out and replace it if possible because that transfer water to shower head.

Posted on May 05, 2010

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Replace shower door


Hi

You did not mention any additional information about your problem except replacing shower door.However use basic hand tools to complete the job.

Try this following general steps :-
1. Remove the doors by lifting up on one door at a time and then pulling each out. The top of the door has rollers attached to it, and the rollers rest on the inside of the top rail of the frame. Set the doors aside.
2. With your drill, remove the two screws on each end of the top rail, located on the inside of the shower frame. Then lift off the top rail of the shower frame.
3. Use your box knife to cut the caulk on the side and bottom rails of the shower frame. Shower frames are caulked on the outside where they meet with the walls and floor of the shower.
4. Use your drill to remove the screws from the side rails. There will be two screws on each rail, securing it to the shower stall. Then, take the rails out. Remove the screws from the bottom rail and take it out.
5. Use your tape measure to measure the old side rails, top rail and bottom rail. With a pencil, mark the lengths on each new rail. Use your hacksaw to cut each rail. Hold a side rail in the exact location where the old rail was located. With your pencil, mark the screw holes on the shower wall. The new shower frame screw holes may not line up with the old shower frame screw holes. Use your drill and 3/16-inch drill bit to drill new holes if necessary. If the shower walls are ceramic, use the concrete drill bit. If the shower walls are fiberglass, use the multipurpose 3/16-inch drill bit.
6. Insert the 3/16-inch anchors into the holes that you drilled. Put the side rail into position and insert the screws into the holes. Use your drill and Phillips head drill bit to tighten the screws. Place the bottom rail into position and mark the holes. Drill new holes if necessary and install the anchors. Insert only one screw at the end where you installed the first side rail. Lift up the loose end of the bottom rail and slide the second side rail into place. Mark the holes. Remove the side rail and drill the new holes using the 3/16-inch drill bit. Insert the anchors and put the side rail back into place. Insert the screws and tighten with your drill using the Phillips head drill bit.
7. Set the top rail directly onto the side rails. In each end of the top rail, insert the two self-drilling screws until the top is secured to the sides. Insert the tube of clear caulk into the caulking gun. Cut the end off of the tube with your box knife. Caulk the side rails and the bottom rail to the shower walls on the outside of the shower. Re-hang the shower doors by lifting each door and placing the rollers on the inside of the top rail.
Also giving you some links from where you can find a detailed information regarding replacing shower doors.
http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/how-to-replace-a-shower-door/index.html
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/intro/0,,214441,00.html
Thanks for contacting fixya.com
Please do get back to us for further query.

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1 Answer

My storefront aluminum glass door needs to be raised so the bottom of the door does not bush the theshold. There is a noticeable gap at the top


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Aside from that, you will need to mark the current door hinge screw pattern in relation to the door. Removing the door side hinge screws, set the door in place, shim the door to increasing elevation. Check the level of the door. Mark the new position of the door mount hinge side. Drill holes in the door where the new hinge screws will go. Open the door and attatch the hinge to the door. You will also need to move the door lock orifice. That should do it. Good luck!

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The door is installed by holding it at a 45 degree angle and lowering the top edge until it meets the window gap. It is snapped down then simply swings into place. Then it is pressed together until the plastic clips sap closed. After that the pieces like door handle, arm rest and speaker and grill cover are installed using screws. This is for both hard plastic and soft door panels. Just reverse this process.
Start by checking the arm rest. There should be several screws that attach it to the steel inner door panel. Depending on the door handle and if equipped, the speaker and cover.
Once your sure all that you have checked for all mounting screws then the next step it to pop the door panel off. The panels are attached using plastic clips that are attached to the panel. These clips will have a male type prong that snaps into a female receptacle on the steel inner door panel. Starting at the bottom place a wedge (like a scraper or wonderbar) between the gap of the panel and inner steel door and pry it apart. The best place to start is at the lower outside corner. Once you have a couple popped apart you can use your hand and pop the rest. Do this at the bottom and work your way across and up because the top lip where the panel and window gap meet are held differently. That section needs to be forced up.
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the plastic that you see overlapping the metal on the sides of the opening is in two parts, top and bottom, you can see the seem. the top is the smaller part, this plastic is also the drum support on the front. There are some glides on the top section that wear with time, after a few years they may need replacement. Perhaps these are worn out dropping the drum creating an uneven gap and catching. there is also a felt strip in there between the front of the dryer and the drum, keeping it back.
To view this remove the top by removing the 2 screws inside upper door opening holding top down. then lift top and if plastic console slide to left then pull away, metal -just pull straight. remove 2 screws holding front to cabinet sides. pull front forward. glides are visible on top. if not there or worn thru plastic replace upper plastic support

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1 Answer

Bottom rail fit on 1500D door in 28" shower stall...


Mark, I'm having different problems with the same door. Try "filing" down the ends of the bottom rail, where it is contacting the curved corners. You might have to buy a metal file to accomplish this. Go heavy on the adhesive caulk on the underside of the bottom rail. Make sure the shower base is clean and dry. You might have to push down with your arms for several minutes to get the adhesive caulk to stick. Good luck, I have to go back to my folks this afternoon, because I can't get the door panel in w/o it scraping the top rail. Ugh.

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1 Answer

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you can fix this problem by loostening the clamp screw and putting locktite sealer(you can purchase locktite from hd or lowes locktite is not the only product you can call a glass supplier and as for recommendation) Be sure to read the directions on the tube I use it to seal joints on refrigeration threaded parts. Make sure it will adhere to glass and metal also review the clean up solvent when you do this place a wood wedge at the bottom of the glass dooor and the threashold to support he weight until the sealer driese

Steps

1 Place wood wedge/block under door where non hinged side meets wall


2 losten top hinge(inspect bottom hinge to make sure it is snug and the glass dor is all the way into the hinge

3 You may have to remove the top hinge completely to get enough of the locktite on the metal and glass place the locktite on the hinge flat plate and the glass

4 recheck gap where door meets wall( I sometimes use paint stirs(wood) as shims to keep space between door and wall consistent

5 tighten top inge screws( you can put locktite on the screw threas also

6 Clean excess locktite and wait suggested time by instructions on tube


Good Luck!




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