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GE Monogram Refrigerator model ZISS360DMA - may need new control board?

I have a GE Monogram Refrigerator model ZISS360DMA. It has been acting strangely lately. Temperature is lower than it should be (set to temperature 40 degrees and it will cool it to 30 degrees). Recently multiple lights stopped working at once. Manual says they are 12 volt halogen bulbs so I removed them to replace but they actually work fine when connected to 12v source. I checked voltage in socket and found it to be 6 vAC instead of 12. I suspect I need a new control board WR55X11130. Anything I can do to confirm this before spending $200 on a new board?

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6 Suggested Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 531 Answers

SOURCE: Ge model PSC25MSTASS digital refrigerator setting

check for frost in the freezer back wall

Posted on Apr 01, 2009

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MNTECH
  • 1543 Answers

SOURCE: Clicking of Ge Model PDS22SBRBRSS; serial No; AHO45649

Replace the mother board. It is only a matter of time until you experience cooling issues.

Posted on May 26, 2009

Chadha Saab
  • 142 Answers

SOURCE: Clicking of Ge Model PDS22SBRBRSS; serial No; DL047209

IF the below mentioned information does not help, then contact a elextrical engineer worksman who can check the circuit board as it might also cause a short cicuit.

The inside of the freezer Self-defrosting refrigerators use a circulating fan to move the air through the freezer and refrigerator compartments. This fan runs whenever the unit is cooling. The fan is located in the freezer, as follows:

  • If the freezer is on top, the fan is on the back wall, near the top or bottom, in the center of the freezer.

  • If the freezer is on the bottom, the fan is on the back wall, near the top of the freezer.

  • If the freezer is on the left, the fan is on the back wall, halfway up or near the top.

Over time, the fan may become noisy--usually making a chirping or squealing sound, though it may make a loud groaning noise instead.

To find out if the fan is causing the noise, just open the freezer door and push in any fan/light switches. If the noise is louder when the door is open, the evaporator fan motor is the cause. You can't lubricate or repair this motor. You must replace it.

The outside back of the refrigerator There are three components on the outside back of the refrigerator that may become noisy: the compressor, the condenser fan motor (if self-defrosting), or the defrost timer (if self-defrosting).

  • The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. You can see it on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. It is usually black and has black or copper-colored tubes and various colored wires attached to it. If the compressor is the device making noise, there is probably no repair that will reduce the noise. You will have to replace it--which can be quite costly.

  • If the condenser fan is making noise, there may be a build-up of lint or other debris on the fan blade. The fan is located near the back of the machine, sometimes behind a thin panel. To clean it, first unplug the refrigerator, remove the thin panel, and use a soft bristle brush to clean it. If there is no lint build-up or debris on the blade, you will have to replace the motor.

  • The defrost timer is often located at the bottom of the refrigerator, near the front and behind the kick plate. Occasionally the electric motor inside the timer may become noisy. The timer must be replaced to solve this problem.

The bottom of the refrigerator Noises detected at the bottom of the refrigerator almost always originate from the back of the refrigerator. However, sometimes the drain pan under the refrigerator will rattle. You may need to tape the pan in place to stop a rattle. Also see the “Outside back of the refrigerator.”

Posted on May 31, 2009

  • 3600 Answers

SOURCE: whirlpool 6 sense model WSC5513- A+ X side by

The temp for the fridge is about right and -18 for the freezer is ok so check to see if the water filter is plugged, at 8 degrees Celsius is about 18 degrees fht. Which is freezing so the numbers don't add up. 26 degrees below zero on the freezer side is what you want if it that cold it could have frozen the water line.

Posted on Aug 20, 2009

woodchuck789
  • 4059 Answers

SOURCE: variance in freezer compartment temperature

How to check everything
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost heater, defrost thermostat. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control board.




Posted on Sep 04, 2009

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