Question about Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Great solution Catriver! My problem: drum rotated during wash, but did not drain. Checked the trap. Found 15 coins, 2 nails, keychain, and a piece of wire. Cleaned it out. Fixed the problem. My contribution: visually check for other problems, leaks, etc. I found a broken shock (strut, dampener). Tip for GE front load: buy the Frigidaire parts (same parts without the GE markup). The Frigidaire struts sold by the pair, with extra pin, and installation instructions. The instructions can aid in removing the broken parts. Also, watch out for those sites that sell the struts individually for the price of 2 struts. Chao!
Posted on Nov 22, 2006
suspect problem is that water is not draining fast enough so when machine gets to spin there is too much water present which gets thrown up thro thew soap drawer. check the filter. on many hotpoint filter is not obvious. at back, take off bottom panel. you will see a large dia hose going from bottom of machine to pump. undo this hose at the tub end and the filter is inside it. be carefull. if you havn\'t managed to drain, a lot of water will come out. if this doesn\'t work, get back to me if you want
Posted on May 26, 2007
SOURCE: detergent dispenser
As far as I am aware, there IS NO dispenser for bleach, you have to put bleach in drum before adding clothes and starting cycle. The far right compartment is only for "pre-wash" cycles, and if no pre-wash is selected, water will run through ALL compartments at the rinse stage..... Oshie
Posted on Jun 26, 2007
SOURCE: washing machine not spining
You may have a problem with the rotor position sensor. This sensor is situated on the motor windings and should really be replaced by a qualified tech.
Posted on Nov 04, 2007
If your washer is overfilling, check these:
Water-inlet valve A defect in the water-inlet valve may mean that it's no longer able to shut off completely when the electricity has been turned off to it. If this occurs, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub. In time, the water may accumulate substantially. If this happens, you need to replace the valve.
Water-level switch A defect--or an obstruction--in the water-level switch may mean that it can't tell the water to shut off. So the machine overflows. This switch senses the water level in the clothes tub. It's usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. You can either clear any obstruction in the tube or replace the water-level switch.
It's underfilling The water-level switch regulates your washer's fill volume. This switch is usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. If the switch is defective, it may prematurely signal the water to shut off. If so, you probably need to replace the water-level switch.
The water temperature is incorrect The temperature of the incoming water determines the temperature of the water in your washer. You get either hot, cold, or a mix of the hot and cold water that's currently available to the machine. So if the cold water that enters the machine is very cold--or if the hot water entering the machine is very hot--the warm water is affected.
If you live in a Northern climate, unless you adjust the hot and cold water taps that supply water to your washer, the warm water supplied to your washer is usually hotter during the summer months and colder during the winter months.
Posted on May 08, 2009
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