Question about Fisher and Paykel Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Press "end of cycle" for 5 seconds or more to clear the screen.
Check your exit hose spigot, it may be clogged. This is if your filter is all clean. There should be air for passage in the standpipe behind. Your hose should not fit airtight into the standpipe and neither too deep into it. Snaking out your standpipe would be good too.
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Posted on Dec 28, 2007
00110001 CODE 49 COLD VALVE FAULTY
1 FILTER IN HOSE AT TAP END CLOGGED OR FILTER IN VAVE AT MACHINE END OF HOSE CHECK THESE FIRST .
2 SOLENOID OPEN CIRCUIT OR BECOMING OPEN CIRCUIT WHEN HOT.
3 CONTROLLER NOT SUPPLYING VOLTAGE TO SOLENOID.
TRY THINGS IN THIS ORDER AND GOOD LUCK
Posted on Jul 03, 2008
It sounds like you have a leaky inlet valve assembly. The part number is 421029P and is easy to replace. You can get one here:
Posted on Apr 20, 2009
SOURCE: I have a fisher paykel
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
(no promises but try this!)
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.
(If these actions have not cured the problem, it could be the control board OR the main motor as motors will show weaknesses when commanded to spin- but I doubt it!)
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
Posted on Jun 04, 2011
see this causes and fix it.God bless you
This is the most common reason for the washer not spinning or agitating. This is easy to check. You will need to remove the switch, this varies with model type but the testing will be the same. When the lid is closed the switch should have continuity when the lid is opend the switch should have no continuity. If it differs replace the Lid Switch.
To check the timer you will need to refer to the wiring diagram or disassemble to access the motor. Check the leads from the timer to the motor when turned to a wash cycle this should have 120 volts. If not replace the Timer, if it does the timer is not the problem.
To check the motor you will need to disassemble the washer to access the motor. First you can check the motor windings, to do this remove the plug and connect ohmeter to terminals. Refer to the tech sheet or service manual for the proper reading. Check motor for shorts by connecting ohmeter to terminals and motor housing should have no continuity. Connect voltmeter to motor wire connector and check for voltage. You should have 120 volts, if you do and the motor does not run replace the motor. If it does not have power the problem is elsewhere.
If your washer is a belt drive type make sure the belt is tight. Check for black soot from belt wear. Replace if it has excessive wear or broke.
This is a fairly common problem with direct drive machines but inexpensive and easy to replace. The Motor Coupler transfers power from the motor to the transmission. The following video will walk you through the replacement of the Motor Coupler.
The transmission does not usually fail. To check this on a direct drive remove the motor and then turn tub inside. If it spins freely with no noise the problem is elsewhere. If it is noisy it needs replacing this is expensive and depending on the age of your machine you may not want to replace it. On a belt drive remove the belts and spin tub.
Posted on Sep 29, 2012
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