Question about Washing Machines
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: what is a f9 error?
"F09" is an Overflow Condition error. The following link explains how to diagnose the problem yourself:
Read through the information provided and check all the common sense things that you can easily eliminate, first. For more in-depth troubleshooting procedures, refer to the tech sheet that came with your washer. The tech sheet is located inside your appliance. To access, remove the lower toe panel under the door by removing the screws under the bottom front edge (you may have to prop the two front feet of the washer up for better access - a 2x4 works well for this). With the screws removed, the panel will drop down, then come off.
The tech sheet will either be located directly behind the toe panel, or affixed to one of the interior cabinet walls. The tech sheet includes troubleshooting tips, error code definitions, test points, diagnostics procedures and wiring diagrams. You will need to use the tech sheet to accurately locate and perform some of the steps I have outlined.
If you have questions about this repair, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Mar 24, 2010
F9 is an Overflow Condition error. If the Overflow contact on the pressure switch is closed for more than 60 seconds an Overflow condition will occur. In an Overflow condition, the Door may remain locked, and the Drain Pump may run constantly, even if PAUSE/CANCEL is pressed twice and the Display is cleared. Unplug the unit to service. You will need to check to following:
1. Check the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged or kinked.
2. Check Wire Harness connectors to the Drain Pump, Pressure Switch, and Central Control Unit (CCU).
3. Check/Clean Drain Pump Filter of foreign objects
4. Check for Drain Pump Failure.
5. Check the Inlet Valve for proper shut off
6. Check the Pressure switch for proper operation.
1. Check the drain hose by removing it from the standpipe and pull a vacuum on it with a shop vac. It could be that you have an obstruction somewhere. You may have to check the drain pump and the drain hose just prior to the drain pump as well. This is the hose that attaches to the bottom of the tub. This area can get clogged with debris
2. Unplug the washer and remove the kick plate and top panel. Check for any loose connections at the drain pump, pressure switch (located in the right rear of the machine), and the CCU (located in the center rear of the washer behind the wash tub). You may have a loose or dirty connection somewhere. If you remove any connectors, make sure you write down where they go. It's best to only remove ONE connector at a time when checking the CCU. On the pressure switch, make sure the air hose is still attached. This is usually a clear or black rubber hose. With the air hose off, loose, or leaking, the switch will not work and the tub will continue to try to fill. The pressure switch can be checked by removing the the large connector plug from the front of the CCU at the very LEFT. Readings across pins 1 to 2, 3 to 4, 4 to 5, and 4 to 6 should ALL read 0 ohms.
3. The drain pump. Remove the clean out cover on the pump and check for debris. Make sure you drain the water from the drain lines, pump and hoses PRIOR to removing the cover. Otherwise, you will have about a gallon or so of water to clean up. The shop vac method works great for this. If the pump is running and clear of foreign matter, the pump is probably not the problem. A meter reading across the pump motor windings at the connector plug should be about 15 ohms.
4. The inlet valve. If the inlet valve would fail in this manner, the tub would be trying to fill with water all the time and not shut off (even with the washer turned OFF). You need to ask yourself if you find standing water in the tub when not in use. Replace the water inlet valve if this is the case. Readings across the HOT and/or COLD solenoids should each read about 800 ohms.
5. The suds error. This occurs when air from too much detergent gets into the drain line. If you are using HE detergent (which is great, because on the newer models NOT using HE detergent voids your warranty), but HOW MUCH are you using? Some things to consider:
a. Do you have soft water? This can actually cause the soap to suds better making the need to cut back on how much you use.
b. Look at the detergent container. Is it double or triple concentrated? Some detergents are sold as extra concentrated which means you need to cut back on the amount you use. Not doing so can cause the water to over suds.
c. What size loads are you using the detergent in? Running small loads with the same amount of detergent can also cause over sudsing.
Rule out the simple common sense things first. If everything else checks out and your problem still persists, you may have a failed CCU or pressure switch
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating and POSITIVE TESTIMONIAL is appreciated for answering your FREE question
Posted on Oct 12, 2010
SOURCE: I have a Gorenje
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Sorry but I do not know your particular machine and this may sound crazy BUT I would suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters. The motor is unable to drain all of the water in the allotted time.
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and held in by a round cover/knob.
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!
Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
Posted on Mar 03, 2011
will not let you unlock the door because the machines full of
water?--the machine will not finish its cycle because the vacume switch
is still detecting water. The water will not drain because the pump is
blocked with something , probably a wire from your underwire bra, all you
can do is undo a pipe undernieth and let the water drain away and take
the pump to bits? There may be an inspection cap somewhere on the front
at the bottom.
Posted on May 15, 2011
Tips for a great answer:
Apr 27, 2015 | Washing Machines
Feb 19, 2011 | Washing Machines
Aug 29, 2010 | Washing Machines
Jul 29, 2010 | Washing Machines
Jan 26, 2008 | AEG Lavamat 88840 Front Load Washer
27 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!