I have a 1992 bounder mh ,6a6e atwood water heater.I recently replaced the coach batteries and main battery.My circuit board went bad,replaced along with eco and thermostat.My gas valve was rusty and...
First check thermal cut-off that is connected between incoming power wire and thermostat terminal. (located inside little clear plastic sleeve) Easiest way to do that is to remove it from the circuit temporarily. Just pull it off thermostat terminal, pull it apart from other end, and just connect female spade from incoming power wire directly to thermostat terminal. Then see if water heater ignites. If it does, and all works well, get new thermal cut-off. That cut-off is a safety feature in case of flame up at burner, it will shut off gas supply. It is not reset-able, just works once then needs to be replaced.
If that doesn't cure it, take a 12v test light, or a multimeter, and test for power at gas valve, when water heater is trying to ignite, or at ECO terminal where red wire runs from left ECO terminal to gas valve. If power is getting to gas valve, and you don't hear or feel it click, make sure ground connection is sufficient as well. If you have 10.5-13.5 volts to gas valve, and it's not opening and ground is good, then it's faulty and should be replaced. If it is clicking, (opening) but no gas coming through, you may have a plugged orifice on gas valve, provided you have cleaned burner tube of any spider webs or debris previously. If no voltage from red wire, start back tracking with meter or test light to other terminal on ECO, then to terminals on thermostat as well. You'll see how feed wire (short jumper) goes from thermostat, over to ECO. Remember, you will have to hold test light or meter probe at connection and have someone turn on switch to get a reading, which will only appear when it's trying to ignite. Let me know what you find.
Dec 05, 2010 |
RTO Atwood DSI-RV Water Heater-6 Gallon