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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Make sure all connections at alternator are attached. On some, the regulator is inside the computer and if bad, requires computer change.
Posted on Jun 26, 2009
Ck the charge rate at the battery posts. The proper range is 23.6 to 14.2v , The higher the voltage the llower the amps. Ie; at 13v Alternator is about 10% under capacity. @ 12v it is charging at max capacity. @ 15 v isthe alt is not charging but frying your battery. 9amps is ok if battery is fairly charged but at start up it should sit on 13-13.6 volts. for about 15 seconds the start climbing to less charge towards 14.2.
Posted on Oct 15, 2009
It does not take much to drain a battery e.g interior light left on over night etc. OK switch everything off, disconnect the negative lead and fit a multimeter between the battery terminal and detached lead. Set scale range to 1amp. It should read near zero. Methodically remove and reinsert the fuses one at a time noting any changes whilst each fuse is removed. By a process of elimination you will find the fuse that it responsible for draining battery current. This fuse corresponds to the electrical circuit within which there is some fault or short. The starter is unlikely to blame since once the car is running the alternator will more than compensate for any current loss. Just a thought the truck is getting on in years so it could be worth also checking some of the mechanical items that might upset the running if not now certainly in the future: Exhaust GAS Recirculation (EGR) valve and inlet, Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. All are located fairly close to the throttle body and are really easy to overhaul on a preventative maintenance basis. If you don't know what they are look them up on Youtube
Posted on May 02, 2010
This sounds like a faulty ground condition, the PTO clutch requires a ground provided by the chassis wiring harness to function and a ground for the ignition switch to kill fire to the coils. The other components work as they should because the voltage regulator, fuel shutoff solenoid and starting interlock system have their own grounds. The ignition switch in these mowers is a large round plastic switch not capable of grounding itself, it should have a black wire leading from the terminal marked "G" on the backside of the switch.
to diagnose a faulty ground you'll need a basic 12V test lamp:
Unplug the switch and and install a the test light clip on the positive terminal of the battery, probe the ground wire in the unplugged harness that corresponds with the "G" terminal only. If the ground is good the lamp in the test light will illuminate brightly, if poor or faulty the lamp will not light or be noticeably dim.
Further verification of a faulty ground or failed PTO switch can be tested at the PTO Clutch harness, turn the key on, engine NOT running, and pull the PTO Switch to the engage position, with the test light clipped onto the Negative Battery terminal or chassis, back probe the connected PTO clutch terminals. If the PTO switch is good and the ground is good then Only one terminal will illuminate the lamp, if both wires illuminate the lamp then the ground is faulty, if no lamp illumination then a loss of power is suspected, check the terminals on the PTO switch and Ignition switch for power.
Typical Ground termination locations are on the frame near the rear of the tractor frame, above the transmission, in the steering column area and near the solenoid, check for a loose or corroded eyelet terminal, broken wire, or a missing fastener in these areas.
Posted on Jul 04, 2010
SOURCE: keep asking pass code i
all of the bluetooths have universal codes. it is either 0000 or 1234. easy to find on website which is yours. also your carrier will have it. I looked it up and 0000 is your code.
Posted on Oct 15, 2010
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